Okay - I've gotten greasy before, but it's been a while - most of my wrenching has been done on carburetor-based engines. My '97 T-100 V-6 apparently needs new plug wires and/or plugs - I've had it for a couple of months, and haven't had much time to go over it. I went out and bought the wires, thinkin' I could look the plugs over and get 'em if they looked worn or burnt at the electrodes - or even oxidized. What I got was 3 wires for my V-6, which set me back a few paces. I looked under the hood, and sure enough - only 3 wires, not accessible enough to want to work further on in 0F temps. It got drastically worse - wouldn't start at all in subzero temps, ran very ragged when it started (right away) yesterday. Today, in even warmer temps, it wouldn't start again - just not enough spark. I've got no shop manual (or even owner's manual), but work I'd done on younger Toyotas (a Corolla and a SR-5 that both served me well) had been fairly straightforward. Swapping out plugs and wires should be fairly simple - but the 3-wire thing has me spooked. With all that said, here's my question - is there anything cute or unusual I should know about changing these simple parts out? Anything I should look for (or avoid) in choosing plugs? I 'spect to love the thing when it's warm enough to do some tweaking, but getting it to run now, while it's only chilly here in Minnesnowta, would be a good thing, too. Thanks in advance! Danno, the cluefull newbie, or the clueless who used to make a living wrenching - when he wasn't hunting brontosaurs.
The direct ignition coil pack sits over 3 plugs and that's where wires lead from and to the other 3 spark plugs. The system you knew before was distributed spark with a distributor and wires that led from the distributor cap to the spark plugs.
Have you pulled yer plugs and looked at the condition of them? Did you pull any codes from yer ECU via the OBDII port? You could buy and use some of the newer diagnostic setups that you can run from yer computer to yer vehicle to actually see what part isn't doing their job. AutoTap is one... You can also drop by AutoZone and have them pull the codes fer you.
Keep in mind that the ECU (computer) controls just about everything dealing with the operation of the engine based on the various sensors littered about. If a sensor should go wrong...well...I'm sure you can see where that could lead to bad performance. I'm thinking that yer coolant temp sensor could be bad as this seems a common part to fail and cause problems. You can search fer posts in reference to that and you should be able to find the proper resistance value fer it at temp.
Make sure you get the double ground spark plugs (FACTORY SPEC). The last time I had them replaced the effing Maine hick mechanic didn't, and they lasted about 15k before causing trouble.
The direct ignition coil pack sits over 3 plugs and that's where wires lead from and to the other 3 spark plugs. The system you knew before was distributed spark with a distributor and wires that led from the distributor cap to the spark plugs.
Okay - new turf, but I should be able to figure this part out.
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Have you pulled yer plugs and looked at the condition of them? Did you pull any codes from yer ECU via the OBDII port?
Yup - I'm a dinosaur - I have no idea of where the OBDII port is, much less how it works.
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You could buy and use some of the newer diagnostic setups that you can run from yer computer to yer vehicle to actually see what part isn't doing their job. AutoTap is one... You can also drop by AutoZone and have them pull the codes fer you.
I had 'em check the codes at a Tires Plus (with oil change, generally overdue 'check everything' diagnostic, and like that) - they told me it was the wires gettin' old, and made it all better for about 24 hours (without charging me for the fix).
Running from my 'puter to my truck would be tricky - the 'puter is up on second floor, about 40' from my driveway, and there's no power run out to the garage. (If I do run power out there, running the network out there would be pretty simple, and stackin' in an old, minimal-use linux box is where I'd go - but that's not happening before spring, and probably not this year.) I've got an Auto Zone nearby for next time, if I can get this beast runnin' again.
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Keep in mind that the ECU (computer) controls just about everything dealing with the operation of the engine based on the various sensors littered about. If a sensor should go wrong...well...I'm sure you can see where that could lead to bad performance. I'm thinking that yer coolant temp sensor could be bad as this seems a common part to fail and cause problems. You can search fer posts in reference to that and you should be able to find the proper resistance value fer it at temp.
You're misjudging my skill - easy enough to do, it's just a little thing, hard to see clearly. When it was running rough, the oil pressure/coolant temp guages were doing what I expected them to - or would that be a different system than the sensor you're speaking of?
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Originally Posted by robiewp
Make sure you get the double ground spark plugs (FACTORY SPEC). The last time I had them replaced the effing Maine hick mechanic didn't, and they lasted about 15k before causing trouble.
Aha! One of the things I needed to know, and didn't - thanks!
Seriously, folks - it's been a long time since I've wrenched. I had planned on getting back into it, rebuilding the engine on the old Honda 750 in the garage, and doin' the minor-to-middlin' work on the Toy - but it's 9F here now, and the T-100 won't fit in my garage until spring, so I'd like someone with experience to tell me either that this is really a fairly easy thing, shouldn't take more than 45 minutes, or that it's much more complex than it used to be, and I should bite the bullet and have it done at a shop this time. What I don't want is to spend an hour outside, have it remain clearly over my head, and have to have a shop fix both the original problem and the mistakes I made working on it myself.
