1996 T100 Base 2.7 Manual Trans won't start - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

T-100 Forum Discussion forum for the short-lived but extremely popular Toyota T-100 model.

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post #1 of 28 Old 05-19-2017, 03:37 AM Thread Starter
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1996 T100 Base 2.7 Manual Trans won't start

Hello, My name is Vern and I have two 1996 T100 base pick ups with the 2.7 liter and Manual Transmissions. Here's my problem! I drove to the store and when I returned I went to start my truck and it turned over, but never even attempted to start. Strong battery, but I noticed that the engine light would not illuminate when I turned the key to the on position. I just happen to have my code reader with me and when I plugged it in the ODB2 it could not established a link to the ECM. I checked the ignition fuse, good, swapped out The EFI relay with my running 96, ( Yes I have 2 1996 T100 trucks ) and still no engine light on the dash. I checked the wiring diagram and most everything passes thru the EFI relay. I read about a ECM power relay but can't find it in the wiring schematics. Does anyone have any ideas if this power relay exists and if so, where its located? It's strange I lost the power to illuminate the engine light on the dash, and yes it was working previously. Please, any help would be appreciated. All the parts I swapped from my white T100 to my Gray T100 are in working order because I'm driving the Gray one. I even swapped ECM's because my white truck kept throwing a P0402 code and everything has been checked and seems to be in working order, so I put it in the Gray truck to see if I could duplicate the code and so far the answer is no. So there is no problem with either of the ECM's both working as they should. Well that's another issue for later on. Right now I need to find out why I lost power to the engine lite on the dash. Yes it turns over fine but no fire from the ECM.
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post #2 of 28 Old 05-19-2017, 07:15 AM
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Welcome to Toyota Nation Vern.
I'm going to move your question to the T100 section.
You'll get some help there.
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post #3 of 28 Old 05-19-2017, 11:38 AM
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Welcome to the forum, Vern!

Check yer EFI 15A fuse located in the engine bay fuse box. It provides power to the ECU and fuel pump.

Another quick test to see if that circuit is gitting power all the way through is to test the B+ terminal in the engine bay Diagnostics port fer 12VDC power.

Just as a quick note, if yer EFI fuse keeps blowing, there is a good chance that yer fuel filter is clogged up and causing the fuel pump to draw more amps because of the resistance. Just don't think about putting in a bigger fuse...don't do it.
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post #4 of 28 Old 05-19-2017, 11:44 AM
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P0402...
P0402 Code - Toyota
Excessive EGR flow
https://parts.olathetoyota.com/p0402-code-toyota

As far as I know, there isn't an ECU "power" relay. Maybe the Intergration relay is what they are referring to?

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post #5 of 28 Old 05-19-2017, 11:46 AM
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Just so you know, the fuel filter fer the 3rzfe engine is located just below the intake manifold.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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post #6 of 28 Old 05-20-2017, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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I have two 1996 T 100 Base and I swapped out the EFI relay found under the hood drivers side and made no difference on my white T100. Both worked fine on the Gray truck so I believe both EFI relays are indeed working. I checked the 7.5amp ignition fuse found behind the kick panel drivers side, not blown. When you insert the key and turn it to the " On " position the engine light comes on till the truck is started. Well in my case, with the key in the On position, the engine light does not come on as before. When I hook up my scanner to the ODB II connector it does not make a connection to read codes. It did prior to me shutting the truck off. It was running and driving prior to just shutting it off to go into Harbor Freight, came out and no fire, no engine light when turned to the on position, yet it turns over just fine, just doesn't even act like it wants to fire up. Damndest thing I have ever seen. I'm at a total loss. I have reviewed the electrical diagram and understand the path the voltage has to take to the ECU or ECM. Hell I even swapped the ECM's and it won't fire. My Gray truck is running fine with the EFI relay and ECM from my dead white T100. I do hope someone has some kind of advise about what I'm not seeing or doing to just get it to start again. I love both my T100 but the white one has been more of a pain and might have to go.
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post #7 of 28 Old 05-20-2017, 12:34 PM
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Howdies, Vern!

