5efe head gasket still leaking, I need advice fast !!!
Hey guys,
My rebuilt 5efe motor now has around 1300 miles on it. I use it as a daily driver to and from work. I did the work myself, and used new Topline parts, oil pump, water pump, head bolts, head gasket and head gasket seal kit.
I'm still getting an external coolant leak from the head gasket and can actually see coolant dripping down when the engine is cold. The leak completely stops when the car warms up.
I followed the proper torque procedure, in sequence, 33lbs, then in sequence an additional 90 degrees.
Last weekend I went in and turned all bolts an additional 90 degrees, of course in sequence.
When I first started the car last weekend, I didn't see a leak, so I assumed that the extra 90 degrees corrected the problem.
I then used the car all week, put around 400 miles during the week, and checked the coolant level on Friday morning.
I'm thinking that the bolts are not holding force, or the head gasket is just plain not working.
I even called the guys at Topline and they stated that I did everything correct, but asked me if I scrubbed the faces of the head and block down with 1200 grit sandpaper and a large square block. I said no but that my block and head was check out by my machine shop and both were deamed reusable.
I want to get this leak corrected once and for all. I have talked to many mechnics in my area and some of them asked me if the head is warped while others asked me if I sprayed the head gasket with some sort of sealer, and I said no.
I really don't think it is the head or block surfaces, but then I left that work to my machine shop.
I'm leaning towards maybe bad head bolts and head gasket, even though they are new.
What have been your guys experiences with TOPLINE.
I think that this aftermarket head gasket is just plain incorrect, it seems too thin for the job.
I'm leaning towards removing the head, running a 1200 to 2000 grit sanding block on both head and block surfaces, and then using a genuine Toyota head gasket and head bolts.
PLEASE REPLY with any solutions that you may have.
As stated in my original post, I ran the proper torque sequence, 33 ft lbs, then 90 degrees.
I ran one week and then retorqued them an additional 90 degrees.
What are you saying, that the head bolts are under torque or are loosing torque, last weekend when I turned them the additional 90 degs past the original 90 degs, those bolts were tighter then shit.
What torque value should I use ??
The problem is that these bolts are TTY bolts and really shouldn't be retorqued in the first place.
after you torque your head bolts you can go back in about a week and set the wrench for the same amount of torque and put it on the head bolts. if it clicks right away, your bolts are fine, if you need to turn it any more than a quarter turn, the bolts could be coming loose or not holding enough. the sandpaper thing is only meant for you to remove all the old crap that could be on the surface of the block. any of the old gasket that's left could cause problems such as leaks...
Yes u must put sealer on TOP and bottom of gasket, its like glue, u wouldnt wnana glue something just on one side, u wanan glue to get on all 3 things, head, gasket and crankbox
Im gonna watch a few videos but from what i know u gotta apply sealer all over the gasket
__________________ 1993 Toyota Tercel 3EE - 45,000 Miles - Odometer 280,000
*Leaking gas, Leaking Coolant, Non functoning AC, Sagging DS door. NEW TIRES!
What side of the head is the leak on? Get yourself some new head bolts for the second round. Applied torque can and will reduce over time with stretched bolts. I agree with the sandpaper method. The same result can be achieved by gentle application of a "very fine" wire wheel attached to a 120 volt drill. A Dremel wire wheel will work too. Be careful on the head surface since its aluminum. Metal head gaskets do not use a sealant like FIPG or Permatex. I trust that you don't want to repair it a third time. Keep in mind that the thickness of the gasket is important. Adding a sealant will increase the thickness of the gasket. Plus some of it may squeeze its way into the coolant and oil passages, thus having possible contamination of both systems with particles if/when it breaks loose. Please read link below for more details. When in doubt, consult your dealer for quality parts. They are expensive but the level of quality is worlds apart compared to aftermarket. Good luck.
__________________
1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
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Last edited by 96paseo; 05-19-2010 at 07:34 PM.
Reason: Can't spell today
I read up on some info online. You might have WARPED the gasket.
You said you followed proper torque thingey but you did not say you followed proper ORDER of torquing bolts.
My engine 3ee has 10 bolts, they must be torqued in sequence from middle outward, alternating sides
9-6-2-4-8
7-3-1-5-10
This is to be done 3 Times. Different LBS torque.
Or something like that? Did u follow that as well? If not u might have warped the gasket or streched it. Causing improper torque. I also agree with replacing bolts after too many times, they stretch.
Hope that helps.
__________________ 1993 Toyota Tercel 3EE - 45,000 Miles - Odometer 280,000
*Leaking gas, Leaking Coolant, Non functoning AC, Sagging DS door. NEW TIRES!
I agree 100% with 96paseo. Never use any type of sealant on a head gasket. The head bolts have to be tightened in proper sequence from the middle of the head to the outside, at each torque value or you will warp the head. Maybe trying to pressurize the coolant system with the engine cold will help you to diagnose exactly where the leak is coming from. I had a problem with the thermostat O-ring once, and it looked like it was coming for the head. Maybe the rad cap is not working and the system is purging pressure from the path of least resistance.
what does the compression check say? Is there any oil in your coolant? Coolant in the oil? white smoke coming from the exhaust? Coolant system getting over pressurized and leaking out the overflow? Those are all signs of a warped head or head gasket installed incorrectly.
Lots of questions that you should figure out the answers to before you take off the head.
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