Um... there's probably a thread to search here on this, but suggestions on sources for the simple shop manuals (or good manuals, cheap) would be pretty welcome, too.
Danno,
I'm in middle NY right now in an apartment but my wife and I still own a house in Maine. I've never lived anywhere where the cold didn't suck! The thing I remember most about Minneapolis was how cold it got when the wind blows... I feel your pain.
As an aside on plugs, the 5VZFEs came with Densos on one side and NGKs on the others. There is some dispute about this, but many people have observed the Densos were in much rougher shape when replaced. I went with the NGKs for this reason. You should also gap the plugs yourself, even if they're supposedly pre-gapped. You could go with a platinum as well, but I opted out.
As far as manuals go- The non-factory manuals available for the T are so-so. They mostly cover a bunch of toyota vehicles in addition to the T, but do the job for the msot part. I personally bought an FSM off ebay (and own a haynes) for about $60. If you plan on having the truck for a while I would go this route, or wait until I digitize mine.
For your immediate use in seeing what's involved for the plug wires, download the FSM for a 5vzfe (your engine) tacoma from here: http://www.************/fsm/index.html
Everything will be the same.
For the plugs and wires, make sure you have gasketed plug wrench which grabs the plug along with a tight holding extension - they're fairly deep.
I think you can handle it, though. I'd wait for the wind to stop and the sun to shine.
Cheers,
Rob
P.S.
I wanted to add that after I read your description again, this behavior is identical to what I had earlier this year. The bad spark plugs ultimately made the truck extremely easy to flood, and that easy flooding made the problem even harder to nail down. I might even start with some new proper type and properly gapped plugs and see if that solves your problem.
1997 TOYOTA T100 SR5 3.4 V6 5VZ-FE FI
Spark Plug Part No. Stock No. Plug Gap Photo
Standard BKR5EKB-11 # 3967 .044
V-Power BKR5E-11 6953 .044
G-Power BKR5EGP 7090 .044
Laser Platinum BKR5EKPB-11 * 4302 .044
Iridium IX BKR5EIX-11 5464 .044
* “Laser Series” Platinum center electrode, and Platinum pad ground electrode
# Original Equipment Manufacturer, and/or Original Equipment Service Part
^ “Laser Series” Iridium center electrode, and Platinum pad ground electrode
Looks like the standard and the laser platinum have the dual ground electrodes. The others are single ground electrodes.
Part Number: BKR5EKB-11
Part Number: BKR5EKPB-11 *
Danno,
I'm in middle NY right now in an apartment but my wife and I still own a house in Maine. I've never lived anywhere where the cold didn't suck! The thing I remember most about Minneapolis was how cold it got when the wind blows... I feel your pain.
To tell the truth, we never hit the sunny side of 0F last week, so today's highs in the teens don't feel so bad - you get acclimated. Starting plugs with gloves on doesn't sound like fun, though, so the finners may get a tad chilly...
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As an aside on plugs, the 5VZFEs
5 Volt, Zoom-Fast Engine? Or is that a model number? I thought I was doin' good parsing V6DOHC.
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came with Densos on one side and NGKs on the others. There is some dispute about this, but many people have observed the Densos were in much rougher shape when replaced. I went with the NGKs for this reason. You should also gap the plugs yourself, even if they're supposedly pre-gapped. You could go with a platinum as well, but I opted out.
According to their site, Automax has NGK platinums for the T-100 here for only $3 each - but the pic doesn't look like it's got the double ground you suggested. We'll see at the shop - they probably need some humor about now, anyway.
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As far as manuals go- The non-factory manuals available for the T are so-so. They mostly cover a bunch of toyota vehicles in addition to the T, but do the job for the msot part. I personally bought an FSM off ebay (and own a haynes) for about $60. If you plan on having the truck for a while I would go this route, or wait until I digitize mine.
<twiddling thumbs> - I don't wanna rush you or anything, but if it's in the plan anyway, I'd appreciate a headzup when you've got it done. FWIW, I tend to keep 'em until the roadsalt kills 'em dead - so I expect to keep this one until it's old enough to vote. (When they're old enough to go out and get a job, I get impressed.)
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For your immediate use in seeing what's involved for the plug wires, download the FSM for a 5vzfe (your engine) tacoma from here: http://www.************/fsm/index.html
Everything will be the same.
May the diety of your choice smile upon you and the beverage of your choice be ever to your hand. Many, many thanks.
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For the plugs and wires, make sure you have gasketed plug wrench which grabs the plug along with a tight holding extension - they're fairly deep.
I think you can handle it, though. I'd wait for the wind to stop and the sun to shine.
