Removing driveshaft from 1984 Toyota longbed

I'm in the process of removing my transmission, for a clutch job, and after unbolting
the driveshaft from the differential flange (4 bolts/nuts), and removing the two bolts
from the center bearing holder which is now loose...I'm finding that the driveshaft is
not exactly falling off into my lap.

I'm trying to push the rear part of the driveshaft off from the differential flange and
it is very tight, and won't budge. Some light taps with a hammer also aren't budging
it. Before I start whacking it I want to ask if this is normal (the tightness) and if I
need to disconnect the rear driveshaft also at it's front end(just after the center
bearing holder). There are also 4 nuts/bolts at the front end that connect it to the
propellor shaft (the part that ends up going into the rear of the transmission.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

jc

=====
=====
jbclem wrote:[color=blue]
> I'm in the process of removing my transmission, for a clutch job, and after unbolting
> the driveshaft from the differential flange (4 bolts/nuts), and removing the two bolts
> from the center bearing holder which is now loose...I'm finding that the driveshaft is
> not exactly falling off into my lap.
>
> I'm trying to push the rear part of the driveshaft off from the differential flange and
> it is very tight, and won't budge. Some light taps with a hammer also aren't budging
> it. Before I start whacking it I want to ask if this is normal (the tightness) and if I
> need to disconnect the rear driveshaft also at it's front end(just after the center
> bearing holder). There are also 4 nuts/bolts at the front end that connect it to the
> propellor shaft (the part that ends up going into the rear of the transmission.
>
> Any suggestions would be helpful.
>
> jc[/color]

========
========

If you're talking about where it bolts to the rear end......
WHACK the hell out of it on the outer edge of the flange.
I'ts not unusual to find one stuck.

I would suggest not pulling the 2 drive shaft sections apart.
(the front, from the back)

Unbolt the shaft at the tranny and drop it as a complete unit.

The shaft is splined where the 2 sections go togeather and
can be a mother to come apart after several years of service.
If the u-joints seem good, take the 2-piece shaft down as one
unit.



fact, not fiction.



~:~
MarshMonster
~tranny tech~

Thanks MM, that's the answer I was hoping for.

jc


"Marsh Monster" <MarshMonster2624@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1149017190.706872.288390@r44g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> =====
> =====
> jbclem wrote:[color=green]
> > I'm in the process of removing my transmission, for a clutch job, and after[/color][/color]
unbolting[color=blue][color=green]
> > the driveshaft from the differential flange (4 bolts/nuts), and removing the two[/color][/color]
bolts[color=blue][color=green]
> > from the center bearing holder which is now loose...I'm finding that the driveshaft[/color][/color]
is[color=blue][color=green]
> > not exactly falling off into my lap.
> >
> > I'm trying to push the rear part of the driveshaft off from the differential flange[/color][/color]
and[color=blue][color=green]
> > it is very tight, and won't budge. Some light taps with a hammer also aren't[/color][/color]
budging[color=blue][color=green]
> > it. Before I start whacking it I want to ask if this is normal (the tightness) and[/color][/color]
if I[color=blue][color=green]
> > need to disconnect the rear driveshaft also at it's front end(just after the center
> > bearing holder). There are also 4 nuts/bolts at the front end that connect it to[/color][/color]
the[color=blue][color=green]
> > propellor shaft (the part that ends up going into the rear of the transmission.
> >
> > Any suggestions would be helpful.
> >
> > jc[/color]
>
> ========
> ========
>
> If you're talking about where it bolts to the rear end......
> WHACK the hell out of it on the outer edge of the flange.
> I'ts not unusual to find one stuck.
>
> I would suggest not pulling the 2 drive shaft sections apart.
> (the front, from the back)
>
> Unbolt the shaft at the tranny and drop it as a complete unit.
>
> The shaft is splined where the 2 sections go togeather and
> can be a mother to come apart after several years of service.
> If the u-joints seem good, take the 2-piece shaft down as one
> unit.
>
>
>
> fact, not fiction.
>
>
>
> ~:~
> MarshMonster
> ~tranny tech~
>[/color]

jbclem wrote:[color=blue]
> Thanks MM, that's the answer I was hoping for.
>
> jc
>[/color]
=====
=====

No prob.................
y/w



and,
let us know how it turns out.


