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#1 Old 09-17-2012, 02:09 PM
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Used T100 - Oil Leak Question

I'm looking at a T100 SR5 with 180,000 miles AT- there is a slow Oil Leak on the lower section of the motor(haven't seen the leak yet) and the seller says his mechanic states the labor would be $1,800 as the engine needs to be pulled to get to it. Wondering if this is a common issue, anyone know by the desciption what it might be and if there is a less costly way to resolve the leak? I like the truck, but this is enough to make we wait for another. I can get it for $2,000-2,500.00.

Last edited by gergg; 09-17-2012 at 02:11 PM.
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#2 Old 09-17-2012, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gergg View Post
I'm looking at a T100 SR5 with 180,000 miles AT- there is a slow Oil Leak on the lower section of the motor(haven't seen the leak yet) and the seller says his mechanic states the labor would be $1,800 as the engine needs to be pulled to get to it. Wondering if this is a common issue, anyone know by the desciption what it might be and if there is a less costly way to resolve the leak? I like the truck, but this is enough to make we wait for another. I can get it for $2,000-2,500.00.
It's the main seal....my '95 T100 leaks a drop every once in a while. I mechanic who used to work on my truck gave me a high price to fix it...he said it's not worth it...just put a heavier grade oil in it...
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#3 Old 09-17-2012, 02:26 PM
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It's possible that it's from the valve cover gaskets and rear cam seals. You'll need to snap some piccies of leak(s) and post it.

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#4 Old 09-17-2012, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gergg View Post
I'm looking at a T100 SR5 with 180,000 miles AT- there is a slow Oil Leak on the lower section of the motor(haven't seen the leak yet) and the seller says his mechanic states the labor would be $1,800 as the engine needs to be pulled to get to it. Wondering if this is a common issue, anyone know by the desciption what it might be and if there is a less costly way to resolve the leak? I like the truck, but this is enough to make we wait for another. I can get it for $2,000-2,500.00.
Seriously?!? $1,800 for an oil leak. I don't use this one much, but...

The T100s have a good bit of room to work in...I think this guy is trying to take advantange or just doesn't want the work. By chance is it the 3.0 motor? I know they are more difficult to work on, but holy smokes...you could buy another T100 for that kind of money!

If it's the rear main...the tranny has to come off. If it's the valve covers (likely to culprit), you can do it in your garage. If it's the oil pan or oil cooler you can also do these in your driveway, but the pan seal is more involved. If it's any of the front seals it's involved, but no engine removal necessary.

Ask for and/or take some pics and post them up.


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Last edited by SC T100; 09-17-2012 at 04:54 PM.
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#5 Old 09-17-2012, 05:42 PM
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Thanks for the help so far.....I think it is the 3.4(3400 four cam 24). So do these types of leaks get progressively worse? Assuming I add oil and keep the level proper, the leaks are not damaging in any way, correct? So it sounds like there is no reason to remove the engine to fix whatever type of leak it might be, that's good as I can do some of the work or my mechanic is very reasonable. Anything else to look for?
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#6 Old 09-17-2012, 07:01 PM
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Is it 4WD or 2WD?

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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#7 Old 09-18-2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by gergg View Post
So do these types of leaks get progressively worse?

Assuming I add oil and keep the level proper, the leaks are not damaging in any way, correct?

So it sounds like there is no reason to remove the engine to fix whatever type of leak it might be, that's good as I can do some of the work or my mechanic is very reasonable. Anything else to look for?
Yes, leaks always get worse over time.

Leaks aren't damaging per se, as long as you keep it topped off. But it's not good to have oil leaking all over the place constantly. It hides new, or worse leaks. And oil isn't great to have sitting on all your electrical components. And sometimes oil leaks get exponentially worse. Case in point, my wife's old camry had a cam seal leak. It was slow. Then she drove it away after a mechanic looked at it and the leak was blowing oil everywhere. Did the seal go really bad, or did someone poke it with a screwdriver? Who knows...it got worse and the car had to be stopped on the side of the road.

Why leave the leak? It leaves a mess on the driveway and on you anytime you go under the truck. The engine very likely doesn't need to be pulled, but leaks should always be addressed, at least eventually.


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#8 Old 09-18-2012, 11:02 AM
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I would always opt to fix a leak, just wondering how expensive it would be to help determine if the truck is a viable purchase. I would mostly use it as a 3rd vehicle, but that would still require it to be reliable......Eh, not too sure about this one, I'll think it over

Are these leaks common/expected on the 1995-1998 T100's? Or is it the cause of some other maintenance shortcoming?
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#9 Old 09-18-2012, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gergg View Post
I would always opt to fix a leak, just wondering how expensive it would be to help determine if the truck is a viable purchase. I would mostly use it as a 3rd vehicle, but that would still require it to be reliable......Eh, not too sure about this one, I'll think it over

Are these leaks common/expected on the 1995-1998 T100's? Or is it the cause of some other maintenance shortcoming?
Ah, I gotcha...good call. The vlave covers and rear cam seals are common leaks on these trucks, but those are relatively cheap/easy to fix.

I would guess that the leaks are a result of the trucks being 14-17 years old. And if they are allowed to accumulate it can look bad, but that's the case with any vehicle of this age.

I would get some pics of the engine bay and post them up...maybe we can help diagnose the leaks. I had a lot of oil on my '97's engine when I got it. It's usually a result of a PO not wanting to get it taken care of. The vast majority of the oil was from the valve covers and rear cam seals. I now only have a little seepage around the oil pan (I think). It's to be expected of a vehicle this age. You get 'em sealed up and you're good to go for another 10+ years!

Maybe you can use the work estimate to get the price even lower. Good luck!


'97 Extra Cab 3.4 4x4 5sp 102K and counting...
Aisin hubs, Marlin shifter bushings, a few fellow TN member mods, and lots of elbow grease.

Last edited by SC T100; 09-18-2012 at 12:46 PM.
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#10 Old 09-19-2012, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Ah, I gotcha...good call. The vlave covers and rear cam seals are common leaks on these trucks, but those are relatively cheap/easy to fix.

I would guess that the leaks are a result of the trucks being 14-17 years old. And if they are allowed to accumulate it can look bad, but that's the case with any vehicle of this age.

I would get some pics of the engine bay and post them up...maybe we can help diagnose the leaks. I had a lot of oil on my '97's engine when I got it. It's usually a result of a PO not wanting to get it taken care of. The vast majority of the oil was from the valve covers and rear cam seals. I now only have a little seepage around the oil pan (I think). It's to be expected of a vehicle this age. You get 'em sealed up and you're good to go for another 10+ years!

Maybe you can use the work estimate to get the price even lower. Good luck!
I looked at the truck in question, decided against it as it was pretty rough. Looking at another one tomorrow, it too has some oil leaks (Valve covers) and some clear-coat peeling....guess the paint is toast when the clear-coat starts going? Think I should avoid one like this?
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#11 Old 09-19-2012, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gergg View Post
I looked at the truck in question, decided against it as it was pretty rough. Looking at another one tomorrow, it too has some oil leaks (Valve covers) and some clear-coat peeling....guess the paint is toast when the clear-coat starts going? Think I should avoid one like this?
I'm not really sure how that works. I would imagine you could always have it re-cleared if you wanted to. Otherwise I would keep wax on it and go from there.


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