My 91 tercel is gardually starting to use more oil but it is still in really good shape so I figure it is worth it for me to rebuild the engine...Has anybody had good luck with a kit off ebay? The price is so cheap and it includes alot of parts. If I should stay away from those ones where else can a guy get a good kit? I think I would rather use the old pistons (re-ring) and just hone the cylinders instead of using new low quality pistons. Here is the kit I was looking at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-94...Q5fAccessories
I don't have a lot of experience in ordering parts from Ebay, mostly because it's not something that I would do. I've bought things from Ebay before, just not car parts. I would just rather spend the extra cash and buy it locally, that way if there are problems I can go and talk to a real person. $230.00 plus $120.00 for shipping... you could probably get all that for $100 more at an engine shop. Then you could talk to the dude there and pick his brain a little, since that's his job and he is the expert. Most guys are honest enough to let you know about that type of kit, good deal or not, good quality or not, etc, etc.
He will probably ask you all the important questions to make sure that you are on the right track. 1. why do you want to rebuild? 2. oil leaking or burning? 3. Valve seals or rings? 4. compression test said what? 5. Do you need new pistons? 6. do you have the tools to do the job? ridge reamer, honer, a good micrometer, straight edge, cleaning bath, scrapers and brushes, good torque wrenches, plastigauge and the list goes on.
I think I remember something about there being 3 different castings of blocks and you have to make sure that you get the right bearings for your block or you will be in trouble. Let me hit the books and look into it a bit, I'll get back to you on that. I might be out to lunch on that as well.....it's happened before.
Ok thanks for the info, let me know what you find. Ya most of the tools I have and the ones I dont my friends do. I have done a few chevy v8's so I have a good idea of what I am getting into. I am not in a major rush because it still runs nice. Maybe even just doing the gaskets and having the head rebuilt would be good enough. You are probably right about just buying the stuff from a local machine shop...Thanks again.
hmmmmmmm, I didn't seem to find anything to support my statement. I thought for sure that there was something different about the blocks in relation to the bearing clearances. Sorry, just another dude on the internet that's, "out to lunch", or "talking out of his ass". Use whichever phrase you like best.
Have fun with your rebuild.
My 91 tercel is gardually starting to use more oil but it is still in really good shape so I figure it is worth it for me to rebuild the engine...Has anybody had good luck with a kit off ebay? The price is so cheap and it includes alot of parts. If I should stay away from those ones where else can a guy get a good kit? I think I would rather use the old pistons (re-ring) and just hone the cylinders instead of using new low quality pistons. Here is the kit I was looking at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-94...Q5fAccessories
I did the ebay thing. I saved money. It took longer to get parts obviously, but then I didn't have to bum rides from friends to run around town looking for parts as most places didn't have everything. I rode the bus or my bike to work while I worked on the car.
E-bay parts are fine. I've used them a few times with no issues. Chances are your valve seals are leaking and burning oil. Get a headgasket kit and take your head to the machine shop to get it pressure tested and checked for straightness. Probably all you need. The only major (special) tools you'll need is a 12mm 12point bit tool and some torque wrenches. You can get the 12pt tool at Autozone. It's ok for a one or 2 time use thing.
E-bay parts are fine. I've used them a few times with no issues. Chances are your valve seals are leaking and burning oil. Get a headgasket kit and take your head to the machine shop to get it pressure tested and checked for straightness. Probably all you need. The only major (special) tools you'll need is a 12mm 12point bit tool and some torque wrenches. You can get the 12pt tool at Autozone. It's ok for a one or 2 time use thing.
My headbolt tool for a Canadian 3e-e was a JTC 1936 M9 bihexagonal .
Let me tell you about rebuilding a Toyota engine. Toyota blueprints everything however instead of adjusting the machines to make identical cuts each time they measure the cut made then match a set of bearings, rings and pistons. Generic kits are not the same as a true rebuild. To properly build any Toyota engine the whole thing needs to be sent to a machine shop. Let that shop get you the parts you'll need. Other wise you're going to end up with some tight bearings and some loose.
Let me tell you about rebuilding a Toyota engine. Toyota blueprints everything however instead of adjusting the machines to make identical cuts each time they measure the cut made then match a set of bearings, rings and pistons. Generic kits are not the same as a true rebuild. To properly build any Toyota engine the whole thing needs to be sent to a machine shop. Let that shop get you the parts you'll need. Other wise you're going to end up with some tight bearings and some loose.
Ok, Yes I agree with GTS on blueprintig the engine for the best durbility, but I have to disagree with a couple of comments made. First off a machine shop is not going to blueprint your engine unless you ask and the cost of doing this is expensive. They will build it within factory specs just as you would in your garage although yes, they would have much more experience at doing it.
Proper bluprinting is making the same cuts say on bearing journals and measuring multiple bearings until you have a mathched set of bearings that have the same clearence. Pistons would be measured to check to see if they are all the same diameter. You could measure 10 different pistons to get 4 that are the same for example. Rings, typically have to be cut to fit anyway so making sure all cuts on the rings are correct to give you the same size gaps on all pistons. Valves lengths are checked. Rocker ratios are measured. You could go through 100 rockers to find a good set that are the same exact ratio. Aftermarket rockers and such are typically already machined to tight specs and are considered blueprinted. Valve springs are compression tested to get matched spring rates. Rotating assembly needs to be balanced. The list goes on and is very time consuming. I know, I've done it with race engines that have to have stock parts. I think this is what GTS meant but I read it differently.