~:~
Marsh Monster
~:~

Well, the driveshaft came out easily once I broke the surface tension (rust) with a few
whacks to the rear flange. I have the impression this is the first time out for the
shaft (180,000 miles) although I'm not sure the original clutch would have lasted that
long.

At any rate, now on to removing the transmission, the pickup's on jack stands...not a
lot of room under there.

Do you know if the exhaust pipe needs to be removed...I'm removing the bracket that
holds it to the side of the transmission, but there isn't a lot of clearance there.

jc



"Marsh Monster" <MarshMonster2624@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1149212081.914643.284140@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>
> jbclem wrote:[color=green]
> > Thanks MM, that's the answer I was hoping for.
> >
> > jc
> >[/color]
> =====
> =====
>
> No prob.................
> y/w
>
>
>
> and,
> let us know how it turns out.
>
>
> ~:~
> Marsh Monster
> ~:~
>[/color]

jbclem wrote:[color=blue]
> Well, the driveshaft came out easily once I broke the surface tension (rust) with a few
> whacks to the rear flange. I have the impression this is the first time out for the
> shaft (180,000 miles) although I'm not sure the original clutch would have lasted that
> long.
>
> At any rate, now on to removing the transmission, the pickup's on jack stands...not a
> lot of room under there.
>
> Do you know if the exhaust pipe needs to be removed...I'm removing the bracket that
> holds it to the side of the transmission, but there isn't a lot of clearance there.
>
> jc
>[/color]
=======
=======

JC,
Leave the exhaust alone!!!!

It's a bit of wiggle going back in with the unit, but it's definately
doable, and those flange nuts are VERY likely going to strip
on you if you go messing with them. Worse case scenario
the studs will pull out of the flange and wipe out the threads
in the flange in the process. I don't even consider dropping the
exhaust on those units anymore. The time it takes to repair
the stripped manifold or the stripped studs isn't worth it.
True, it's a tight fit. Trust me, the unit will come down
and go back in fairly simply with the exhaust still on the truck.
Little to no cussing needed. Fact, not Fiction.

Some unsolicited advise........?.........
DO NOT, repeat do not, let the weight of the tranny hang once
you get all the bellhousing bolts out and start coming back off the
clutch with the tranny. The front shaft will be supporting the weight
and I've seen them bent because of it.


Do yerself a favor....you're going to need at least enough room
under that thing to lay on your side and maneuver around.
A minimum!! If you don't want to be cussing the entire process.
Going back in (stabbing the unit) is going to prove that.
Fact, not Fiction. So...if you can't get under there now and
roll your body all the way over without bang'n something,
fix the situation. You'll be glad you did.



any whoooo......


keep us posted



~:~
marsh
~sips his mushroom tea.....mmmm......good stuff~
~:~

Marsh, thanks for the unsolicited advice...that's just what I need to know. Can you
tell me how heavy the transmission is? Can I pick it up? If I need to lie underneath
and push it into place with my arms can I do this or is it too heavy. I've done this
begore with VW transmissions, so that's my reference point. Also, how many nuts/bolts
are there holding the transmission to the engine. I see two on the bottom, two more a
few inches above these two, and the two that hold the starter in place. That's six...if
there are more higher up on the bell housing I haven't seen them.