Did you happen to read my previous post? I believe the issue is a blown EFI 15A fuse located in the engine bay fuse box. It provides power to the fuel pump/relay as well as the ECU. If yer Check Engine light isn't lighting up when you first turn the key to the On position, that would be a telltale sign that the fuse is compromised/blown.

Keep in mind that if yer popping that fuse, there may other issues that caused that fuse to blow...namely a clogged/restricted fuel filter.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block

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post #8 of 28 Old 05-20-2017, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Just returned from the shop and the 15amp fuse was good. Matter of fact all the fuses under the hood as well as the left kick panel were intact and good. Found no blown fuses. No fire from the plug wire and I'm sure there is no fuel pressure because the pump is not getting a signal ( voltage ) when I turn the key to the on position. Bad ignition switch? Don't want to keep throwing parts at it just to get the same results. Sure points to a fuse as it was instant. running, turned the engine off, came back and slipped the key in the ignition, depressed the clutch pedal, turned the engine over and never even acted like it wanted to start. Just spun over as nice as could be. I'm just lost, I need the full electrical diagram which is a separate book EWD26U. Haven't cried in many years, but about too if I can't get a grip on this issue.
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post #9 of 28 Old 05-20-2017, 05:17 PM
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Did you test fer 12VDC at the B+ test port on the Diagnostic port in the engine bay? This is with the key in the ON position. Is yer Check Engine light lit when the key is in the ON position?

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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post #10 of 28 Old 05-20-2017, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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I thought I had my volt meter in the glove box but it was not there, so No I didn't check any voltage. Not sure where to check at the moment but will look in my PDF book for the exact location.
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post #11 of 28 Old 05-20-2017, 06:17 PM
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Here's the reference piccies so you can see where the +B port is.



A reference piccie fer you.

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post #12 of 28 Old 05-20-2017, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Will drive back to the shop tomorrow and check to see if there is 12v there. For the sake of discussion, if there is 12vdc at the B+ terminal then what? And if there is no voltage then what? To just perform one test each trip is not going to work well for me. Is that diagnostic receptacle fused? Is that for a Toyota test unit? I sure appreciate all this help and pictures. Thanks Vern
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post #13 of 28 Old 05-21-2017, 12:18 AM
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If the EFI fuse is good and sending 12VDC power and it's not showing up at the ECU or at the +B port, then the breakdown is in the harness. The ECU receives 12VDC power at all times from the EFI fuse to maintain the ECU's memory fer things like the fuel maps and soft/hard set trouble codes.

You will need to make absolutely sure the EFI fuse is good before proceeding on hunting where the power isn't making it. How was the current EFI fuse checked? Visually? Electrically? Continuity? Replaced with a new one?

Did this vehicle have any fuel pump or electrical power issues before? When you swapped the ECUs, did you notice if any of the wires on the connectors were melted or sticking together?

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block

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post #14 of 28 Old 05-21-2017, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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The fuse was pulled and checked visually, but today I have my volt meter and will check the voltage where the fuse plugs into. A blown fuse is easy to detect as you well know. Tell me: since I have all the rest of the idiot lights on the dash working like the engine oil, seat belt, emergency brake light,but no engine light, does the circuit run thru the light? I have encountered a problem before on a Ford Ranger air bag code due to the fact the bulb was out which disarmed the air bag. replaced the bulb and all system was a go again. I would be surprised if that applied here but have to ask. Am I correct to assume the voltage goes to the switch then once turned to the " on " position thru the EFI relay on to the ECU. My code reader does not work in the ODB II plug as well but did just hours earlier. Says it cannot establish a connection and the 7.5 amp fuse in the kick panel is good as well. Could the ignition switch be bad even tho I can crank the engine over? Well here goes, back to the shop and will be giving an update.
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post #15 of 28 Old 05-21-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Just checked fuse with test light GOOD. Checked the B+ terminal at the diagnostic plug. No power with key on. Check the Gray truck and with key on had power. So where does the diagnostic plug get its power? Does it go thru the EFI relay before the plug? I wish I had a schematic.
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