Removing transmission from 1984 Longbed Pickup

Because my clutch is slipping I'm removing the transmission from my 1984 Longbed so I
can replace the clutch parts. I've looked at two different manuals (one online, one my
Toyota Truck 1984 Repair Manual. Both have descriptions for removing the trans, but
there are items that aren't covered or that I don't understand. Would someone give me a
complete description of this process?

Some of the questions I have:

1. what's a good common object to use to plug up the transmission output shaft opening
(after you remove the driveshaft)?
2. how many bolts/nuts are there holding the transmission to the engine(or to the
stiffener plate)?
3. the bar that crosses from one longitudinal frame member to the other (about the
middle of the trans). Does it need to be removed?
4. to replace the clutch, does the trans need to be dropped down to the ground and
pushed out of the way, or can it be pushed
backwards enough from it's original position.
5. do I need to drain the trans oil?
6. do I really need to drain the coolant from the engine and disconnect the upper
radiator hose?
7. do I really need to disconnect the accelerator torque rod at the firewall?

I'd like to hear any other comments that someone thinks might help me with this first
attempt(from this kind of car) at transmission removal.

Thanks,

jc

I worked on some toyota trucks like my 89 toyota standard bed 2
wheel drive pickup.
1. I don't plug the transmission output shaft because no oil leaks out
if you drain it first.

2. I don't know how many bolts there are but the top ones I get to by
tilting back the transmission and using a long extension with a 14mm
flex socket.
3. yes I would remove it since you need to tilt back the transmission
to remove it. Also sometimes I disconnect the exhaust pipe since it
keeps the engine/transmission from tilting back.

4. Yes I remove the trans completely because to sand the flywheel or
remove a bad pilot bushing takes access.
5. Yes drain the oil so it doesn't pour out the output shaft opening
when you tilt it back.
6 . Probably disconnect the radiator upper hose to allow engine/trans
to tilt back and drain radiator below upper hose level.
7.Probably to allow transmission to tilt back.

I had a hard time removing and replacing shift lever. Try this tip,
push back seat and remove carpet to pull over shift lever so you don't
have to fight carpet -or -remove bolts from underneath and let shifter
hang, don't lose those pesky washers that sit under shift cover in the
gasket and don't let them fall into transmission.

Thanks for the tips, that's just what I'm looking for.

jc


<edokamoto@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:1148831214.245649.120540@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> I worked on some toyota trucks like my 89 toyota standard bed 2
> wheel drive pickup.
> 1. I don't plug the transmission output shaft because no oil leaks out
> if you drain it first.
>
> 2. I don't know how many bolts there are but the top ones I get to by
> tilting back the transmission and using a long extension with a 14mm
> flex socket.
> 3. yes I would remove it since you need to tilt back the transmission
> to remove it. Also sometimes I disconnect the exhaust pipe since it
> keeps the engine/transmission from tilting back.
>
> 4. Yes I remove the trans completely because to sand the flywheel or
> remove a bad pilot bushing takes access.
> 5. Yes drain the oil so it doesn't pour out the output shaft opening
> when you tilt it back.
> 6 . Probably disconnect the radiator upper hose to allow engine/trans
> to tilt back and drain radiator below upper hose level.
> 7.Probably to allow transmission to tilt back.
>
> I had a hard time removing and replacing shift lever. Try this tip,
> push back seat and remove carpet to pull over shift lever so you don't
> have to fight carpet -or -remove bolts from underneath and let shifter
> hang, don't lose those pesky washers that sit under shift cover in the
> gasket and don't let them fall into transmission.
>[/color]

I used these instruction to do both my '85 2 WD PU and '90 4Rnr. Several
long extension bars (4') are needed for your socket wrench. A hydralic
transmission jack is needed for 4WD unitis - and make even the 2WD
replacement much easier. Drain trans and refill with synthetic fluid when
done.

[url]http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/maintenance/clutch/[/url]

"jbclem" <jbclem1@charter.net> wrote in message
news:QHdeg.970$qq3.934@fe04.lga...[color=blue]
> Because my clutch is slipping I'm removing the transmission from my 1984
> Longbed so I
> can replace the clutch parts. I've looked at two different manuals (one
> online, one my
> Toyota Truck 1984 Repair Manual. Both have descriptions for removing the
> trans, but
> there are items that aren't covered or that I don't understand. Would
> someone give me a
> complete description of this process?
>
> Some of the questions I have:
>
> 1. what's a good common object to use to plug up the transmission output
> shaft opening
> (after you remove the driveshaft)?
> 2. how many bolts/nuts are there holding the transmission to the
> engine(or to the
> stiffener plate)?
> 3. the bar that crosses from one longitudinal frame member to the other
> (about the
> middle of the trans). Does it need to be removed?
> 4. to replace the clutch, does the trans need to be dropped down to the
> ground and
> pushed out of the way, or can it be pushed
> backwards enough from it's original position.
> 5. do I need to drain the trans oil?
> 6. do I really need to drain the coolant from the engine and disconnect
> the upper
> radiator hose?
> 7. do I really need to disconnect the accelerator torque rod at the
> firewall?
>
> I'd like to hear any other comments that someone thinks might help me with
> this first
> attempt(from this kind of car) at transmission removal.
>
> Thanks,
>
> jc
>
>[/color]