Need Advice - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

T-100 Forum Discussion forum for the short-lived but extremely popular Toyota T-100 model.

 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 23 Old 05-14-2017, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Need Advice

Hello fellow Toyoters,

I just bought a 96 T100 SR5 4X4 Manual. It has 304xxx miles and has seen better days, but the price was right for me and I figured I can work with it. The seller told me that it needs a new rear axle, as not only does it leak gear oil out of the center cover, it appears that the axle tubes have been cracked right by the spring perches. There is very noticeable vibration in the whole truck when it is under power (accelerating and decelerating in gear), but there is no vibration when idling or coasting in neutral. I revved the engine up a little in neutral and it did not vibrate, so I'm guessing that engine and transmission mounts are out of the question. This leaved u-joints, driveshaft, or rear end.
This is my conclusion, but I am curious if I have missed anything. Maybe this is a common issue with these trucks, but my search on this forum proves otherwise. Please advise me as to what my options and possible plans of action are. Thank you all for your time.
T2-1G is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 23 Old 05-14-2017, 03:29 PM
T100 Road Warrior...
 
BamZipPow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 10,778
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 484 Post(s)
Thanks: 2,731
Thanked 3,331 Times in 2,631 Posts
Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Welcome to the forums!

Do you know when or if the clutch has ever been serviced?

A common issue is the driveline not gitting greased properly. If after you've greased all the driveline zerks and the issue still exists, you can pull the driveshaft and check the U-joints fer a smooth operation. If it's jerky or stiff, they will need to be replaced.

How good is the center support bearing? Could you shoot some video of the vibration issue and post it?

It's a common issue with the rear axle housing to crack on the 4WD T-100 trucks. There's a few aftermarket option fer replacement but they aren't cheap. You can also have the housing welded up but depending on how much you go 4 wheeling, the cracked housing will pribably reappear again.

Since the housing was compromised, I would venture to guess that the differential and bearings have been compromised as well. You might be able to find a used rear setup near you by using www.car-part.com. If it has to be shipped, it's not gonna be cheap. Just so you know, the T-100 rear housing is unique to the T-100 and no other housing will work...just in case yer gonna ask.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
BamZipPow is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BamZipPow For This Useful Post:
SC T100 (05-17-2017), T2-1G (05-14-2017)
post #3 of 23 Old 05-14-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
Welcome to the forums!

Do you know when or if the clutch has ever been serviced?

A common issue is the driveline not gitting greased properly. If after you've greased all the driveline zerks and the issue still exists, you can pull the driveshaft and check the U-joints fer a smooth operation. If it's jerky or stiff, they will need to be replaced.

How good is the center support bearing? Could you shoot some video of the vibration issue and post it?

It's a common issue with the rear axle housing to crack on the 4WD T-100 trucks. There's a few aftermarket option fer replacement but they aren't cheap. You can also have the housing welded up but depending on how much you go 4 wheeling, the cracked housing will pribably reappear again.

Since the housing was compromised, I would venture to guess that the differential and bearings have been compromised as well. You might be able to find a used rear setup near you by using www.car-part.com. If it has to be shipped, it's not gonna be cheap. Just so you know, the T-100 rear housing is unique to the T-100 and no other housing will work...just in case yer gonna ask.
Thank you for getting back to me. According to the seller the clutch was replaced less than two years ago, or around 25,000 miles ago. With that said, the throwout bearing is making a whining noise, so I think it may have been more. It's not slipping at all, though, and seems to have plenty of life left in it.
I will try to film the vibration and put it up here, but I am technologically challenged, so no promises there.
You have mentioned aftermarket solutions to the structural failures of the factory rear axle. Any suggestions what companies to look at? Depending on the cost, this may be the better solution.
T2-1G is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 23 Old 05-14-2017, 05:51 PM
T100 Road Warrior...
 
BamZipPow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 10,778
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 484 Post(s)
Thanks: 2,731
Thanked 3,331 Times in 2,631 Posts
Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Wink

Diamond axle is one...
http://www.diamondaxle.com/rear_nonsteering.htm


Here's an axle in Houston fer $100!
https://houston.craigslist.org/pts/6088953679.html

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
BamZipPow is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to BamZipPow For This Useful Post:
T2-1G (05-14-2017)
post #5 of 23 Old 05-14-2017, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Thank you BamZipPow. Too bad I don't live close to Houston. Also, the ad does not specify if it's a 2wd or 4x4 axle. Speaking of which, how can I find out what ratio my diff is?
T2-1G is offline  
post #6 of 23 Old 05-14-2017, 09:15 PM
T100 Road Warrior...
 
