Testing a Ignitor for 81-82 cress - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

tee742k · 02-16-2009, 04:32 PM

82 with 198 k has issues and in the Last month : Water pump went and then so did the alternator

week later a stall on freeway i did the : fuel filter, then compression check at 125, mechanic said do a tune up.

so.. did the plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor then ignition coil saturday.

still stalling at low speeds and who knows when

After 500$ it is probably the ignitor or the distributor.

Come on nation save the day...

stepho · 02-17-2009, 06:18 AM

Igniter failure tends to be all or nothing.
If it still works at all then it is unlikely to be an igniter problem.

Air leaks in the manifold caused similar symptoms for me on other cars.
This could include a leak in the vacuum booster or a faulty PCV valve.

- Stepho

tee742k · 02-18-2009, 06:42 AM

cheers. your the second to say a vacuem issue, the old wires tested to 10000 ohm and the coil was 12 v so im taking back those.

The ignitor is very hard to find as it was only made for 81 82 models.

So we have to be sure and get the specs for it.

DOES anyone have the ohm range and specs for testing a 81 82 ignitor?

Where is the pcv valve on a 5me?

Chilton is not helpful.

Cheers.

***kamesama980*** · 02-18-2009, 10:38 PM

I don't know how much carryover there is but the MKII supra tsrm says 25k Ohm is the limit, I doubt the 5me was too different. I agree that it's probably not the ignition system, that usually manifests at high rpm where there's more stress on it. plus as mentioned the igniter tends to be an all or nothing item. The coil will usually test very low resistance on the primary winding (low voltage side) and higher on the secondary (high voltage) side... neighborhood of 10k-20k Ohm would be my guess but I could be wrong.

I'm the third to say vacuum leaks, they tend to be most noticeable at low rpms where there isn't much airflow through the engine and the vacuum leak is a larger % difference. I don't think there is a PCV valve but there will be hoses. and lots of them, PCV and otherwise.

I'd watch ebay for a manual for your year...look for the big green and black book, not one on CD or a chiltons/haynes POS.

tee742k · 02-19-2009, 04:13 AM

Bless,

It originally gave out on the freeway super bowl eve at 65 now it runs for ten 20 minutes sat night then it stalls as i pull out of the parking sunday afternoon so i really havent driven it on the I 5 since.

I think it s vacuum issue not a pickup , ignition coil, distributor, or plugs or plug wires glad i didnt go for a 150$ ignitor though the plugs and igniton coil (napa doesnt fit as wide as nippon denso ) needed done as i had had the car for 4 years next month.

This is her 198 k 4 year hiccup that i wanna try to solve mano e mano...so where to start? and what tools to survey a leak?

tee742k · 02-19-2009, 06:00 PM

found the pcv "hoses" diagram on chilton (one hand tied hand behind my back) maybe a new vacuum cannister?

***kamesama980*** · 02-20-2009, 10:43 PM

there are any number of hoses that could be at fault. your whole climate control system is vacuum actuated for example. I'd invest in a vacuum gauge, hook it up to a solid vacuum source close to the manifold (T into a line, should have fittings for doing so included) and start pulling hoses one at a time, see if it chances the vacuum or how the engine runs, then plug it back in. when you find one that doesn't change how the engine runs, that's the culprit.

a slightly more volatile method is to get a can of ether and spray (a little at a time) at hoses and junctions. if the engine suddenly revs up, one of the last 10 seconds of hoses was the one. brake clean works too, is less flammable, but not as noticeable.

stepho · 02-21-2009, 05:45 PM

Oops, my suggestion of PCV valve was wrong, I was thinking of another engine.
Still probably something to do with vacuum though.

The brake booster has a small valve in the line connecting it to the manifold that worth checking.
Does it stall when you press the brake pedal?

Kame's suggestion of spraying is good.
I normally use a cheap and nasty water spray bottle from the $2 shop.
The big thick heavy water drops temporarily block the leak and power comes up again.

- Stepho

tee742k · 02-21-2009, 08:11 PM

I went in and could hear the " Denso EGR vacuum modulator" with a black and red Aisin EGR valve.

They are either 100 for new one or nowhere.

NAPA guy says "you don't do emissions now, plug up the five hoses with bolts and screws"

been running for 2 trips...it was suggested to raise the idle but Chilton says you need a few machines (tach) to read it..and a screwdriver.

So .........

***kamesama980*** · 02-21-2009, 09:44 PM

don't mess with the idle screw. if it runs, it's good. EGR is inactive at idle anyway.

don't use screws/bolts to plug vacuum lines (or other lines) air can get around the threads, albeit slowly. get actual vacuum blockoffs or loop the hoses back to other vacuum ports. (just don't mix before- and after-throttle plate hoses

tee742k · 02-27-2009, 02:09 AM

well thanks to stepho and Kame.

It was the VCV valve along withe EGR vacuum modulator.

I put vacuum caps on the hoses and moved on maybe to a new car...

A women has a 145 k 95 celica sitting for year and wants to sell it for a 1000.

I put the cress on craigslist to see if i get any bites, so if any one in seattle wants to buy a 82 let me know.