86 1 Ton - Axle Replacement

Hey There,

Can someone give me a pointer? I spun out and bent an axle awhile back
(still drivable though). I picked up an axle from an 86 pickup at a
salvage place, but the backing plate doesn't match. I think it came
out of some other 86 model (it was picked clean so hard to tell what
exactly it was, and I didn't get the VIN).

Does anyone know if the axles are interchangeable on all the '86
pickups? If so, then I'll just get a machine shop to press out the old
axle and put in the new with a new bearing on the backing plate
currently on the pickup.

Thanks in advance,
Kevin

My instinct is that the 1-ton axle will be much bigger (stouter) than the
standard axle. The weight capacity of a vehicle is determined by the axles.
Well, there is some other stuff too, but there is no point in using most of
the other stuff if light duty axles are used.




"Kevin" <kreynolds@aviagen.com> wrote in message
news:1153359225.170913.254590@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...[color=blue]
> Hey There,
>
> Can someone give me a pointer? I spun out and bent an axle awhile back
> (still drivable though). I picked up an axle from an 86 pickup at a
> salvage place, but the backing plate doesn't match. I think it came
> out of some other 86 model (it was picked clean so hard to tell what
> exactly it was, and I didn't get the VIN).
>
> Does anyone know if the axles are interchangeable on all the '86
> pickups? If so, then I'll just get a machine shop to press out the old
> axle and put in the new with a new bearing on the backing plate
> currently on the pickup.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Kevin
>[/color]

On Thu, 20 Jul 2006 06:00:17 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote:
[color=blue]
>My instinct is that the 1-ton axle will be much bigger (stouter) than the
>standard axle. The weight capacity of a vehicle is determined by the axles.
>Well, there is some other stuff too, but there is no point in using most of
>the other stuff if light duty axles are used.
>[/color]


There a 4 basic things that you need to deal with in axle swaps. The
first is the spacing between and style of spring pad on axle housing
(this is a deal killer if you do not have a torch and a welder and you
want same overall axle wide drum to drum too) The second is the pinion
yoke that you need to match to drive shaft (not a real deal killer
because you can have something fabbed up a a drive shaft shop need be)
The third is brake size because if you are pucking a 3/4 ton axle in a
1/2 the wheel cylinders will not be matched to master cylinder for
proper braking performance (again not a deal killer as you can change
master cylinder) Last is wheel lug pattern because you want those to
match those some run them mixed front to rear. So the summary is if
you meet the above guideline it does not matter were the axle comes
from, (Ford, Chevy or Dodge) it can be made to work but in brand are
the easiest.
-----------------
The SnoMan
[url]www.thesnoman.com[/url]

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:jqcvb2piuhqud2tu57cmqn49bdasuf3vtr@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Thu, 20 Jul 2006 06:00:17 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote:
>[color=green]
>>My instinct is that the 1-ton axle will be much bigger (stouter) than the
>>standard axle. The weight capacity of a vehicle is determined by the
>>axles.
>>Well, there is some other stuff too, but there is no point in using most
>>of
>>the other stuff if light duty axles are used.
>>[/color]
>
>
> There a 4 basic things that you need to deal with in axle swaps. The
> first is the spacing between and style of spring pad on axle housing
> (this is a deal killer if you do not have a torch and a welder and you
> want same overall axle wide drum to drum too) The second is the pinion
> yoke that you need to match to drive shaft (not a real deal killer
> because you can have something fabbed up a a drive shaft shop need be)
> The third is brake size because if you are pucking a 3/4 ton axle in a
> 1/2 the wheel cylinders will not be matched to master cylinder for
> proper braking performance (again not a deal killer as you can change
> master cylinder) Last is wheel lug pattern because you want those to
> match those some run them mixed front to rear. So the summary is if
> you meet the above guideline it does not matter were the axle comes
> from, (Ford, Chevy or Dodge) it can be made to work but in brand are
> the easiest.
> -----------------
> The SnoMan[/color]


One, you posted to the wrong person. Two, the OP bought an axle shaft that
appears to not fit.







[color=blue]
> [url]www.thesnoman.com[/url][/color]