92 toyota tercel no fire replaced items still no fire

[moore]

Hello everyone ,
I am stumped now and good. Replaced the distributor with one from auto zone, replaced ignitor, the ignition coil came with the distributor so cant be that either. I am not getting fire. Went down without any warning was running great with full power and no check engine light on before it went down either.

Another weird thing is the neg. side post and pos. side post of the ignition coil is hot .Checked with a test light. Never seen or heard of the ground side of anything being hot ! The shaft that the Rotor Button is on is hot too it lights up mthe test light with ground going to the motor and hot to the shaft and the post as I mentioned above.

I am out of what to go for next? Is there a Cam Shaft sensor on this 1.5 motor? A crank shaft sensor on it? I never heard of one on this car but out of ideas where my problem is. Please help will be most appreciated to anyone that can help that has had this problem. Like I said it went down fast. Started the car went 50 feet and died not to start again . Also I am getting gas checked that too. All wires are newtoo, plugs new, distributor cap is new. Forgot to mention above. Thanks, Moore Independence, Ms.

[bkftl]

My REPAIR MANUAL says this troubleshooting:

1. Engine rotates but will not start
2. Fuel empty
3. battery discharged
4. battery terminal connections loose or old
5. Brocken or stripped timing belt
6. ignition components damp or damaged
7. worn faulty or incorectly gaped sparkplugs
8. brocken or loose or disconnected wiring in the starting ciruit
9. loose distribtor is changing ignition timing
10. brocken loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil

Might be ur ECU too, it controls everything. When u enable the key into on, one right before u crank the engine with starter, does it turn on battery check engine and brake? if not it might be ecu

You might also have a short, thats hard to find, u might have to spend some time with a tester and check stuff for continuity afer u checked these


Coil aint supposed to be too hot, i dont think 1.5 has a cam shaft sensor, mine doesnt. Crankshaft also i dont think so, these cars are farely simple, they are MECHANICAL, the only electronic parts is the fuel injectors fuel rail, and the firing mechanism, the actual engine cranks with the timing belt and that moves both, ignitor goes to distributor and that goes to individual spark plugs, so u get properly timed firing.

U might have wrong timing but i dont think that would cause sudden error like that.

Id try taking it to a mechanic, they have to have that OLD ASS machene to test ur toyota with all the atachments, we cant do a new OBD2 machene or w/e its called, they HAVE to have the old one with different attachments, they can check code for you. That would be the EASISEST way to fix the problem.

I hope that helps, im not realy a pro though, tats just what i would do!

[WilliamRobert]

Any wire can get hot if there is enough corrosion on it or in the circuit. Corrosion causes resistance and a voltage drop. Resistance causes heat, think of the element on your stove. A voltage drop can cause the electronic components in your car to act funny or not turn on at all. Even ground wires can have this happen to them. Check all wires to see if they are loose, covered with green corrosion, or broken inside of the insulation. Loose wires or excessive resistance can cause fuses and relays to burn out, best to check those as well. if it was working fine then bang, it died, I would say fuse. If you changed something then it didn't work after, then undo what you did, or check to make sure that you didn't disconnect, break, pinch, something. if you like your money, I would suggest buying a manual, they are crazy cheap, and looking into it as much as you can yourself. It's better to take it to a mechanic knowing what the problem is not, it will save you some cash in the end.


BillyBob

[moore]

Thanks Billy Bob for the infro. Damn thing driving me crazy. must be a wire though or ecm. yes the check engine light comes on with key on and forgot to say the rotor is turning so the timing belt is out. Simple machine has me confussed.What fuses would cause no fire? I have Haynes Book but only good to a certain point maybe im the wrong point??

[bkftl]

Oh yeah, i use Non conductive electrode GOO, it works great, got it at autozone for like 5$ a tube, its in the liquid gasket maker section. If u add it it helps. Clean those electrodes! Well the relays are hard to diagnoss, check in the book im not sure, fuses can be checked by looking at em, the only fuses that would do that are located in the Engine bay, next to battery, the main relays are there too. Check that they fit, they might be coroded, check in the book how to pull em out, i coudnt get em out by just pulling em like a fuse

[Tercel GTS]

The coil is basically just that, a coil of wire. The power you are reading on ground side is coming through the coil. The ground side should get resistance in bursts as the engine turns. There is a cam sensor but it's inside the distributor. The white and black wires go to that sensor. The signal is sent to the ecu then sent back out to the ignitor. The ignitor then fires the coil. The coil gets a stead ignition on power supply and the ignitor breaks the signal with a negative pulse to fire the coil.

[moore]

Thanks for the wiring diagram been looking for one. Also thanks for explaining the coil why fire is on the ground side. Hey it makes sence to me. Also have fire on the shaft that the rotor Is this right?.This is all when the key is turned on before start. Hope I dont have a wiring problem which I know for me is hard to find without being good with the ohm meter.

Afraid I would drive someone crazy witout detailed information on testing the whole ignition system for a wire grounded out etc: