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#1 Old 09-19-2005, 10:54 AM
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Removing driver side cv axle

Hi
Anyone have any tips for removing this please? I am expecting the wheel-end splines to be tight as a tick, so I was thinking about putting the lugnuts back on the hold the rotor in place, then using a 3-jaw puller to force the splines out. Sound like a winner?
Thanks
Phil
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#2 Old 09-19-2005, 05:26 PM
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Do you have a manual? If not, it might be a good idea to get one.

Anyway, that is almost the way the manual says to do it.
The manual procerure has you remove the brake rotor and grip the hub with the puller, but that all depends on what size puller you have.

Good luck.

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#3 Old 09-19-2005, 05:47 PM
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None of the 3 Tercels I have had stuck axle splines. I would not use a puller though as you may pull the hub bearing apart. I'd take the axle nut loose, check to see if it is stuck and if so while the wheel is still on the ground pop the center of the axle shaft with a BFH.

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#4 Old 09-20-2005, 08:44 AM
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Hi
I got quite far into this last night. The splines were not stuck; just a gentle tap freed them up. One of the bolts holding the arm to the knuckle has stripped so I am going to have to drill that out, but so far that seems to be the only difficulty. Book does seem to have got it right on this one.
Thanks
Phil
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#5 Old 09-20-2005, 01:56 PM
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You can replace the ball joint instead of drilling. Shouldn't cost much nor be hard to knock out.

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#6 Old 09-20-2005, 02:08 PM
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Hi
I thought about that, but I found when I looked at it that the castellated nut on the balljoint is quite tight against the knuckle. Might be able to get a ring wrench on it, but certainly not a socket. I am wondering if this is not an indication that the ball joint needs to be replaced anyway???
I have had experience trying to smash out ball joints before and I found it much easier to borrow a press from Autozone and punch it out that way, but there certainly is not enough room to get a press over the top of this castellated nut, much less get a socket on the clamp. Ideas please?
Phil
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#7 Old 09-20-2005, 07:28 PM
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Remove the cotter pin, then as you said use a wrench on the nut to unscrew it. I'd get something solid to brace the hub on leaving the balljoint hanging, not touching anything. While the axle isn't in the hub you can use a very large punch to direct hammer blows directly to the ball joint stud. Make sure you use a large hammer, maybe even a short sledge.

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#8 Old 09-21-2005, 09:32 AM
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Hi
It is not the kind that you can press or smash out. The ball joint housing is actually part of a plate that bolts onto the control arm with 3 bolts on a 1991. One of these bolts is rounded off, so although I could separate the balljoint from the knuckle with a picklefork easily enough, I still would have a hard time getting the balljoint off because of this broken bolt. And using a picklefork would bust up the balljoint anyway, and these are not cheap if there was nothing wrong with the balljoint in the first place. The rubber is still intact, so presumably there is still grease in there.

I was going to remove the lower control arm with the balljoint and knuckle intact so I could turn it over and get at this broken bolt easier, but the bolts holding the control arm to the chassis are very tight and I am afraid of rounding them off.
Phil
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#9 Old 09-21-2005, 02:23 PM
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I'm saying I'd replace the ball joint in whole. Grind the head off the bolt and get a new one.

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