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Old 03-16-2010, 05:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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T100 1/2 Ton front brake job ?

I've got a '96 T100 1/2 Ton with warped rotors. I got new ones from the autoparts store to replace them. These rotors attach by bolts to the back of the bearing housing/hub flange which holds the wheel studs .

What are the torque specs for these bolts? My Haynes manual skips this models brake type.

Anyone done this models front brakes?

Thx

Mike O

Last edited by Mike O; 03-19-2010 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Model misclassification
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I haven't done my brakes yet on my 1994 1 ton. I've only got 117,XXX miles though. Maybe in a couple more years I'll take a look at them....
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Old 03-17-2010, 10:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
T100 Road Warrior...
 
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When I git back to Houston...I can check my 1993 FSM and post up the torque numbers fer those bolts.
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Old 03-18-2010, 03:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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T100 1Ton front brake job

Okie Dokie. This is the second attempt to post. I'm a bit peeved a this site. Just for future reference, if your going to post a message instrumental make sure that when you sign in you check the "Remember Me" button, otherwise the site will dump your message!

I got into the brake job yesterday. Its time consuming but not that bad.

I'm going to skip all the detail about how to get the bearing hub and rotor assembly out as a unit. It mainly entails clearing all the caliper parts and dismounting the hub from its spindle which is pretty straight forward.

The trick to this job is, that on this 1/2 Ton model, the hub-rotor assembly is a mated surface and that the rotor mounts to the back side of the hub which is only accessable once the hub is off its spindle.

The hub is tube like with a flange at the outside which holds the wheel studs. In between the studs are tapped mounting holes for 6 14mm bolts. The rotor has an offset whose extended face mates to the flange.

You will need an impact wrench to unbolt the assembly or some way to hold the assembly tight enough to hand tool the bolts out which are in tight. I used a 3/8 impact with full air which worked perfectly. Ideas on hand tooling it. Use the tire rim, insert studs of hub into rim holes, presto instant vice!

Once you've got the bolts out it is a matter of prying the two mated surfaces apart. You can do this with a single pry bar, but two and a friend goes better. Use penetrating oil to aid in the prying process. Start prying under the wheel studs first then once a gap is big enough move to the mounting hole face to get the leverage to finish it.

When they are seperated, clean the hub sleeve where the rotor slides over with a fine 280 or so sand paper. I used a mini grinder with a scotch pad to bust the rust.

On reassembly of the rotor to the hub align the mounting holes as accuately as you can. The assembly is tight. Once the surfaces are mated you can use a lug nut on a stud and tap the mounting holes into final alignment. If you don't get the holes aligned just right you will cross thread your bolts and then you got some trouble. Take the time and patience here.

I don't know what the torque specs are for the mounting bolts , but it took a few seconds for my old impact to knock 'em loose, so on reassembly I just let it whack 'em for a few seconds to get them tight again. The bolts have lock washers so I'm confident there going to stay put. After that it is just a matter of reversing the disassembly process.

A note. This is a DIRTY job. You will be exposing your expensive bearings to a lot of grit and dust. Be prepared to at least clean and repack your wheel bearings if you don't take great care in keeping this out of the bearings. I had 250,000 miles on the truck so I replaced the bearings and races even though they looked good. If you do replace them don't go for cheap bearings. Use Timkin bearings and especially seals!

Hope this helps.

Mike O

Last edited by Mike O; 04-20-2010 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Humbled apologies...

My apologies. I have discovered today that I have been misclassifying my truck model. It was sold to me and the title bears that this truck is a 1Ton. It is not. It is a T100 1/2 ton, confirmed at the Toyo dealer by vin #.

Major disappointment! So the procedure above is for a T100 1/2 ton model. Prehaps the mod's of the site can reclassify the thread title properly.

Looking at the Haynes repair guide for front brakes described for 2wd trucks shows the style of rotor/hub combination similar to, but not exactly, to my configuration.

The differences are that the rotor mounting bolts are not visable on the front. They are from the rear and the hub is threaded to take them. In either case the hub must be pulled off the spindle to exchange the rotors. The other difference is that the brake pads do not have tabs on the outer edges and the pad retainer parts on the caliper are of a slightly different style.

Mike O

Last edited by Mike O; 04-20-2010 at 12:14 AM.
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