Decarbonizing the combustion chambers in my engine... - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

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post #1 of 24 Old 05-05-2017, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Decarbonizing the combustion chambers in my engine...

Decided to give it a try since the engine has been pinging while accelerating up a slight incline (overpass) after the engine has warmed up to operrating temp.

I've previously tried the Seafoam via the vacuum line (no real change and out $8), various other cleaning solutions in the fuel (BG44K $15), and really wanted a true and tried method to clean out the carbon build up without a whole lot of proceedures or costs.

Well, I've been doing a lot of research and reading and watched a ton of various videos fer the past few weeks on using water to decarbonize combustion chambers in the engine. I didn't like the fact that some were pouring water instead of metering it out. I decided I would make my own method that is truely repeatable and easily replicated fer zero costs!

If you have ever seen piccies of an engine's combustion chambers with a head gasket leak, you will notice how clean that chamber, pistons, and head surfaces were.

I used a 2 liter soda bottle as my supply tank. I drilled a hole in the cap with a 5/64" drill bit. I was only able to squeeze 1.25 cups of water out in 1 minute. That is a very small rate but will git the job done. I used tap water since the water here is very low in minerals. You can use distilled water if you are concerned with the mineral content of yer local water.

Take pictures of yer spark plugs' business ends and combustion chambers (if you have an endoscope) before you start the cleaning process so you can make comparisons of the changes.

Make sure yer engine is at operating temp.
Check yer oil level before you start.
Locate the charcoal canister evap outlet hose going to the air plenum right after the throttle plate. This will be the point that the water will be inserted. I've circled in red the vacuum points that I used.

My 5vzfe engine


My 3rzfe engine


Start the engine and find a method to keep the RPMs around 2500 RPMs. I used about a 1/2" thick pencil box cutter to wedge in between the throttle mechanism on my 5vzfe. (no photo) You might be able to use a 3/8" ratchet extension.

Pull the vacuum line from the charcoal canister evap outlet. The engine will rev up about 300 RPMs more.
Invert the 2 liter bottle and allow the water stream to enter the vacuum line. Keep the bottle about a 1/4" away from the hose opening. You can gently squeeze the bottle but there should be enough water flowing with the gravity feed. You may need to reinvert the bottle a few time to release the vacuum in the bottle by opening the cap and then tightening it back down before proceeding with the cleaning process. I guess you could punch a hole in the bottom portion of the bottle so you don't have to do that all the time.
If at any time the engine begins to bog down, stop the water flow and cap the vacuum line with yer finger or thumb and allow the engine to smooth back out.
Do not stick the hose onto the cap! You can easily suck in too much water.
Use the entire contents of the bottle. This may take about 10-15 minutes or longer.
Do not leave the vacuum line open without either capping it or flowing water into it fer any extended period of time. You can lean out the engine this way and may cause damage.
After emptying the bottle, reattach the vacuum line back on to the charcoal canister evap outlet.
Remove the item that you used to keep the throttle open with.
Go fer at least a 40 mile drive to evaporate any residual water in the oil.
Check yer oil level after shutting the engine off and letting the oil drain back down.
It would be recommended that you change yer oil and filter after this cleaning procedure

What a tremendous difference! Engine easily pulls without any pinging or hesitation! It has the power that one would expect from the first day off the lot! I would recommend this process at least once a year.

I'll be doing this process a couple more times in the next two weeks since I have over 480,000 miles on the engine.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block

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post #2 of 24 Old 05-05-2017, 11:05 AM
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Decided to give it a try since the engine has been pinging while accelerating up a slight incline (overpass) after the engine has warmed up to operrating temp.

I've previously tried the Seafoam via the vacuum line (no real change and out $8), various other cleaning solutions in the fuel (BG44K $15), and really wanted a true and tried method to clean out the carbon build up without a whole lot of proceedures or costs.

Well, I've been doing a lot of research and reading and watched a ton of various videos fer the past few weeks on using water to decarbonize combustion chambers in the engine. I didn't like the fact that some were pouring water instead of metering it out. I decided I would make my own method that is truely repeatable and easily replicated fer zero costs!

If you have ever seen piccies of an engine's combustion chambers with a head gasket leak, you will notice how clean that chamber, pistons, and head surfaces were.

I used a 2 liter soda bottle as my supply tank. I drilled a hole in the cap with a 5/64" drill bit. I was only able to squeeze 1.25 cups of water out in 1 minute. That is a very small rate but will git the job done. I used tap water since the water here is very low in minerals. You can use distilled water if you are concerned with the mineral content od yer local water.

Take pictures of yer spark plugs' business ends and combustion chambers (if you have an endoscope) before you start the cleaning process so you can make comparisons of the changes.

Make sure yer engine is at operating temp.
Check yer oil level before you start.
Locate the charcoal canister evap outlet hose going to the air plenum right after the throttle plate. This will be the point that the water will be inserted. I've circled in red the vacuum points that I used.

