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post #1 of 15 Old 05-14-2017, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Misfired

Just right be4 smog the truck has a mis fire on cylinder 2 so what I did was charge put the spark plug and still acting the same, so swap the coils around by numbering it and still doesn't works so I put it back. Now it say two more cylinder are misfiring. This is out of the 3.4L 5vz. 97 sr5 Automatic. About 3-4 year it happened be4 but it was the spark plug and yes I'm using the NGK with the two ground teeth. What to do now. Money tight so if no luck I'm talking it in. I'm think coil pack but still have to change the wires out but who knows
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post #2 of 15 Old 05-14-2017, 09:03 PM
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Even numbered misfires on the 5vzfe engine is usually the spark plug wires. Check to make sure the wire isn't rubbing along the valve cover or any brackets and grounding the spark out. Any white marks on the wire insulation is a key indicator of the spark gitting out to ground.

What wire set do you have on there now? I had the AutoZone Duralast set and they seemed to last about a couple of years before they fail.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block

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post #3 of 15 Old 05-14-2017, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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I'll look into it but I'm sure it may be the wires because it's been who knows how long since I've changed it and all I remember was it was from Napa. However the coil pack, the rubber booth from the inside does have the white things from the inside.
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post #4 of 15 Old 05-14-2017, 11:54 PM
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The coil boots can be replaced if they are cracked.

Previous thread I posted...
Replacing the Coil on Plug spark plug boots...

You might need this tool if yer plug wire boots are fused to the spark plug.
Spark plug boot removal tool...

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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post #5 of 15 Old 05-15-2017, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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So today I went out to buy a set of plug and as you know the truck starts up fine now, however as I took it out for a drive... As I press gas the truck chokes like it's going to die but as I leave it in "P" the truck sound normal, even as I pull the throttle cable. As I start to drive it chokes and the check engine and the A/T tran light comes on as the truck chokes. Is this due to cleaning the throttle body and the idle control? I'm loss now for sure
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post #6 of 15 Old 05-15-2017, 10:49 PM
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Cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve shouldn't cause the engine to choke and die like that. Did the Check Engine light flash when the engine started dying? If it did, that's a key indicator of a misfire.

Previous thread using search...
Check Engine light flashing when accelerating...

I've not seen the A/T Temp light come on before when an engine chokes out. The best thing to do is to pull the codes with an OBDII reader/scanner. Report back with the exact codes, please.

When did the throttle body and IAC valve git cleaned? Was this recently? What method was used to clean them? Spraying the cleaner down the openings or were they both removed and physically cleaned?

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post #7 of 15 Old 05-15-2017, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
Cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve shouldn't cause the engine to choke and die like that. Did the Check Engine light flash when the engine started dying? If it did, that's a key indicator of a misfire.

Previous thread using search...
Check Engine light flashing when accelerating...

I've not seen the A/T Temp light come on before when an engine chokes out. The best thing to do is to pull the codes with an OBDII reader/scanner. Report back with the exact codes, please.

When did the throttle body and IAC valve git cleaned? Was this recently? What method was used to clean them? Spraying the cleaner down the openings or were they both removed and physically cleaned?

About 48hrs ago when I did the cleaning after installing back, it was very high @ 2k RPM and throw code for that & took it off and double check and the code went off but now installing new wires same good but than to what I was talking about 👆👆👆
My last is the fuel injecter... Or timing belt.
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post #8 of 15 Old 05-15-2017, 11:33 PM
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So you removed the IAC valve from the bottom of the throttle body to clean it? Did you cycle the IAC vane to make sure it moved the full range after you cleaned it? How badly coated was it?

So after installing the new wires, you still have a misfire on cylinder 2? Are the wires installed correctly? The wire set should be 3 cylinders apart. The coil packs are the odd numbered cylinders while the wires are the even cylinders.
1-4
3-6
5-2

Which brand wire set did you git?

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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post #9 of 15 Old 05-16-2017, 04:03 AM Thread Starter
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So you removed the IAC valve from the bottom of the throttle body to clean it? Did you cycle the IAC vane to make sure it moved the full range after you cleaned it? How badly coated was it?

So after installing the new wires, you still have a misfire on cylinder 2? Are the wires installed correctly? The wire set should be 3 cylinders apart. The coil packs are the odd numbered cylinders while the wires are the even cylinders.
1-4
3-6
5-2

Which brand wire set did you git?
Yes everything is correct. I only took the wire out one by one at a time & measure the same length. I just went to AutoZone and got the $40 one. As for the IAC, It wasnt too bad but at times it causes my rpm to jump up & doen, or the rpm will be dead like the truck isn't on. But when driving it the rpm will be a normal movement but once I make a stop it goes to zero. Not just that the truck will keep switching gear as once going up hill or trying to pass a car. Since I made the cleaning to the IAC, it doesn't do that anymore.
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post #10 of 15 Old 05-16-2017, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all OP for the help & much appreciate it and please Charming in.
Hears what I've did

I've owned this T100 about or more than 20 years & still the original motor. Got it back in 1999 with 20K mileage this may be the 3rd time it mis fire
1- is either the power of the battery Wire wasn't tight enough, because so time I've have to give it a Jump. However I tighten it up due to trying to start it up and click no power.

2- I forgot to tighten up the little ground wire that is above the oil cap but left hand from the Diagnosed relay. "If that how you call it"

3- the coil pack on the 5th cylinder bolt/screw was somewhat strip. So I've gave it a new screw and tighten up.

4- thanks to my great buddy for telling that Maybe to check my mass air flow sensor so I've gave it some of the CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner to clean it out/off

5- I took the Coil pack out and unplug the plug wire from the Coil and just the spark plug wire that hooks up to the coil off & spray ALL with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner long with this it also spray the mass air flow plug that connect to hardness & hardness connect. Last I took the IAC & MAP Sensor off and gave it a good spray.

http://

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post #11 of 15 Old 05-17-2017, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RubiconWarriorT100 View Post

2- I forgot to tighten up the little ground wire that is above the oil cap but left hand from the Diagnosed relay. "If that how you call it"
Those brown wires are the grounds fer the injectors. Why was this bolt loose? Are all the contact surfaces clean and free of dirt and corrosion? Have any of those wires been damaged? Snap some piccies of that area and post them, please.

Has any maintenance been performed prior to this condition?

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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post #12 of 15 Old 05-17-2017, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Those brown wires are the grounds fer the injectors. Why was this bolt loose? Are all the contact surfaces clean and free of dirt and corrosion? Have any of those wires been damaged? Snap some piccies of that area and post them, please.

Has any maintenance been performed prior to this condition?
I took it off because I was changing out the sparkwire and which I tend to forgot about it. And thanks I never knew those ground are for the injector. Everything is well taken care of and now she back on the road but now I just have to take care of that squeezing belt. And some other parts like tie rod and steering damper again due to coming on a stop the truck has that kind of bumping stop when try to stop. Plus I have to do a drive shaft carried bearing. So much work to be done with this lovely truck.
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post #13 of 15 Old 05-17-2017, 02:07 PM
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So you don't have the misfire issue anymore?

BTW, how many miles do you have on yer truck?

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post #14 of 15 Old 05-19-2017, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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So you don't have the misfire issue anymore?

BTW, how many miles do you have on yer truck?
Thanks no more misfire but they T100 has 270xxx with no rebuild yet
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post #15 of 15 Old 05-19-2017, 11:14 PM
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Great to hear!

Give my decarbonization method a try...
Decarbonizing the combustion chambers in my engine...

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