Hello all. I have an 87 tercel hatchback that has developed an oil leak from the distributor/valve cover area. I was told that the o-ring on the distributor was bad so I replaced the whole distributor.
That didn't help, the oil is still leaking from where the distributor and valve cover meet up. The oil does not appear to be leaking from the valve cover... also, the problem only occurs after I have been driving the car, when testing there is no leakage. What should my next step be? This is driving me nuts!
Chances are good its the valve cover gasket. Have you replaced it? Did you get a new o-ring with the new distributor? I would suspect the leak is dripping from the bottom of the distributor. When a VC gasket goes bad, it tends to leak the worst at the corners of the hump where the gasket goes over the shaft tunnel. When the FIPG in the corners wears out, it will leak pretty good. Also make sure your valve cover nuts are not loose.
__________________
1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
Find my DIY's or advice helpful? Don't forget to hit the "Thanks" button.
Last edited by 96paseo; 05-17-2010 at 05:20 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to 96paseo For This Useful Post:
I checked the valve cover a little bit better and it appears that it's just bubblegummed on there via permatex... and it looks like the oil is leaking from where they didn't do too good of a job.
The valve cover nuts aren't loose per se but they still can be turned. I am assuming I should acquire/borrow a torque wrench to ensure they are within specs when I replace the gasket.
The distributor was brand new with a new o-ring when I bought it so that wasn't an issue. I thank you for helping me take a deeper look at my problem and I will post the results when I have completed replacing the gasket.
You can get away with FIPG only but its not the proper way. Definitely check the dealer for a new VC gasket and a tube of FIPG. It will save you time and a headache. Give the FIPG at least 16 hours to cure before you drive it.
__________________
1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
Find my DIY's or advice helpful? Don't forget to hit the "Thanks" button.
Gasket installed, used some ultra black for the sealant, looks like the oil leak is gone. Saw one drop on the block after the test drive but that might have seeped out from somewhere else. I'll be keeping you guys posted, thanks 96paseo!
looks like you have the problem solved, but you might want to look at the breather next time you are checking up on your repair. Some times leaks start for a reason, and a plugged breather is a common one. Having said that, I've had my fair share of leaks caused by old RTV or permatex that just breaks down with age.
Breather? You mean the PCV? I replaced that a while back, long before the oil leak. Unfortunately, now I have a high-pitched whining noise coming from the opposite side of the car, where the alternator/timing belt/water pump are. The fact that it's an intermittent noise is also displeasing... it never ends with this damn car.
Breather? You mean the PCV? I replaced that a while back, long before the oil leak. Unfortunately, now I have a high-pitched whining noise coming from the opposite side of the car, where the alternator/timing belt/water pump are. The fact that it's an intermittent noise is also displeasing... it never ends with this damn car.
The breather is the other thing on the valve cover that looks like the PCV but doesn't have the right-angle connector. It's supposed to let in fresh air and the PCV pulls the air back out. Sometimes it can start sputtering oil into the air cleaner and clog up with deposits. I had to clean mine with a paperclip to unclog the carbon deposits.
You might want to check your belt tension. if a belt is too tight it can put stress on the bearings in the pulleys and cause them to make noise and wear faster. A loose belt will make noise too if it slips, but that's usually more of a squealing noise. There's a lot of stuff in that area, so it can be hard to track down. Using a piece of vacuum hose, you can put one end to your ear and aim the other end at suspected sources of noise to find the cause of hard-to-locate noises - works like a stethoscope.
Breather? You mean the PCV? I replaced that a while back, long before the oil leak. Unfortunately, now I have a high-pitched whining noise coming from the opposite side of the car, where the alternator/timing belt/water pump are. The fact that it's an intermittent noise is also displeasing... it never ends with this damn car.
Its going to be the water pump, tensioners or the alternator. I'll bet on the water pump.
__________________
1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
Find my DIY's or advice helpful? Don't forget to hit the "Thanks" button.
The water pump that I just replaced less than 20k miles ago? It better not be! That thing was a goddamn pain in the ass to replace, I'll pay someone else to do it this time if that's what it is!
The water pump that I just replaced less than 20k miles ago? It better not be! That thing was a goddamn pain in the ass to replace, I'll pay someone else to do it this time if that's what it is!
Ok that eliminates the water pump. Yeah, they are tough to get to thanks to the motor mount. If its the alternator, the noise should change in intensity depending on load. Try turning on all you lights and accesories and see if it gets louder, then quiets when you turn 'em off. Whats the condition of timing related components?
__________________
1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
Find my DIY's or advice helpful? Don't forget to hit the "Thanks" button.
Well at this point I am not totally satisfied that it's NOT the water pump... However, I haven't noticed any loss of coolant and the car's temps are pretty much normal. I recently did a coolant flush and thermostat replacement on the car so that may have something to do with it...
It's not the alternator. I checked and it doesn't make any difference whether the alt's pulling a load or not, the noise increases/decreases just the same.
I recently had something go out in the timing belt area (a sprocket or tensioner) but had it replaced under warranty by the same retards who did my engine so I have no idea what the status is under the timing belt cover. I don't really want to take it back to them because they do really crappy work and take FOREVER, I need my car in a day or two after I drop it off!
At this point I am HOPING that it's the water pump. I don't really have a whole lot of patience/time to waste when it comes to fixing stuff on this car, I just need it fixed. As soon as I fix one thing something else always breaks on the car anyway so this whole thing is coming as no big surprise to me.
Well at this point I am not totally satisfied that it's NOT the water pump... However, I haven't noticed any loss of coolant and the car's temps are pretty much normal. I recently did a coolant flush and thermostat replacement on the car so that may have something to do with it...
It's not the alternator. I checked and it doesn't make any difference whether the alt's pulling a load or not, the noise increases/decreases just the same.
I recently had something go out in the timing belt area (a sprocket or tensioner) but had it replaced under warranty by the same retards who did my engine so I have no idea what the status is under the timing belt cover. I don't really want to take it back to them because they do really crappy work and take FOREVER, I need my car in a day or two after I drop it off!
At this point I am HOPING that it's the water pump. I don't really have a whole lot of patience/time to waste when it comes to fixing stuff on this car, I just need it fixed. As soon as I fix one thing something else always breaks on the car anyway so this whole thing is coming as no big surprise to me.
Noahthefrog had mentioned using a vacuum hose for a stethoscope. You can do that on the timing cover to check the noise is under there or not.
__________________
1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
Find my DIY's or advice helpful? Don't forget to hit the "Thanks" button.
There is a bolt on the timing belt cover that locks the timing belt tensioner in place at whatever tension it's at. You can loosen that bolt a little and it will let the tension spring add tension if necessary, then tighten it back down. The guy who did my timing belt replacement told me I might want to do that after the belt has had a little time to stretch. It's near the middle of the timing belt cover vertically and is a little left of center. You may want to have a look in the manual to get a clear image of which bolt it is if you decide to try this.
Update: It was the water pump. I'm guessing it was a combination of the non-oem waterpump I put on there as well as my not using distilled water when I did the flush on the cooling system. Thanks 96paseo and noahthefrog. 96paseo, how did you know it was the water pump, did you see the box in my garage that said 'cardone' on it or what? Hahahaha
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1993 Toyota Camry
New hinges on the way.
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