jc






Marsh Monster" <MarshMonster2624@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1149305929.924789.42480@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>
> jbclem wrote:[color=green]
> > Well, the driveshaft came out easily once I broke the surface tension (rust) with a[/color][/color]
few[color=blue][color=green]
> > whacks to the rear flange. I have the impression this is the first time out for the
> > shaft (180,000 miles) although I'm not sure the original clutch would have lasted[/color][/color]
that[color=blue][color=green]
> > long.
> >
> > At any rate, now on to removing the transmission, the pickup's on jack stands...not[/color][/color]
a[color=blue][color=green]
> > lot of room under there.
> >
> > Do you know if the exhaust pipe needs to be removed...I'm removing the bracket that
> > holds it to the side of the transmission, but there isn't a lot of clearance there.
> >
> > jc
> >[/color]
> =======
> =======
>
> JC,
> Leave the exhaust alone!!!!
>
> It's a bit of wiggle going back in with the unit, but it's definately
> doable, and those flange nuts are VERY likely going to strip
> on you if you go messing with them. Worse case scenario
> the studs will pull out of the flange and wipe out the threads
> in the flange in the process. I don't even consider dropping the
> exhaust on those units anymore. The time it takes to repair
> the stripped manifold or the stripped studs isn't worth it.
> True, it's a tight fit. Trust me, the unit will come down
> and go back in fairly simply with the exhaust still on the truck.
> Little to no cussing needed. Fact, not Fiction.
>
> Some unsolicited advise........?.........
> DO NOT, repeat do not, let the weight of the tranny hang once
> you get all the bellhousing bolts out and start coming back off the
> clutch with the tranny. The front shaft will be supporting the weight
> and I've seen them bent because of it.
>
>
> Do yerself a favor....you're going to need at least enough room
> under that thing to lay on your side and maneuver around.
> A minimum!! If you don't want to be cussing the entire process.
> Going back in (stabbing the unit) is going to prove that.
> Fact, not Fiction. So...if you can't get under there now and
> roll your body all the way over without bang'n something,
> fix the situation. You'll be glad you did.
>
>
>
> any whoooo......
>
>
> keep us posted
>
>
>
> ~:~
> marsh
> ~sips his mushroom tea.....mmmm......good stuff~
> ~:~
>[/color]

jbclem wrote:[color=blue]
> Marsh, thanks for the unsolicited advice...that's just what I need to know. Can you
> tell me how heavy the transmission is? Can I pick it up? If I need to lie underneath
> and push it into place with my arms can I do this or is it too heavy. I've done this
> begore with VW transmissions, so that's my reference point. Also, how many nuts/bolts
> are there holding the transmission to the engine. I see two on the bottom, two more a
> few inches above these two, and the two that hold the starter in place. That's six...if
> there are more higher up on the bell housing I haven't seen them.
>[/color]
==========
==========

It is doable on yer back "pressing it" in.

As far as if YOU can, well, I'd suggest trying it next to the truck
once
to be sure. And, you WILL need a helper with some stamina with you
to keep it level going in. (remember my other post about letting the
weight
hang)

It is doable if there's 2 of you there handling it.

There are 2 tranny bolts on the very top of the bellhousing. There's
a bit of a trick to making these easy. Take the tranny crossmember
off, then let the tranny hang down just enough to get onto the 2 top
bolts with a long extension and socket. If the tranny hasn't been out
before the bolts are going to be tight as hell.
A suggestion. Sometimes those bolts are so tight that I have to
use a 1/2" breaker bar on them. I get my extension and socket on the
bolt, then stick on the breaker bar, then...........
I use a 12" long, 1/2" extension with a socket on it. Use this to
add
leverage to your breaker bar. Think of it as an extension handle that
you can slide onto the breaker bar. (yes, a piece of pipe will work)
BE CAREFULL when busting those bolts loose if they're that tight.
I've gotten several existing scars on my knuckles from those same
units. Not all trucks are that tight. But, if this is the first time
it's
been out, they prob'ly are.


You should have 6 bellhousing bolts going into the eng. block.

2 starter bolts.

There should be 2 bolts on the front/lower section holding brackets on
either side of the tranny. (looking at the lower bottom, front of
tranny)
These 2 bolts should be going through a metal dust cover.



The big trick is the top 2 bolts, and using enough extension to get to
them,
and using enough length on the handle of the breaker bar to pull on.


Be advised, I've broken my big ass 1/2" Snap-On ratchet several times
over
the years on these same bolts. And it's a long, beefy mother.
So......use a 3/8 taiwan at yer own risk, but remember when yer pouring

that good liqour on that gashing wound........

marsh told yuh so.

lol



let us know how it works out.

