oil change on Tundra

Hi,
I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil
filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The
filter is right above the engine skid plate.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks, Al
__
Arold "Al" Green

On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 00:26:44 GMT, "Arold \"Al\" Green"
<aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> found these unused words floating about:
[color=blue]
>Hi,
>I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil
>filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The
>filter is right above the engine skid plate.
>Any suggestions appreciated.
>Thanks, Al
>__
>Arold "Al" Green[/color]

Use one of the 'JAWS' type of filter removal tools. You can then tilt the
filter so that very little oil escapes and slide it towards the tranny.

That skid plate also removes moderately easily, if you should choose.

Its best to remove the skid plate. A little bit of a pain, but makes it so
much easier once its out of the way.


"Sir F. A. Rien" <jaSPAMc@gbr.online.com> wrote in message
news:pql6o216ql4siv71pbherfetn7nrm7laeu@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 00:26:44 GMT, "Arold \"Al\" Green"
> <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> found these unused words floating about:
>[color=green]
>>Hi,
>>I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil
>>filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The
>>filter is right above the engine skid plate.
>>Any suggestions appreciated.
>>Thanks, Al
>>__
>>Arold "Al" Green[/color]
>
> Use one of the 'JAWS' type of filter removal tools. You can then tilt the
> filter so that very little oil escapes and slide it towards the tranny.
>
> That skid plate also removes moderately easily, if you should choose.
>[/color]

THe filter on my '05 is on top of the engine

"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> wrote in message
news:74f6o29sseoh5dl86qqbpi53qdpoblj5g4@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> Hi,
> I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil
> filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The
> filter is right above the engine skid plate.
> Any suggestions appreciated.
> Thanks, Al
> __
> Arold "Al" Green[/color]

On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 21:26:11 -0600, "Noon-Air" <Noon-Air@comcast.net>
wrote:
[color=blue]
>THe filter on my '05 is on top of the engine[/color]

They did that with the Tacoma, as well! <G>

"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> didst type:
[color=blue]
> Hi,
> I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil
> filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The
> filter is right above the engine skid plate.
> Any suggestions appreciated.[/color]

Simply remove the skid plate. There are two catch fingers in the front that
will keep it from dropping when the 3 front bolts are removed so do them
first. Then, while holding up the rear of the plate, remove the back two.
To get the fingers to release, scoot the plate a little forward, up and the
back to remove. Once off, the filter is a cinch to replace and what little
mess drips on the frame can be easily wiped off.

Blah

"blah" <blah@blah.blah> wrote:
[color=blue]
>"Arold "Al" Green" <aroldg@spamlessmchsi.com> didst type:
>[color=green]
>> Hi,
>> I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil
>> filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The
>> filter is right above the engine skid plate.
>> Any suggestions appreciated.[/color]
>
>Simply remove the skid plate. There are two catch fingers in the front that
>will keep it from dropping when the 3 front bolts are removed so do them
>first. Then, while holding up the rear of the plate, remove the back two.
>To get the fingers to release, scoot the plate a little forward, up and the
>back to remove. Once off, the filter is a cinch to replace and what little
>mess drips on the frame can be easily wiped off.
>
>Blah
>[/color]
Thanks for all the responses. Remove the skid plate seems to be the
best choice.
Al
__
Arold "Al" Green

Arold "Al" Green wrote:[color=blue]
> Hi,
> I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil
> filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The
> filter is right above the engine skid plate.
> Any suggestions appreciated.
> Thanks, Al
> __
> Arold "Al" Green[/color]
Some folks hold a garbage bag under the filter and catch the oil
drips. Other folks cut the top off 2 litre pop bottle so it fits
under the filter and catch the drips in that. I remove the skid
plate. Changing the oil every 5000 miles makes it not such a big deal.


Ken

Arold "Al" Green wrote:[color=blue]
> Hi,
> I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil
> filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The
> filter is right above the engine skid plate.
> Any suggestions appreciated.
> Thanks, Al
> __
> Arold "Al" Green[/color]

Filter Relocation Kit?? I've been thinking about doing one that brings
it up to the firewall on the passenger side, but the oil lines are long
and 'up higher', never was sure if that was a good idea or not...