In my experience, I've rebuilt 2 (3E-E) engines from scratch. The cost for a good running engine to be rebuilt should be $250.
Here is the process, as cheaply as possible:
1.) Buy stock size (STD) piston rings for $20 on eBay. You do NOT replace pistons in an engine that runs good, especially the 3E-E engine. Even if there is a ridge, just putting in new piston rings will be fine.
2.) Have the machine shop hone the cylinder walls.
3.) Buy all new stock bearings from eBay, again STD size. This would be Rod bearings, Main bearings.
4.) Buy new timing belt from eBay.
5.) Buy Gasket kit with head gasket and valve stem seals, main oil seals, cam seal.
6.) Buy new water pump for good measure. Water pumps are NOT easy to replace on these engines.
Now, put on the new STD size piston rings on your old pistons, no need to install new pistons. Slam the pistons into the stock block. No need for the machine shop to bore the block. It just needs to be honed so the new rings will "seat." Clean the block deck surface with acetone, 90% alcohol or laquer thinner (not mineral spirits). You absolutely cannot put your fingerprints on the deck surface where the head gasket goes. If you get any oil on the head gasket, it could blow out. Do the same thing to the cylinder head. The cylinder head should be cleaned with solvent before placing it on top of the block.
To service the head, you will need to buy all new exhaust valves. The 3E-E eats exhaust valves, not sure why. The factory ones will not be worth reusing. I paid $4.50 each for mine off eBay and they lasted just fine. Put some valve lapping compound (can buy this at any auto parts store). Use a little suction cup and spin each valve back and forth while pushing the valve into the valve seat. This will remove any pitting on the valve seats and help the valves to seal. Wash the valve lapping compound off with solvent. Put new valve steam seals on using a small deepwell socket to push them on. Install the springs and camshaft with grease on the camshaft so as to prevent galling.
Buy new head bolts from eBay. The 3E-E uses strech bolts for the head, so you will need to replace the bolts everytime you change the head.
No need for a new oil pump, as the oil pump doesn't really wear out if the engine is still running good and hasn't been severely overheated or run low on oil. As a rule, if the engine doesn't knock, and if the engine doesn't have dry black chunks when you take off the oil fill cap on the valve cover, the oil pump is probably in tip top shape.
The oil pan will need to be GLUED on with a huge bead of black silicone. DO NOT try to use the stupid cork gasket, that won't seal. The factory uses black silicone, and you should too. Clean the surfaces with acetone, let them dry. Then turn the engine upside down and put a 1/4" bead all the way around the engine, put the oil pan on loosely and then snug up all the bolts hand tight until you see the silicone bulge out - but DO NOT tighten all the way. Let it dry overnight, then turn each bolt 1 turn to tighten them up. They do NOT need to be torqued. The silicone will seal the pan. Trust me, I've tried the cork gasket several times, and the silicone forms a 100% perfect seal, throw away the cork gasket.
I can answer more questions if you have any. I have a stock 3E-E now with an $8.00 eBay head gasket running with 10 PSI boost and hasn't had a problem for 3 years
I did my engine last fall using an ebay kit, parts were as good as oem, I was able to use a std. hex driver for the headbolts, but required supernatural help to finish with success.
the task was performed with the engine in the car, so the main bearings were left as is, since they were well within spec. The rod bearings were fine as well, but were replaced.
To hone the cylinders without contaminating the rest of the engine below, I made some plugs from thin plywood, and caulked them in with a water based(painters caulk)sealant, then used a Harbor freight hone on an electric drill with light oil.
All of the exhaust valves required re-grinding or replacement, and were hand lapped using valve lapping compound.
All of the oil seals were replaced except the rear main, some messing around was required to remove the crank pulley.
All of the clearances checked out fine(piston ring gaps)regardless of the slight difference in piston/bore sizes of the 4 cylinders from the factory. They were like a tenth of a millimeter or something, and it wasn't enough to come close to being out of spec. Rod bearings were plastiguaged, and were fine as well
Timing belt was purchased locally.
I now have $460 into the entire car.
Some of the rebuild kits on eBay come with the little clip springs for the rockers. What you want is a "cylinder head kit" for 3E-E.
There is no need to replace the valve springs of course. Just the rocker clips. And actually, I rebuilt my first 3E-E engine and reused the old rocker clips and it was fine. Just be careful not to damage them too much and you'll be fine.
cool thanks, apparetly i already have valve seals since i bought the FULL GASKET SET on ebay too , whats dissapointing is that the exhaust gaskets suckass, and are now leaking... I will remove the whole pipe and weld on holes if there is any
__________________ 1993 Toyota Tercel 3EE - 45,000 Miles - Odometer 280,000
*Leaking gas, Leaking Coolant, Non functoning AC, Sagging DS door. NEW TIRES!
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Discussion area for Tercel, Paseo, Starlet, and Sera
, whats dissapointing is that the exhaust gaskets suckass, and are now leaking... 
I will remove the whole pipe and weld on holes if there is any
Linear Mode