My 5vzfe engine


My 3rzfe engine


Start the engine and find a method to keep the RPMs around 2500 RPMs. I used about a 1/2" thick pencil box cutter to wedge in between the throttle mechanism on my 5vzfe. (no photo) You might be able to use a 3/8" ratchet extension.

Pull the vacuum line from the charcoal canister evap outlet. The engine will rev up about 500 RPMs more.
Invert the 2 liter bottle and allow the water stream to enter the vacuum line. Keep the bottle about a 1/4" away from the hose opening. You can gently squeeze the bottle but there should be enough water flowing with the gravity feed. You may need to reinvert the bottle a few time to release the vacuum in the bottle by opening the cap and then tightening it back down before proceeding with the cleaning process. I guess you could punch a hole in the bottom portion of the bottle so you don't have to do that all the time.
If at any time the engine begins to bog down, stop the water flow and cap the vacuum line with yer finger or thumb and allow the engine to smooth back out.
Do not stick the hose onto the cap! You can easily suck in too much water.
Use the entire contents of the bottle. This may take about 10-15 minutes.
Do not leave the vacuum line open without either capping it or flowing water into it fer any extended period of time. You can lean out the engine this way and may cause damage.
After emptying the bottle, reattach the vacuum line back on to the charcoal canister evap outlet.
Remove the item that you used to keep the throttle open with.
Go fer at least a 40 mile drive to evaporate any residual water in the oil.
Check yer oil level after shutting the engine off and letting the oil drain back down.
It would be recommended that you change yer oil and filter after this cleaning procedure

What a tremendous difference! Engine easily pulls without any pinging or hesitation! It has the power that one would expect from the first day off the lot! I would recommend this process at least once a year.

I'll be doing this process a couple more times in the next two weeks since I have over 480,000 miles on the engine.
Hey BZP, Not sure what your scanner shows you but did you collect data before and after just for grins?
In all your research was there a common reason Not to do it?
We used to do the same type thing to the Chevy V-8's we raced but we used ATF thru a vacuum port just under the carb Lots of White Smoke!
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post #3 of 24 Old 05-05-2017, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Hey BZP, Not sure what your scanner shows you but did you collect data before and after just for grins?
In all your research was there a common reason Not to do it?
We used to do the same type thing to the Chevy V-8's we raced but we used ATF thru a vacuum port just under the carb Lots of White Smoke!
My Ultragauge isn't showing me anything special...at least least not that I'm aware of. I'm only going by the seat of my pants and where the engine normally bogs down from pinging along my standard route taking my son to school every day. Now the engine comes alive at any time when I step on the gas. Like my AC mod, I would highly suggest that you do this if you want the power restored back to yer engine. The 5/64" hole isn't gonna allow too much water to enter the engine as long as you have the RPMs up. I'm sure my MPGs on this tank is gonna suck.

Most of the posts in other forums only used like a cup of water or less. There was an instance someone used a garden hose hooked up to their faucet and a power washer spray nozzle to restrict the flow on the other end. Many posters didn't believe the results or was too scared they would hydrolock their engine. Some used Seafoam while others used Marvel Mystery oil or Techron additives. I would say less than 5% of the posters actually went through with the attempt with water cleaning. I would guess that none of them would take the time to run 2 liters of water through their engine.
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post #4 of 24 Old 05-05-2017, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned the 1996 T-100 3rzfe engine today. I used a pair of scissors wedged about a 1/4" in between the adjustable stop and the dashpot. Using my Ultragauge, this set the engine to about 2500 RPMs.


Oil level didn't rise at all after the water cleaning procedure. I did use the entire contents of the 2 liter bottle. It took about a good 20 minutes to empty the bottle. No significant amount of water vapor in the exhaust. I haven't taken the truck back out after the cleaning but I will report back when I do.

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post #5 of 24 Old 05-05-2017, 10:39 PM
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Cleaned the 1996 T-100 3rzfe engine today. I used a pair of scissors wedged about a 1/4" in between the adjustable stop and the dashpot. Using my Ultragauge, this set the engine to about 2500 RPMs.


Oil level didn't rise at all after the water cleaning procedure. I did use the entire contents of the 2 liter bottle. It took about a good 20 minutes to empty the bottle. No significant amount of water vapor in the exhaust. I haven't taken the truck back out after the cleaning but I will report back when I do.
Maybe a small hole in the bottom of your water bottle like you mentioned and hang the bottle like a water I.V for your trucks enema!
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post #6 of 24 Old 05-06-2017, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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So a quick drive into Houston today with the cruise control set to my normal 65mph cruising speed and the one thing I noticed was that the engine didn't have to rev up super high to maintain speed. I'll have to see if this holds out true or not but I think when on cruise control the ECU kicks down the transmission when it detects a lot of pinging just to maintain speed going up a slight incline or hill.

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post #7 of 24 Old 05-06-2017, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe a small hole in the bottom of your water bottle like you mentioned and hang the bottle like a water I.V for your trucks enema!
I guess I'll have to build a hanger fer the bottle and see how well I can pull that design off. It should be able to hang off one of hood supports. Maybe a little funnel fer the hose, too! But that would mean there would be an associated cost fer cleaning yer engine. I guess you could call them upgrades...

