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Re: how to tell if u have carbon
Noon-Air wrote:[color=blue]
> "Wolfgang" <NOwolfXgang_dieterxSPAM@NOXcox.netNOT> wrote in message
> news:WJUgh.113581$G87.43909@newsfe14.lga...[color=green]
>> Its not caused by cheap gas or a dirty filter - its more likely engine
>> wear or just normal engine tollerances. Unless its excessive (and then
>> you probably need a rebuild anyhow) I'm not sure its worth the money. In
>> my youth the solution was to take it out on the highway and blow the
>> carbon out --- the potential ticket could outweight the cost of BG service
>> though.[/color]
>
> I normally did this with a tankfull of hi-test gasohol (Amoco 95 octane)
> with an extra gallon of methanol thrown in for good measure :-)
>[color=green]
>> "Noon-Air" <Noon-Air@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:1qadnbK8J7tTkx_YnZ2dnUVZ_tW3nZ2d@comcast.com...[color=darkred]
>>> "Wolfgang" <NOwolfXgang_dieterxSPAM@NOXcox.netNOT> wrote in message
>>> news:immgh.5813$a14.1750@newsfe24.lga...
>>>> If car runs on after being turned off when its been run for some time
>>>> (and is real hot). BG Products has a device that cleans the combustion
>>>> chambers - advertised by Pat Goss all the time.
>>> Why not just run good gas, and keep a clean air filter in it???[/color][/color][/color]
Pre-cataylic converter days, we'd run a little ATF through the carb and
let it kill the engine. After letting it sit overnight, we'd clean the
plugs (usually) then start it up. Lots of smoke from the softened carbon
and ATF. There was also a product called Marvel Mystery Oil, an upper
cylinder lubricant.
[url]http://www.joesherlock.com/Motor-Oil.html[/url]
[url]http://www.autobarn.net/chmm013.html[/url]
--
Tom - Vista, CA
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