RedForeman

RedForeman wrote:[color=blue]
>
> Filter Relocation Kit?? I've been thinking about doing one that brings
> it up to the firewall on the passenger side, but the oil lines are long
> and 'up higher', never was sure if that was a good idea or not...[/color]

Altering the oiling system may void the warranty.

"B A R R Y" <beech23pilot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:13Uhh.4617$yC5.3940@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net...[color=blue]
> RedForeman wrote:[color=green]
>>
>> Filter Relocation Kit?? I've been thinking about doing one that brings
>> it up to the firewall on the passenger side, but the oil lines are long
>> and 'up higher', never was sure if that was a good idea or not...[/color]
>
> Altering the oiling system may void the warranty.[/color]

Seems like an awful lot of trouble and expense to do the service yourself...
then what are you going to do with the old oil?? I take mine to the shop and
have it serviced every 3,000 miles....its only $32 to get it done, and takes
them less than 30 minutes...and they check and top off everything. I don't
know about you, but for me to do everything they do, it would take me well
over an hour, and cost $15 - $18 for the oil, filter, etc.... then I have to
dispose of the used oil.
Its not worth my time for me to even screw with it.... whats your time
worth??

On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 10:27:04 -0600, "Noon-Air" <Noon-Air@comcast.net>
wrote:
[color=blue]
>
>"B A R R Y" <beech23pilot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:13Uhh.4617$yC5.3940@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net...[color=green]
>> RedForeman wrote:[color=darkred]
>>>
>>> Filter Relocation Kit?? I've been thinking about doing one that brings
>>> it up to the firewall on the passenger side, but the oil lines are long
>>> and 'up higher', never was sure if that was a good idea or not...[/color]
>>
>> Altering the oiling system may void the warranty.[/color]
>
>Seems like an awful lot of trouble and expense to do the service yourself...
>then what are you going to do with the old oil?? I take mine to the shop and
>have it serviced every 3,000 miles....its only $32 to get it done, and takes
>them less than 30 minutes...and they check and top off everything. I don't
>know about you, but for me to do everything they do, it would take me well
>over an hour, and cost $15 - $18 for the oil, filter, etc.... then I have to
>dispose of the used oil.
>Its not worth my time for me to even screw with it.... whats your time
>worth??
>
>[/color]

I change my oil myself because I enjoy working on my truck and don't
ever consider it a waste of time. I have been using Perulator Pure
One filters and Casterol. When you take to have it serviced it is
harder to make choices. I've always changed oil every 3000 miles,
and usually keep my vehicles to the 150,000 mark.

"Phisherman" <noone@nobody.com> wrote in message
news:i96ho2tqs77fpum5lmmtmftjrilh4ptpju@4ax.com...[color=blue]
> On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 10:27:04 -0600, "Noon-Air" <Noon-Air@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>[color=green]
>>
>>"B A R R Y" <beech23pilot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:13Uhh.4617$yC5.3940@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net...[color=darkred]
>>> RedForeman wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Filter Relocation Kit?? I've been thinking about doing one that brings
>>>> it up to the firewall on the passenger side, but the oil lines are long
>>>> and 'up higher', never was sure if that was a good idea or not...
>>>
>>> Altering the oiling system may void the warranty.[/color]
>>
>>Seems like an awful lot of trouble and expense to do the service
>>yourself...
>>then what are you going to do with the old oil?? I take mine to the shop
>>and
>>have it serviced every 3,000 miles....its only $32 to get it done, and
>>takes
>>them less than 30 minutes...and they check and top off everything. I don't
>>know about you, but for me to do everything they do, it would take me well
>>over an hour, and cost $15 - $18 for the oil, filter, etc.... then I have
>>to
>>dispose of the used oil.
>>Its not worth my time for me to even screw with it.... whats your time
>>worth??
>>
>>[/color]
>
> I change my oil myself because I enjoy working on my truck and don't
> ever consider it a waste of time. I have been using Perulator Pure
> One filters and Casterol. When you take to have it serviced it is
> harder to make choices.[/color]

No... the only choice is what mechanic will give you the very best quality
workmanship. Chances are, they are already using the very best filters and
oils.
[color=blue]
> I've always changed oil every 3000 miles,
> and usually keep my vehicles to the 150,000 mark.[/color]

My vehicles are usually getting their first clutch job at around 180,000
miles, and I start looking for a new vehicle around 280,000 - 300,000 miles.