BamZipPow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 10,778
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 484 Post(s)
Thanks: 2,731
Thanked 3,331 Times in 2,631 Posts
Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Wink

The axle is from a 4WD as the spring perches are on top. The 2WD axle has the speing perches on the bottom.

The easiest way is to mark the drive shaft and count the number of rotations you make on the wheel. Of course you will have to jack the vehicle up and put the transmission in neutral to do this.

The other method is to locate yer VIN and decode it using the website below.
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ARJANUARY.html

Keep in mind that if the previous owner(s) regeared the differentials, this code is no longer valid. Hence why it would be more accurate to count the number of rotations of the wheel instead.
beerhunt likes this.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
BamZipPow is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BamZipPow For This Useful Post:
SC T100 (05-17-2017), T2-1G (05-16-2017)
post #7 of 23 Old 05-16-2017, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
The axle is from a 4WD as the spring perches are on top. The 2WD axle has the speing perches on the bottom. j

The easiest way is to mark the drive shaft and count the number of rotations you make on the wheel. Of course you will have to jack the vehicle up and put the transmission in neutral to do this.

The other method is to locate yer VIN and decode it using the website below.
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ARJANUARY.html

Keep in mind that if the previous owner(s) regeared the differentials, this code is no longer valid. Hence why it would be more accurate to count the number of rotations of the wheel instead.
Thank you once more.
T2-1G is offline  
post #8 of 23 Old 05-22-2017, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Sorry for taking so long, but it was an eventful week at work. Finally climbed under the truck and took pictures of the axle tubes. It looks like the U-bolts were overtightened when the previous owner had the shock absorbers changed out. This collapsed the axle tubes. Is my theory plausible?
I'm currently talking with several dismantlers nearby to try and source a 4x4 rear end.

Another random question-it seems that my front axle hubs are not manually locking, as there is no mechanical provision to lock them manually. How do I engage 4L/4H properly. Sorry for the noob question, but as I have said, I am new to the 4x4 scene.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0379.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	1,010.9 KB
ID:	125698   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0380.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	863.1 KB
ID:	125706  
T2-1G is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to T2-1G For This Useful Post:
BamZipPow (05-22-2017), SC T100 (05-23-2017)
post #9 of 23 Old 05-23-2017, 07:18 AM
Soylent Green sales
 
fourwd1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: the Socialist State of Maryland
Posts: 11,020
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Thanks: 30
Thanked 695 Times in 642 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Your 4WD should have Toyota's ADD system, which has no hubs.
The front axle uses vacuum actuators to switch it between 2WD and 4WD when you put the truck in 4WD.
You can buy manual hubs to convert it.

_No THANKs necessary !
84 4Runner rockcrawler - ARBed 5.29's, 36" TSLs, dual t-cases w/4.7 crawler gear, Chevys, 30 spline Marlins
83 p/u trail rig - Buick 231 V6, Weiand intake, Holley 4 bbl, TH-350 auto w/700R4 low gearset, dual tanks ...
89 4Runner - stock
http://www.cardomain.com/id/fourwd1
fourwd1 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to fourwd1 For This Useful Post:
T2-1G (05-23-2017)
post #10 of 23 Old 05-23-2017, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwd1 View Post
Your 4WD should have Toyota's ADD system, which has no hubs.
The front axle uses vacuum actuators to switch it between 2WD and 4WD when you put the truck in 4WD.
You can buy manual hubs to convert it.
Would converting to manual hubs be adventageous vs keeping the ADD system?

In unrelated news, I got a replacement rear end today. A guy delivered it for a small fee. Looks much better than the one on the truck(axle tubes not crushed, not covered in gear oil). He said it's out of a T100 that had an automatic transmission, so the gears are most likely taller, but seeing as how the truck will mainly see street use, I think this is not necessarily a bad thing.
T2-1G is offline  
post #11 of 23 Old 05-23-2017, 09:15 PM
Soylent Green sales
 
fourwd1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: the Socialist State of Maryland
Posts: 11,020
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Thanks: 30
Thanked 695 Times in 642 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
Converting for manual hubs would create less drag on the front end, increasing Mpg a tad and reducing wear. To get the most benefit you'd swap out the front axle for a non-ADD one too.
Google and you find info on it.

As for the lower (numerically higher) ratio of the gearing for the diff from the auto trans, you might like it, especially if you might want taller tires.