~:~
marsh
~sips his crownroyal.....counts the scars on his knuckles~
~:~

Marsh,

When you say let the transmission hang down you're talking about after the rear trans
mount bracket has been removed, and is there anything on the engine that I should
disconnect since the engine will tilt up a bit when the trans is hanging down.

jc




"Marsh Monster" <MarshMonster2624@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1149639439.323486.258660@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
>
> jbclem wrote:[color=green]
> > Marsh, thanks for the unsolicited advice...that's just what I need to know. Can you
> > tell me how heavy the transmission is? Can I pick it up? If I need to lie[/color][/color]
underneath[color=blue][color=green]
> > and push it into place with my arms can I do this or is it too heavy. I've done[/color][/color]
this[color=blue][color=green]
> > begore with VW transmissions, so that's my reference point. Also, how many[/color][/color]
nuts/bolts[color=blue][color=green]
> > are there holding the transmission to the engine. I see two on the bottom, two more[/color][/color]
a[color=blue][color=green]
> > few inches above these two, and the two that hold the starter in place. That's[/color][/color]
six...if[color=blue][color=green]
> > there are more higher up on the bell housing I haven't seen them.
> >[/color]
> ==========
> ==========
>
> It is doable on yer back "pressing it" in.
>
> As far as if YOU can, well, I'd suggest trying it next to the truck
> once
> to be sure. And, you WILL need a helper with some stamina with you
> to keep it level going in. (remember my other post about letting the
> weight
> hang)
>
> It is doable if there's 2 of you there handling it.
>
> There are 2 tranny bolts on the very top of the bellhousing. There's
> a bit of a trick to making these easy. Take the tranny crossmember
> off, then let the tranny hang down just enough to get onto the 2 top
> bolts with a long extension and socket. If the tranny hasn't been out
> before the bolts are going to be tight as hell.
> A suggestion. Sometimes those bolts are so tight that I have to
> use a 1/2" breaker bar on them. I get my extension and socket on the
> bolt, then stick on the breaker bar, then...........
> I use a 12" long, 1/2" extension with a socket on it. Use this to
> add
> leverage to your breaker bar. Think of it as an extension handle that
> you can slide onto the breaker bar. (yes, a piece of pipe will work)
> BE CAREFULL when busting those bolts loose if they're that tight.
> I've gotten several existing scars on my knuckles from those same
> units. Not all trucks are that tight. But, if this is the first time
> it's
> been out, they prob'ly are.
>
>
> You should have 6 bellhousing bolts going into the eng. block.
>
> 2 starter bolts.
>
> There should be 2 bolts on the front/lower section holding brackets on
> either side of the tranny. (looking at the lower bottom, front of
> tranny)
> These 2 bolts should be going through a metal dust cover.
>
>
>
> The big trick is the top 2 bolts, and using enough extension to get to
> them,
> and using enough length on the handle of the breaker bar to pull on.
>
>
> Be advised, I've broken my big ass 1/2" Snap-On ratchet several times
> over
> the years on these same bolts. And it's a long, beefy mother.
> So......use a 3/8 taiwan at yer own risk, but remember when yer pouring
>
> that good liqour on that gashing wound........
>
> marsh told yuh so.
>
> lol
>
>
>
> let us know how it works out.
>
> ~:~
> marsh
> ~sips his crownroyal.....counts the scars on his knuckles~
> ~:~
>[/color]

=====
=====
jbclem wrote:[color=blue]
> Marsh,
>
> When you say let the transmission hang down you're talking about after the rear trans
> mount bracket has been removed, and is there anything on the engine that I should
> disconnect since the engine will tilt up a bit when the trans is hanging down.
>
> jc
>[/color]
======
======
Sorry JC,
I've been off the rooms for a couple days, just saw your post.


any whooooo.......
if it's not to late, and the fan shroud ain't
busted...................

yeah, just let the thing hang down low enough to get to the upper bell
bolts. The fan clutch will hit the fan shroud if you let the thing
hang
too far. Not to mention there's a slight possibility of busting a
heater
hose...maybe.

any whooo........
I've never had either one of those go bad for me, but like I say,
just let it come down far enough to get to the two top bolts.
And.....yes, AFTER you take the rear (transmission) crossmember
off the truck.

