help with my 3e feedback carb

[ivrunner]

Background of my Tercel:

It’s a 88 DX model with the 3e engine and an auto 4 speed tranny

First thing done after my dad and I decided to get it running was to do a complete tune-up: spark plugs (NGK), wires, rotor, cap, gas filter, fuel filter, oil change, PCV, oxygen sensor, etc. It ran, but not very well. Its problem was that it was getting so much gas that it was flooding itself. The spark plugs would carbon up real bad and it would die at idle (mostly while in gear) you had to put it in park or neutral and give it a lot of gas to keep it from dying, but when its accelerating it drives awesome. So, it’s obvious that it was running rich, which is why it was also dieseling every time when I shut it off.

We took it to two different mechanics and they were lost. They checked out a few things, but ultimately had no idea. They checked the timing, the idle, vacuum lines (for misrouting and leaks). Well...it still ran the same. We went to Toyota and asked to have the techs take a look. The techs performed a diagnosis of the problem we were having, which consisted of a compression test, and who knows what else and they said that it needed a new carb and quoted us nearly a grand for a new one. We were a little upset that they charged us $100 or so to do a compression test and say we needed a new carb, so we kept asking questions to help us determine if it was something else. We got a little info on the float and decided to get a brand new float, which costs 70 bucks alone. . We put it in and adjusted it correctly and also decided to rebuild the carb while we were at it (bought a decent kit from Napa). It ran better, but still not very well. The old float also looked fine, but there was no taking it back.

During this time I slowly started to research about these carbs and learned that they were a nightmare and no one liked to work on them. We had a lot of problems getting it timed right with the right idle setting, so we diagnosed the problem possible caused by the Throttle Valve Solenoid, but it was 160 bucks and we weren’t even sure if it was fix anything. We decided against it. Well I got sick of working on it and not getting anywhere, so I parked it for almost a year. Sometimes I would feel frisky and work on it again, but not really getting anywhere. My dad finally got fed up because it was a great car and everything was up to par except the carb, so he went out and bought a remanufactured carb from Napa...around 500 if I remember right. it ran better, but still ran rich and dieseled...meaning it could get way better gas mileage.

Lately I have been real dedicated to it and wanted it to run like I knew it could. I spend a LONG time going through and making sure the vacuum hoses were routed right and there were no leaks. I had to do a lot of searching online to find a good vacuum routing diagram. It immediately stopped dieseling, but there are still some issues of running rich especially on cold starts.

I have a few main questions:

What is responsible for the car idling up on cold starts, because mine does not? Instead it idles down and during this time it runs really rough....very rich, sounds like its going to die, etc (again at idle). When you are driving with raised rpm it runs normal, but stopped at a light it runs rough again. Then magically roughly 15 minutes later (I’m assuming at normal operating temp) it runs really well... normal idle, doesn’t run rich (or not nearly as bad). Once I sat there messing with it during this cold start and it’s almost if you can hear a click and it kicks up the idle and it starts running normal. My question is what are the possible reasons for this? What is bad?

Another question is that after making sure the vacuum lines were all ran correctly I found a couple that weren’t hooked up to anything or the spot it should go isn’t there.

There was one line that wasn’t on any diagram and it is plugged and I don’t see a spot for it to go, but it looks important.
Here are a few pictures of it:



Here is the routing diagram I used:


Here shows the lines that I have questions about:

the orange line I drew in is showing a vacuum port that is on the remanufactured carb, but was not on the stock carb. What does it go to? I currently have it capped

the blue highlighted vacuum line is from the canister, but the part I have circled shows a port that is factory capped on my engine, so will this cause problems if the canister vacuum line cant go to that.

[ARCHINSTL]

Check this AZ page, item 4:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

[ivrunner]

Originally Posted by ARCHINSTL

Check this AZ page, item 4:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

i have seen that page, but it still doesnt help me out.

any inputs or suggestions?

[ivrunner]

just like at a mechanic shop...people are afraid of this carb.

please??? anyone have anything to say?

[ivrunner]

update:

I plugged the random vaccum line coming off this remanufactured carb.

I adjusted the fast idle with hoped to fix the cold start issue....it went up, but stayed up. even once at normal operating temp...i turned it back down some, but its still too high when its warm. however, when its in gear and warm the idle is where it should be. i went by the haynes manual as well as info on the autozone page. What direction should i go next?

any suggestions?