Just got my 92 Paseo with 190K miles. Owner said it has the original clutch which still seems to work fine. I'm going to replace it and at least the throwout bearing depending if the pressure plate is within spec or not because when I take it to my new apartment I won't be able to do it in the parking lot. I have a floor jack, jack stands, and a dolley along with assort hand tools. Is is possible to do the clutch job with the front of the car on jack stands and using the jack on wheels with a custom wooden frame to support the transaxle in the right areas without damaging anything? I know it's alot more difficult that way but I don't have much of a choice. My friend has a lift I could use but he lives really far away. I have a week to get the car back driving again. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
One more quesiton. I'm also doing the timing belt as it's due. I've done one on my mothers '96 Lexus LS400 V8 which I'm sure is a little more difficult than the I4. The engine is leaking oil somewhere just a little bit and I'm wandering what else I could replace seal wise or whatever while I'm doing the clutch and timing belt. Should I replace the water pump while I'm in there? Thanks alot guy's!
i just did a clutch on the 1992 paseo i just bought. heres what i did.
1. disconnect the battery cable
2. remove the intake tubing and air box.
3. disconnect all the grounds, connectors, and linkages from the transmission.
4. unbolt the top mounting bolts that go into the block.
5. jack both sides of the car up enough to get the transmission out after you drop it.
6. Remove the starter. (I just left it sitting where it is cause its a pain to move around in there. just remove the bolts and dont worry about it)
7. remove the front and rear tranny mounts. support the motor under the oil pan with a jackstand or extra jack. use a flat board or something so you dont damage it. ( THE REAR MOUNT IS A PAIN!!! USE swivels a 3" extension and a 17 MM socket. you will have to unbolt the sway bar to get room for the last bolt.
8. drain the fluid
9. remove the cv joints (then run through the garage looking for rags cause you forgot to drain the fluid)
10. unbolt the rest of the tranny and slide it out its not to heavy but i advise you use a jack or a buddy. if you have any quetsions pm me
Cool, thanks for the help. So you just used one floor jack and a few jackstands? What kind of tools were required besides sockets and such. I'm guessing a ball joint tool, brass drift and a big hammer? How long did the job take you?
Also, what else do yall think I should do while the trans is off and I'm doing the timing belt? Thanks!
The Timing Belt Job is pretty easy to do
1. Remove Acc Belts
2. Set Engine To TDC 0 on Timing Cover
3. Remove Crank Pulley
4. Remove Vaccum Assy bolted to engine Mount (Just take the bolt out and move the whole thing aside trust me it will help in the next step.
5. Remove Timing Covers
6. Loosen Oil Pump Pulley Bolt (only if your oil pump maybe leaking)
7. Loosen Tensioner Pulley Bolt
8. Remove Tensioner Spring (Needle Nose works Fine)
I did the timing belt job in about an hour when mine broke
Also dont tighten the tensioner pulley back up until your sure all the slack is out of the belt when you put the spring back on check it. a friend bent a valve on his tercel cuz he rushed
Sometime the oil pump housing leaks in the front its a common leak, you may have to get a gasket kit for a 92 celica to fix it.
Also check the head gasket bolt stretching seems to create leaks on the front of the engine
Last edited by Delete_YourSelf; 12-28-2007 at 12:48 AM.
^^ you really dont have to get the fly wheel turned unless the fly wheel is little messed up, just clean the flywheel with some brake cleaner and wipe it down good, trust me i do it all the time with other cars, when i did it to my terc, i could burn out in reverse, and i think thats hard to do.
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