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Old 06-26-2010, 02:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen5 Cluster swap and trans oil?

hi TN,

new member, looks like a nice community you have here. i recently bought a 99 tercel with the 3spd auto from a friend, i am a lowly student i couldnt afford my other car any longer .

i found a '98 paseo in a scrapyard, did some searches for the cluster swap and pulled up lots of info, but i'm still not totally clear on the procedure, probably because whats cloudy in my mind is obvious to everyone else:


Quote:
The '96 Paseo cluster moved into a 1997 Tercel results in NO temp gauge READING because with the stock Tercel cluster, the gauge is on the cluster's right side (in front of the "A" connector). The Tercel temp gauge is 'powered' by pins 8 and 9 of the "A" connector. * * * The Paseo temp gauge (in its natural habitat, on the LEFT side, in front of the "B" connector) was "powered" by pins B2 and B8 but, those pins are MISSING from the Tercel's "B" connector. * * * There are 2 possible fixes: FIX "A": If you DON'T intend putting the Tercel cluster back: Move the wire (and contacts) from A8 to B8 and A9 to B2 * * * FIX "B": If you DO Intend to replace Tercel cluster: Find a length of wire onto which you crimp contacts which will fit into the "B" connector and tie the other end to the respective wires on the "A" connector. By tying pins A8 to B8 and A9 to B2, no matter which cluster you put in, the temp gauge WILL WORK!
-from tercel reference.

if it ends up working, of course i'l end up keeping the paseo cluster, but how does swapping these wires work? do i just yank 'em out, plug em back in in their new ports and plug 'er all in? and with that ignitor wire, what's an easy way to splice, just shave away some insulation on one side till i get to the wire, and curl and solder the wire to the tach in place on top of it?

also, i wanted to do a partial trans fluid swap. i have some semi-syn dexron VI i wanted to use for it, without touching the filter or pan and it's gasket; i just plan on sticking a thin tube in thru the dipstick tube, siphoning what i can, and filling it back up. so i probably wont change out more than half, would it be enough to make the tranny start acting funny? i really dont have the money available to have a fluid flush/filter change done, but i would like to get more life out of it, and get it done properly at a later time (like when i have the money!). i have heard of just disconnecting one of the lines, draining it from there and refilling it with the other but i dont have much confidence in doing that.

i'm sorry if i'm asking really basic questions but if anyone has done this swap or changed your transaxle fluid before your comments are appreciated.
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You can use the Dex VI but Dex III is cheaper. DEX III can be had for about ~$20 per gallon. The only major difference is that Dex III is semi-synthetic and Dex VI is 100% synthetic. You can do a fluid exchange yourself with a couple containers and helper. First drain and refill the pan. Then remove the return line from the cooler and connect some 3/8" clear tubing. Run that to a collection bucket. Get a funnel setup on the trans dipstick tube. Now have your partner start the car. Pour in new fluid while the trans pumps out the old. Fluid should come out slightly faster than you can fill so stop the engine and catch up if you need to. Continue until the fluid in the clear tubing looks like new.
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i'm very happy to say the swap went very well! too easy, actually. as it turns out, rusty green '99 tercels come pre-wired for temp and gas! plugged 'er in and it worked like a charm, no soldering or splicing required. i used a cluster from a 98 paseo, but dont ask me what the green board number was or any options. i dunno.

also thought i'd add some advice for whoever brings this up on a search, i definitely could've used it.


if you need to do the wiring, its very easy to put the wire through the rubber grommet by stabbing it with a box cutter, then putting a dissected pen tube through the slot; gives you an easy way to see where the wire comes and holds open the hole. kinda like a tracheotomy without the blood and gurgled screaming.

a good source for the connectors/contacts is your scrapyard, as the cluster. find the appropriate carcass (or the car you're pulling the cluster from) and snip out the harness; then, just dissect/smash or press the pins on the connectors to free the wires and splice. the wire and contact just pull out and snap in.

for disconnecting the speedo cable, it is MUCH easier with a helper. all one must do is press on the clip while your partner grabs the cable from the engine bay and gives it a pull. pop!

back on is harder if anything. i tied a length of very cheap speaker wire (the plasticky thin stuff) behind the clip, then i stuck my left hand underneath to line up the clip to the speedo connector/thing. now hold the cluster in place with the left hand on the outside, pull rather hard on the wire with the right and it should pop on. i found i had to try a few different angles with the pulling the the cluster before it went on, but it did. tug on the cable from the engine bay to see it clicked on, and just snip away whats left and tuck it away. if you know some kind of complicated slip knot i'm sure you could take the wire/string out with you.


hopefully this helps someone. happy swapping!
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