_No THANKs necessary !
84 4Runner rockcrawler - ARBed 5.29's, 36" TSLs, dual t-cases w/4.7 crawler gear, Chevys, 30 spline Marlins
83 p/u trail rig - Buick 231 V6, Weiand intake, Holley 4 bbl, TH-350 auto w/700R4 low gearset, dual tanks ...
89 4Runner - stock
http://www.cardomain.com/id/fourwd1
fourwd1 is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to fourwd1 For This Useful Post:
T2-1G (05-25-2017)
post #12 of 23 Old 05-24-2017, 12:21 AM
T100 Road Warrior...
 
BamZipPow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 10,778
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 484 Post(s)
Thanks: 2,731
Thanked 3,331 Times in 2,631 Posts
Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Wink

You can confirm the ratio by marking the differential flange and one of the axle flanges and then rotating the axle until the differential flange has completed one rotation.

You can also swap yer third member out of yer current axle into the new axle.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
BamZipPow is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to BamZipPow For This Useful Post:
T2-1G (05-25-2017)
post #13 of 23 Old 05-24-2017, 08:13 AM
Senior TN Member
 
SC T100's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SC Lowcountry
Posts: 1,849
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 97 Post(s)
Thanks: 1,531
Thanked 941 Times in 620 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
What they said! Good find on the axle. Be aware though if the gearing is different in the new axle and you don't swap in your existing third, you could do some real damage if you engage 4wd (the front and rear tires will want to spin at different speeds, while the transfer case wants them to be the same which will bind the transfer case). If the gear is very close, and you're on very loose material it might not be a problem, but on anything with decent grip you could run into problems.

Also, check the vacuum lines and actuator for the front driveshaft. Engage 4wd, then rap on the actuator a bit to see if it unsticks (they can corrode a bit and get stuck if not used somewhat regularly). The 4WD light should come on once it's engaged.


'97 Extra Cab 3.4 4x4 5sp 102K and counting...
Aisin hubs, Marlin shifter bushings, a few fellow TN member mods, and lots of elbow grease.
SC T100 is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to SC T100 For This Useful Post:
BamZipPow (05-24-2017), T2-1G (05-25-2017)
post #14 of 23 Old 05-25-2017, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwd1 View Post
Converting for manual hubs would create less drag on the front end, increasing Mpg a tad and reducing wear. To get the most benefit you'd swap out the front axle for a non-ADD one too.
Google and you find info on it.

As for the lower (numerically higher) ratio of the gearing for the diff from the auto trans, you might like it, especially if you might want taller tires.
Thanks for the advice. By taller, I meant numerically lower, better for highway gas mileage, not so good for big tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
You can confirm the ratio by marking the differential flange and one of the axle flanges and then rotating the axle until the differential flange has completed one rotation.

You can also swap yer third member out of yer current axle into the new axle.
I'll definitely try to confirm the ratio this weekend, before I swap the rear in. Swapping the diff is a very real option, as I would prefer a better matched diff than better mileage (I have an Accord for mileage) to my transmission and front axle.

Any pointers for aftermarket stull, like LSD or lockers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SC T100 View Post
What they said! Good find on the axle. Be aware though if the gearing is different in the new axle and you don't swap in your existing third, you could do some real damage if you engage 4wd (the front and rear tires will want to spin at different speeds, while the transfer case wants them to be the same which will bind the transfer case). If the gear is very close, and you're on very loose material it might not be a problem, but on anything with decent grip you could run into problems.

Also, check the vacuum lines and actuator for the front driveshaft. Engage 4wd, then rap on the actuator a bit to see if it unsticks (they can corrode a bit and get stuck if not used somewhat regularly). The 4WD light should come on once it's engaged.
Thank you. Great advice here. I'm still a ways from testing the 4x4, just want it to run somewhat reliably on pavement for now in order to haul stuff. I'm seriously contemplating swapping the diff for the factory one, but will try to see what the new rear has in it now (new to me lol).
T2-1G is offline  
post #15 of 23 Old 05-26-2017, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Fellow members, I'm planning on swapping in the new rear end this weekend. Anything I should be aware of that is specific to these trucks? The removel process should be: break loose wheel nuts; jack up rear of truck and support it; take off wheels; remove driveshaft; support rear end with jack; unbolt U-bolts; undo any fasteners that may still hold the rear end(brake lines, handbrake cables, etc.); lower rear end. Assembly will be the reverse of dissassembly. Anything else? I know I should have a Chilton's or something, but I really want to get this done and nobody locally has a manual for the T100. Next amazon purchase will include one, though.
T2-1G is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Truck, SUV and Van Forums > T-100 Forum

Bookmarks

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
Back