1999 Landcruiser rear rotor replacement job

Anyone have a writeup or pics on replacement of the rear rotors? Inside pad
tore one up pretty good ... outside pad still has 10K of service left so the
inside one must have come apart. In any case, new rotors are in order. If
someone knows the min rotor thickness it may be able to be turned but I
doubt it. Thanks for your help.

Shammy



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I don't know the Land Cruiser per se, but brakes are pretty straight
forward. The Minimum Spec. is stamped either on the edge, or on the hub area
where it is easily identifiable and readable.

Typically, there will be a countersunk screw on the flange area where the
lug bolts come through, you use an Impact Wrench with a #3 Phillips
screwdriver head, or just use the #3 screwdriver and hit it a good lick with
a hammer while you turn it. This might be a good spot for some Liquid
Wrench, by the way.

I'd be wondering why the inside caliper/pad got stuck and wore the rotor
out. If you don't not determine a cause, then the new brakes can destroy the
new rotor in short order.




"shammydog" <shammydog@mylaptop.com> wrote in message
news:1127517820_10679@spool6-east.superfeed.net...[color=blue]
> Anyone have a writeup or pics on replacement of the rear rotors? Inside
> pad tore one up pretty good ... outside pad still has 10K of service left
> so the inside one must have come apart. In any case, new rotors are in
> order. If someone knows the min rotor thickness it may be able to be
> turned but I doubt it. Thanks for your help.
>
> Shammy
>
>
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> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
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Thanks Jeff. I'm at a loss as to why the inside pad wore so fast as well.
The caliper looks fine ... the 2 bolts that hold it slide freely as expected
.... very strange. I agree with you though, I am going to have to keep an
eye on it after this repair.

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:v7Cdnbv40IrvCqneRVn-jQ@ez2.net...[color=blue]
>I don't know the Land Cruiser per se, but brakes are pretty straight
>forward. The Minimum Spec. is stamped either on the edge, or on the hub
>area where it is easily identifiable and readable.
>
> Typically, there will be a countersunk screw on the flange area where the
> lug bolts come through, you use an Impact Wrench with a #3 Phillips
> screwdriver head, or just use the #3 screwdriver and hit it a good lick
> with a hammer while you turn it. This might be a good spot for some Liquid
> Wrench, by the way.
>
> I'd be wondering why the inside caliper/pad got stuck and wore the rotor
> out. If you don't not determine a cause, then the new brakes can destroy
> the new rotor in short order.
>
>
>
>
> "shammydog" <shammydog@mylaptop.com> wrote in message
> news:1127517820_10679@spool6-east.superfeed.net...[color=green]
>> Anyone have a writeup or pics on replacement of the rear rotors? Inside
>> pad tore one up pretty good ... outside pad still has 10K of service left
>> so the inside one must have come apart. In any case, new rotors are in
>> order. If someone knows the min rotor thickness it may be able to be
>> turned but I doubt it. Thanks for your help.
>>
>> Shammy
>>
>>
>> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> [url]http://www.usenet.com[/url][/color]
>
>[/color]



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Just finished the rear end rotor replacement and thought I would share. The
rear brakes on this LC are disk with emergency drum brakes, so the rotor
looks like a brake drum with a thin outer disk. To remove the drum/disk,
there are 2 threaded holes 180 degrees apart on the flange that each accept
a normal M8 metric bolt. A few turns on each will press the rotor free from
the hub. From there it is a normal brake drum removal operation. The car
should be in neutral so you can turn the rotor, else the brake shoes can get
hung up inside the drum... just turn and wiggle and it will eventually slide
off.

Shammy

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:v7Cdnbv40IrvCqneRVn-jQ@ez2.net...[color=blue]
>I don't know the Land Cruiser per se, but brakes are pretty straight
>forward. The Minimum Spec. is stamped either on the edge, or on the hub
>area where it is easily identifiable and readable.
>
> Typically, there will be a countersunk screw on the flange area where the
> lug bolts come through, you use an Impact Wrench with a #3 Phillips
> screwdriver head, or just use the #3 screwdriver and hit it a good lick
> with a hammer while you turn it. This might be a good spot for some Liquid
> Wrench, by the way.
>
> I'd be wondering why the inside caliper/pad got stuck and wore the rotor
> out. If you don't not determine a cause, then the new brakes can destroy
> the new rotor in short order.
>
>
>
>
> "shammydog" <shammydog@mylaptop.com> wrote in message
> news:1127517820_10679@spool6-east.superfeed.net...[color=green]
>> Anyone have a writeup or pics on replacement of the rear rotors? Inside
>> pad tore one up pretty good ... outside pad still has 10K of service left
>> so the inside one must have come apart. In any case, new rotors are in
>> order. If someone knows the min rotor thickness it may be able to be
>> turned but I doubt it. Thanks for your help.
>>
>> Shammy
>>
>>
>> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> [url]http://www.usenet.com[/url][/color]
>
>[/color]



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shammydog wrote:[color=blue]
> Thanks Jeff. I'm at a loss as to why the inside pad wore so fast as
> well. The caliper looks fine ... the 2 bolts that hold it slide
> freely as expected ... very strange. I agree[/color]
snip

Usuallly when the inside pad wears out before outside then you have a
caliper piston sticking. The outside will wear prematurely if there is an
issue with the slide pins or guides.
You should be able to determine if there's a problem by spinning while on
jackstands, applying brake and noticing if brakes release properly.
You could be right though and the pad material broke off for some reason,
it's not common but can happen.
HTH, davidj92

"davidj92" <davidj92REMOVE@sigecom.net> wrote in message
news:FMmdnYhYw5grXqjeRVn-pQ@sigecom.net...[color=blue]
> shammydog wrote:[color=green]
>> Thanks Jeff. I'm at a loss as to why the inside pad wore so fast as
>> well. The caliper looks fine ... the 2 bolts that hold it slide
>> freely as expected ... very strange. I agree[/color]
> snip
>
> Usuallly when the inside pad wears out before outside then you have a
> caliper piston sticking. The outside will wear prematurely if there is an
> issue with the slide pins or guides.[/color]


That's a good tip, and it makes sense. I never thought of that before.



[color=blue]
> You should be able to determine if there's a problem by spinning while on
> jackstands, applying brake and noticing if brakes release properly.
> You could be right though and the pad material broke off for some reason,
> it's not common but can happen.
> HTH, davidj92
>[/color]