It's my only ride (unless you count a '74 motorcycle that hasn't been started in a decade, and mostly, I don't), so it's gotta be today or tomorrow. It's not even going below 0 tonight, so it shouldn't be too awful - not with the advice I'm gettin' here.
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Cheers,
Rob
P.S.
I wanted to add that after I read your description again, this behavior is identical to what I had earlier this year. The bad spark plugs ultimately made the truck extremely easy to flood, and that easy flooding made the problem even harder to nail down. I might even start with some new proper type and properly gapped plugs and see if that solves your problem.
I've already got the wires (what Tires Plus said), so they should be easy, once I'm in there doin' plugs. I'll let y'all know how it turns out - but for now, many, many thanks, Rob and BamZipPow!
Danno
Minnesnowta - where many are cold, but few are frozen.
Looks like AutoZone should have the BKR5EKB-11 fer about $4.29 each...
Good luck and keep warm. If you have to do one plug at a time and go back in to warm up do so! Not to make you jealous...but it's 54°F here in Houston.
Coolant temp sensor isn't fer the gauge...it's fer the ECU.
Look this thread over to see some piccies and what we came up with.
Okay - I've looked it over, and with the temp sensor being $230, I'm gonna hope it's okay, and see if plugs/wires fixes it. I've got a very basic voltmeter and continuity tester, am not equipped (in knowhow, either) to check resistance. I knew I shoulda taken electronics shop....
Looks like the standard and the laser platinum have the dual ground electrodes. The others are single ground electrodes.
Part Number: BKR5EKB-11
<pictures deleted>
Part Number: BKR5EKPB-11 *
Now I'm confused again - and of course, the NGK part numbers don't match at all with the Automax part numbers - I'll have to go into the shop and look at the box with these numbers. Everywhere I've seen NGK mentioned here, it's been a happy report, so I'm inclined in that direction. I don't mind paying $20 or $30 for a set, but I'm not trying for uber-performance, more solid and reliable - which are you recommending? Or are you saying that some single-ground plugs will do the job just fine, as long as I stick with the NGK plugs that NGK recommends for my buggy?
Danno, whose brain isn't seeming to fire today, either.
The standard dual electrode BKR5EKB-11 gapped at .044 was stock on the T-100 3.4L engine. This is the one I'm recommending to you since you need to git yer truck up and running. I figured with the links to AutoZone and Advance Auto that you should be able to source some locally and git yer truck up and running today.
Looks like AutoZone should have the BKR5EKB-11 fer about $4.29 each...
Wow! You answered before I even posted the question - that's downright impressive. If you ever get up this way, the first round's on me.
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Good luck and keep warm. If you have to do one plug at a time and go back in to warm up do so! Not to make you jealous...but it's 54°F here in Houston.
Oh, I'm not shy at all about doing a plug or two, inside for cocoa, do another plug, and like that - up here, we check winter weather before anything else.
A few decades ago, I did basic training at San Antonio, and was amazed at how the Texas wind could bring "comfortably cool" temps into downright miserable. It gets breezy like that up here, too - but I've got no Sergeants to keep me outdoors, so I'll be able to console myself on the lakes this spring.
'Nuff chatter - I should probably get hikin' the half-mile to the shop, well-armed with advice.
Fergot to mention...when you git yer truck up and running...take it over to AutoZone and they can show you where the OBDII port is and pull any codes fer yah. I believe it's accessed and located by the driver's right knee near the radio/brake handle.
I got a Scangauge to plug into my wife's 2001 Camry OBDII port so I can pull/clear codes myself and she can see how well/bad she is doing gas MPG-wise...
Wow! You answered before I even posted the question - that's downright impressive. If you ever get up this way, the first round's on me.
Oh, I'm not shy at all about doing a plug or two, inside for cocoa, do another plug, and like that - up here, we check winter weather before anything else.
A few decades ago, I did basic training at San Antonio, and was amazed at how the Texas wind could bring "comfortably cool" temps into downright miserable. It gets breezy like that up here, too - but I've got no Sergeants to keep me outdoors, so I'll be able to console myself on the lakes this spring.
'Nuff chatter - I should probably get hikin' the half-mile to the shop, well-armed with advice.
You folks are great!
Danno
Bundlin' up....
It might be easier to call them and have them reserve those fer you so yer not wasting yer time/heat trudging up there.
First thing I did when I got my not-yet-week-old T was change the plugs and wires. At first, I thought the Toyota dealer shortchanged me 3 wires. :-) Strange seeing that post about 3 NGKs and 3 Densos, hadn't heard that before The dealer set me up with Denso K16TR11's -- same as the 6 I pulled. btw, other than a couple 6inch extensions, a telescopic magnet thing came in mighty handy. Was 5F when I changed em. Also found a vaccum tube hanging and re-attached. Runs great.
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Discussion forum for the short-lived but extremely popular Toyota T-100 model.
spark plug wires?
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