There's not a big worry on busting anything as long as your carefull.
You'll be able to get on the two top bell bolts long before you're at
the
point of rupturing, busting, bangind, bending, or other wise fubarring
anything.



hopefully the info wasn't too late......


a last note........
don't forget the original advise of not letting the weight of the
tranny
hang once you've started coming back with the unit. Don't wanna
bend that input shaft.





let us know.....

~:~
marsh
~sips his crownroyal, takes a hit off his doobie........~
~:~

Hi Marsh,

Hope you're still tuned in.

I have the transmission out, and you were right...one of the upper bolts was a real
bitch, I almost didn't get it out. Now I have the clutch and the flywheel off and I
have a few more questions.

When I remove the real oil seal retainer ( to replace the seal), is there a gasket of
any kind for the retainer...the manual doesn't show anything but it also doesn't say
much about this. It also says very little about the clutch release bearing and the
fork. There are two flimsy clips on the release bearing hub and they were each oriented
in a different direction, but the drawing in the manual shows them both facing the same
way. Does it matter at all which direction they point? And the fork itself doesn't
seem to be attached to anything, except where it slips into the clips on the hub. On
the other end of the fork it goes through the hole in the side of the transmission and
it seems that only the rubber boot is securing it and keeping it from being completely
loose...does this sound right?

One other thing, for the clutch cover there is a split in the year, up to 7/84 and 8/84
and later. My car has a 7/84 production date but I was send the later clutch cover(8/84
and up). I wonder if you know what the difference is, the old clutch cover seems to be
about the same size as the new (but later) one...it looks a bit different but it is a
difference brand so there are probably some manufacturing differences. Both the disk
and the release bearing are the same for the earlier and later split, so the only other
things that could have changed are the flywheel or the fork. Or does it matter, will
the later clutch cover work in place of the earlier one?

I appreciate all your advice, it's been very helpful.

jc




"Marsh Monster" <MarshMonster2624@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1149903851.228818.320750@f6g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> =====
> =====
> jbclem wrote:[color=green]
> > Marsh,
> >
> > When you say let the transmission hang down you're talking about after the rear[/color][/color]
trans[color=blue][color=green]
> > mount bracket has been removed, and is there anything on the engine that I should
> > disconnect since the engine will tilt up a bit when the trans is hanging down.
> >
> > jc
> >[/color]
> ======
> ======
> Sorry JC,
> I've been off the rooms for a couple days, just saw your post.
>
>
> any whooooo.......
> if it's not to late, and the fan shroud ain't
> busted...................
>
> yeah, just let the thing hang down low enough to get to the upper bell
> bolts. The fan clutch will hit the fan shroud if you let the thing
> hang
> too far. Not to mention there's a slight possibility of busting a
> heater
> hose...maybe.
>
> any whooo........
> I've never had either one of those go bad for me, but like I say,
> just let it come down far enough to get to the two top bolts.
> And.....yes, AFTER you take the rear (transmission) crossmember
> off the truck.
>
> There's not a big worry on busting anything as long as your carefull.
> You'll be able to get on the two top bell bolts long before you're at
> the
> point of rupturing, busting, bangind, bending, or other wise fubarring
> anything.
>
>
>
> hopefully the info wasn't too late......
>
>
> a last note........
> don't forget the original advise of not letting the weight of the
> tranny
> hang once you've started coming back with the unit. Don't wanna
> bend that input shaft.
>
>
>
>
>
> let us know.....
>
> ~:~
> marsh
> ~sips his crownroyal, takes a hit off his doobie........~
> ~:~
>[/color]

The early clutch disc and flywheel may be smaller.. I threw a 22re in my
94' P/U from an 87' Pickup, and just happened to have a brand new clutch
from the 94' motor lying around, so i through the clutch from the 94' onto
the 87 motor and it was quite a bit larger then the clutch that was
originally on the 87' It works perfect.. So in answering you question (will
the later clutch cover work in place of the earlier one?) The Pressure Plate
inside the cover may be a different size.. If the pressure Plate is the
same diameter,and it bolts right up... Use it..