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post #8 of 24 Old 05-09-2017, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Second cleaning was today. Drilled a 1/4" hole on the bottom of the 2 liter bottle, used some Tyvek tape to make a hanger strap with, used an S hook from a rubber tie down to hang it from, and used my scissors to keep the throttle open at 3000 RPMs. I kept the cap opening the same from the first cleaning.

Different setup this time around.



Kinda hard to line up the hole and the hose when yer taking a piccie!


This ought to do it!


Scissors wedged in...


I noticed that the water stream was diminishing as the bottle level was dropping because the pressure of the water was less as it was emptying out. I had to block the air relief hole with one finger and squeeze the bottle to increase the flow rate during the cleaning process a few times. So I've decided to increase the hole with a 3/32" drill bit fer the next cleaning to give me about a 1.25 cups per minute flow rate which seems to work well fer the 5vzfe engine. I'll probably keep different caps around fer different flow rates depending on the displacement size of the engine that's being cleaned.

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post #9 of 24 Old 05-09-2017, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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As I think about this, it would be easier to just use different 2-liter bottles with the flow rates listed on the sides so I can easily choose the proper tool to work with fer the engine I'm working on. It's not like I can't git more 2-liter bottles, right? As a matter of fact, I could just about any 1/2 gallon clear plastic bottle...like a juice bottle.
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As I think about this, it would be easier to just use different 2-liter bottles with the flow rates listed on the sides so I can easily choose the proper tool to work with fer the engine I'm working on. It's not like I can't git more 2-liter bottles, right? As a matter of fact, I could just about any 1/2 gallon clear plastic bottle...like a juice bottle.
Do you have plans to do this on a regular basis as part o your preventive maintenance program?
Have you driven either T100 enough miles to determine if it's been benificial.
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I'm not sure how long it takes to build up the carbon in the combustion chambers. Since I have a 2 stage oil catch system now (most people run only a single stage or none at all), I don't know if the blow by gasses were a major contributor to the build up. I am walking down a new path so I would have to go by my seat of the pants and clean when it started to ping on inclines or low RPM high torque situations. I think once every 6 months might be a good thing. It's not like it's gonna cost me a whole lot of cash to do it.

I can tell that the first cleaning made a super big difference although after the engine warmed up, there was still a little bit of pinging going on when I really stepped on the gas pedal. I made a medium run into Houston this past Saturday and there weren't any pinging issues at all. The power was really smooth and responsive. As I git more miles on this second cleaning, I'll have to see if my MPGs go up or not as long as I stay out of the gas pedal.

I can tell the exhaust smells a little different...not that I go around sniffing the exhaust all the time.

I guess if one does a lot of short trips with a ton of stop and go traffic, the carbon build up will be much greater than one who does a lot of highway runs.
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post #12 of 24 Old 05-16-2017, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Ran my third and final 2-liter bottle of tap water through the intake today using the 3/32" hole. It is too big! I had to cover the hole every 4-5 seconds to allow th water to pass through the vacuum line. Time to drain the bottle was just under 20 minutes at around 3000 RPMs.

The engine seems to be more responsive this time around with no pinging at all during my drive today. With the cruise control on, the engine never had to rev up at all to git over some of the slight inclines. I think this process is a keeper and a must do if you want yer engine response back.

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post #13 of 24 Old 05-16-2017, 05:38 PM
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Ran my third and final 2-liter bottle of tap water through the intake today using the 3/32" hole. It is too big! I had to cover the hole every 4-5 seconds to allow th water to pass through the vacuum line. Time to drain the bottle was just under 20 minutes at around 3000 RPMs.

The engine seems to be more responsive this time around with no pinging at all during my drive today. With the cruise control on, the engine never had to rev up at all to git over some of the slight inclines. I think this process is a keeper and a must do if you want yer engine response back.
That's encouraging! Keep us in the loop if you notice any change in your mpg or the condition of your oil next time you change it. My 3.4 is running like a top but I have to admit its not getting the mpg it used too. No pinging or odd noises or codes
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post #14 of 24 Old 05-16-2017, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Try accelerating from a stop or at a slow roll going up an incline...that's a good way to see if yer engine will ping or not. Low RPM, high torque.

It probably wouldn't hurt to do a cleaning. 5/64" drill bit and a 2-liter bottle. What more could you want?

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I've built a ton of small 3-5 hp engines and have tried to decarbon the head and top of pistons using many of the products sold. A couple of years ago I had a couple of identical engines that were so carboned up they were both really tough to start. I took off most of the sheet metal pieces to allow quick access to removing the head so I could do quick evaluations.

By far the best results achieved using more common techniques was from using water sprayed by a spray bottle directly into the throttle butterfly opening with the engine running. And even better was using a steam spray directly into the same opening. The best was putting on the protective gloves etc. and painting on paint/varnish remover directly on the carbon of the heads and piston while open. Takes it all off to shiny metal but the remover is wicked stuff.
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