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Old 05-28-2010, 12:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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a series of unfortunate events

A while back I installed a custom stereo in my 93 4 speed manual tercel. A little while ago when it began to intermittently turn off. Random things seemed to shut it down like opening the door, and most times it wouldn't turn on even when first starting the car.
Eventually I made the connection that when the radio didn't work, neither did the 12-volt outlet. That problem is still unresolved because I haven't had the time.
This morning I noticed the backlight for the rear defroster switch was lit. In all the years of owning this car, it has never been lit. I thought it was nice for something to fix itself for a change.
This afternoon the charge and brake indicator lights began to blink, and then stay on. Higher rpms make them go off and brighten the headlights as is consistant with an alternator problem or something similar.
This evening, the problem persists, but now the airbag indicator light came on and stayed on. Somehow I found the pattern that if I shift into neutral, the airbag light goes off in a few seconds and I can go back into gear, and then it comes back on later and I repeat the process.
If you are still reading, thanks. I figured detail helps. I have no idea if all these are their own independent problems, or symptoms of a bigger problem. Any help is much appreciated.
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Old 05-29-2010, 09:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That really does sound like an alternator problem. Crazy things can start happening when the voltage gets below 12.5V. The ECU and modules don't like it at all. As for your stereo system, are you using the remote wire so that the amp shuts off when the radio does? Don't try to power anything with the remote wire other than the amp(s). The current supply from the head unit is low and it may shut down on overcurrent. I found this out the hard way by wiring up a lightning rod to it. When it started to flash, my HU would shut off. Hopefully its not an internal power supply issue with teh amp.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the response. I don't actually have an amp yet. I've been buying the parts one at a time, so right now all i have is the head unit and some entry level speakers. As an update, i did a dark current test and when everything is powered off (and the radio is completely disconnected) it's pulling 105 milliamps. I still haven't found the time to pull fuses yet though. Thx again!
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Old 05-31-2010, 12:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovaloffice View Post
Thanks for the response. I don't actually have an amp yet. I've been buying the parts one at a time, so right now all i have is the head unit and some entry level speakers. As an update, i did a dark current test and when everything is powered off (and the radio is completely disconnected) it's pulling 105 milliamps. I still haven't found the time to pull fuses yet though. Thx again!
Good call on the test. Whats your voltage at with the car running? Just to clarify, are you using the stock +12V wiring or did you run your own to the battery?
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1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Interesting... i finally got around to checking fuses and circuits today, and when i redid the dark current test, it's reads about 25 milliamps. It seems whatever was drawing a large amount of power has fixed itself. By the way, the voltage with the car running is normal. I pulled the positive cable from the battery post while it was running and it continued running. As for testing it with a volt-meter, it showed a normal 13.8... so it doesn't seem to be a problem with the alternator or voltage regulator as far as i know (i'm not exactly an expert with these things). Also, for the constant 12v to my head unit i ran a cable directly to the battery, but for the ignition switch i tied into the 12v outlet.
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Old 06-03-2010, 08:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovaloffice View Post
Interesting... i finally got around to checking fuses and circuits today, and when i redid the dark current test, it's reads about 25 milliamps. It seems whatever was drawing a large amount of power has fixed itself. By the way, the voltage with the car running is normal. I pulled the positive cable from the battery post while it was running and it continued running. As for testing it with a volt-meter, it showed a normal 13.8... so it doesn't seem to be a problem with the alternator or voltage regulator as far as i know (i'm not exactly an expert with these things). Also, for the constant 12v to my head unit i ran a cable directly to the battery, but for the ignition switch i tied into the 12v outlet.
13.8V is a little low but not terrible. 14.2-14.5V is where you'd like to be. At the very least, the factory 12V memory and a solid ground should be used. You should only be running the red wire(12V power) to the battery by itself(for high power HU's). Some of the higher end heads need an 8 gauge +12V feed directly to the battery with an inline fuse. A harness adapter is easy to install and you can still run your own power wire to the battery. If you haven't cut up the factory harness, you may want to get one. They're about $10 and make the wiring painless since all wires are color matched. IIRC, the cig lighter and the radio use one fuse(15 amps) so if you lost the power to the 12v outlet, you will have lost the radio too. Toss me a little more info. What brand HU? Whats the power output? Did you blow any fuses?
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1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
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Last edited by 96paseo; 06-03-2010 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 06-04-2010, 09:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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it's a clarion cz100. The yellow wire runs directly to the battery with an in-line 15 amp fuse. It's a higher gauge than the rest and meant for main power/memory backup. The red just tells it when to turn on/off.

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IIRC, the cig lighter and the radio use one fuse(15 amps) so if you lost the power to the 12v outlet, you will have lost the radio too.
Yes, when the 12v outlet loses power, the radio shuts down. By shutting down, I mean that it shows the animation of turning it off with the power button. It doesn't lose main power, just the current telling it to stay on as if I had turned the car off. All presets etc. remain. No fuses are or were blown and given time, it works again. But it hasn't had this problem since the car 'fixed' itself a little while ago.
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Old 06-04-2010, 01:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ovaloffice View Post
it's a clarion cz100. The yellow wire runs directly to the battery with an in-line 15 amp fuse. It's a higher gauge than the rest and meant for main power/memory backup. The red just tells it when to turn on/off.



Yes, when the 12v outlet loses power, the radio shuts down. By shutting down, I mean that it shows the animation of turning it off with the power button. It doesn't lose main power, just the current telling it to stay on as if I had turned the car off. All presets etc. remain. No fuses are or were blown and given time, it works again. But it hasn't had this problem since the car 'fixed' itself a little while ago.
Ok. With that particular symptom, it seems like the HU is shutting down on overcurrent or overheat. It has been pretty hot lately. Hopefully it will stay 'fixed'. Was this a new or used unit? Do you still have the stock speakers or did you replace them? A shorted voice coil in one of the speakers could very well cause it to go into "self protect". I'd suspect a thermal problem since you said it takes time to start working again. Most car audio equip has built in thermistor(s) that won't allow the unit to restart until it cools down. Good luck.
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 264,xxx miles - New output shaft seals, Trans fluid service...
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles Underbody/frame resto in progress.
Find my DIY's or advice helpful? Don't forget to hit the "Thanks" button.
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