Phisherman wrote:[color=blue]
>
> I change my oil myself because I enjoy working on my truck and don't
> ever consider it a waste of time.[/color]

So do I. Some folks find it relaxing and satisfying. If you hate this
sort of thing, then you won't. <G> I usually follow the oil changes
with a wash, wax, vacuum, interior dust, and glass cleanings.

Other considerations:
- I actually look at belts & hoses, brake and clutch fluid levels
(wear indications), discolorations from leaks, coolant condition and
color, etc... Most shops simply say they do this but simply pencil
whip the form.

- I can use full synthetic oil for less than a shop can use regular oil.

- Old oil is easily disposed of when you use a capped drain pan. You
just bring it back to the place you bought the oil and pour it into the
used oil tank.

- I also rotate my tires and set air pressures. Again, for real, not
pencil whipped. While the wheels are off, I can eyeball the brakes and
anti-seize the lug nuts. Leaky shocks and struts are also apparent with
the wheels off.

Many people actually think real mechanics do oil changes. They don't, a
lesser paid "lube tech" does. During a "free" oil change, my local Jeep
dealership destroyed every front-end grease boot on my '99 Wrangler with
an air-powered grease gun, then completely denied it 45 minutes later.
They couldn't explain the fresh grease all over the place! 8^(

I can change my own oil and rotate my tires on both of my vehicles, a
'99 Wrangler Sport & '05 4x4 Tacoma, in about 90 minutes. This includes
getting out and putting away the tools. Since both of my vehicles go ~
8000 miles a year, I do both at the same time, on a nice fall day, and a
nice spring day. Fresh winter wiper blades on in fall, new "normal"
blades in spring.

Add in the detailing, some cold microbrew, and it's a great way to spend
a nice day. <G>

"B A R R Y" <beech23pilot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hFaih.26735$Ga1.7506@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net...[color=blue]
> Phisherman wrote:[color=green]
>>
>> I change my oil myself because I enjoy working on my truck and don't
>> ever consider it a waste of time.[/color]
>
> So do I. Some folks find it relaxing and satisfying. If you hate this
> sort of thing, then you won't. <G> I usually follow the oil changes with
> a wash, wax, vacuum, interior dust, and glass cleanings.
>
> Other considerations:
> - I actually look at belts & hoses, brake and clutch fluid levels (wear
> indications), discolorations from leaks, coolant condition and color,
> etc... Most shops simply say they do this but simply pencil whip the
> form.
>
> - I can use full synthetic oil for less than a shop can use regular oil.
>
> - Old oil is easily disposed of when you use a capped drain pan. You just
> bring it back to the place you bought the oil and pour it into the used
> oil tank.
>
> - I also rotate my tires and set air pressures. Again, for real, not
> pencil whipped. While the wheels are off, I can eyeball the brakes and
> anti-seize the lug nuts. Leaky shocks and struts are also apparent with
> the wheels off.
>
> Many people actually think real mechanics do oil changes. They don't, a
> lesser paid "lube tech" does. During a "free" oil change, my local Jeep
> dealership destroyed every front-end grease boot on my '99 Wrangler with
> an air-powered grease gun, then completely denied it 45 minutes later.
> They couldn't explain the fresh grease all over the place! 8^(
>
> I can change my own oil and rotate my tires on both of my vehicles, a '99
> Wrangler Sport & '05 4x4 Tacoma, in about 90 minutes. This includes
> getting out and putting away the tools. Since both of my vehicles go ~
> 8000 miles a year, I do both at the same time, on a nice fall day, and a
> nice spring day. Fresh winter wiper blades on in fall, new "normal"
> blades in spring.
>
> Add in the detailing, some cold microbrew, and it's a great way to spend a
> nice day. <G>[/color]

Glad you have the time to do all that.... and that you do so few miles. My
Tundra was purchased new a month and a half before Katrina and has over
43,000 miles on it already. It takes me approximately 3 hours to get it
serviced at the shop($32), then take it to get it a bath($30 hand wash).
Having the truck down for those 3 hours cost approximately $500 in gross
reciepts for that morning. My Tundra is a service truck for my heating & air
conditioning company.
[url]http://new.photos.yahoo.com/noon_air/album/576460762351274778/photo/294928803769953025/5[/url]