Ian

"jbclem" <jbclem1@charter.net> wrote in message
news:TWajg.900$cV.523@fe04.lga...[color=blue]
> Hi Marsh,
>
> Hope you're still tuned in.
>
> I have the transmission out, and you were right...one of the upper bolts[/color]
was a real[color=blue]
> bitch, I almost didn't get it out. Now I have the clutch and the flywheel[/color]
off and I[color=blue]
> have a few more questions.
>
> When I remove the real oil seal retainer ( to replace the seal), is there[/color]
a gasket of[color=blue]
> any kind for the retainer...the manual doesn't show anything but it also[/color]
doesn't say[color=blue]
> much about this. It also says very little about the clutch release[/color]
bearing and the[color=blue]
> fork. There are two flimsy clips on the release bearing hub and they were[/color]
each oriented[color=blue]
> in a different direction, but the drawing in the manual shows them both[/color]
facing the same[color=blue]
> way. Does it matter at all which direction they point? And the fork[/color]
itself doesn't[color=blue]
> seem to be attached to anything, except where it slips into the clips on[/color]
the hub. On[color=blue]
> the other end of the fork it goes through the hole in the side of the[/color]
transmission and[color=blue]
> it seems that only the rubber boot is securing it and keeping it from[/color]
being completely[color=blue]
> loose...does this sound right?
>
> One other thing, for the clutch cover there is a split in the year, up to[/color]
7/84 and 8/84[color=blue]
> and later. My car has a 7/84 production date but I was send the later[/color]
clutch cover(8/84[color=blue]
> and up). I wonder if you know what the difference is, the old clutch[/color]
cover seems to be[color=blue]
> about the same size as the new (but later) one...it looks a bit different[/color]
but it is a[color=blue]
> difference brand so there are probably some manufacturing differences.[/color]
Both the disk[color=blue]
> and the release bearing are the same for the earlier and later split, so[/color]
the only other[color=blue]
> things that could have changed are the flywheel or the fork. Or does it[/color]
matter, will[color=blue]
> the later clutch cover work in place of the earlier one?
>
> I appreciate all your advice, it's been very helpful.
>
> jc
>
>
>
>
> "Marsh Monster" <MarshMonster2624@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:1149903851.228818.320750@f6g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...[color=green]
> > =====
> > =====
> > jbclem wrote:[color=darkred]
> > > Marsh,
> > >
> > > When you say let the transmission hang down you're talking about after[/color][/color][/color]
the rear[color=blue]
> trans[color=green][color=darkred]
> > > mount bracket has been removed, and is there anything on the engine[/color][/color][/color]
that I should[color=blue][color=green][color=darkred]
> > > disconnect since the engine will tilt up a bit when the trans is[/color][/color][/color]
hanging down.[color=blue][color=green][color=darkred]
> > >
> > > jc
> > >[/color]
> > ======
> > ======
> > Sorry JC,
> > I've been off the rooms for a couple days, just saw your post.
> >
> >
> > any whooooo.......
> > if it's not to late, and the fan shroud ain't
> > busted...................
> >
> > yeah, just let the thing hang down low enough to get to the upper bell
> > bolts. The fan clutch will hit the fan shroud if you let the thing
> > hang
> > too far. Not to mention there's a slight possibility of busting a
> > heater
> > hose...maybe.
> >
> > any whooo........
> > I've never had either one of those go bad for me, but like I say,
> > just let it come down far enough to get to the two top bolts.
> > And.....yes, AFTER you take the rear (transmission) crossmember
> > off the truck.
> >
> > There's not a big worry on busting anything as long as your carefull.
> > You'll be able to get on the two top bell bolts long before you're at
> > the
> > point of rupturing, busting, bangind, bending, or other wise fubarring
> > anything.
> >
> >
> >
> > hopefully the info wasn't too late......
> >
> >
> > a last note........
> > don't forget the original advise of not letting the weight of the
> > tranny
> > hang once you've started coming back with the unit. Don't wanna
> > bend that input shaft.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > let us know.....
> >
> > ~:~
> > marsh
> > ~sips his crownroyal, takes a hit off his doobie........~
> > ~:~
> >[/color]
>
>[/color]