I wanted to, but I'm out of material. The headliner looks like a pain to take out, those little clips look like they will break into pieces. Will wait until I start messing around with map lights and sunvisors.
After a quick 20 minutes drive around town the truck seems much quiter. It also seems to warm up much faster. It was 30F and I had my heat on LO and I was boiling hot. Music is also much clearer.
__________________ 96 T100 4x4 - 5spd
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Great job Ond, yeah you said little job, I don't quite believe ya
I am still looking to do the same thing to the floor of my truck as well. I did the back and the front doors and that sure did make a difference. I bet doing the floor would really help with the heat plus the road noise.
Looks like you did a great job!!! You truck sure is coming together. Every thing you have done will make it much nicer to drive. Keep up the great work
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1996 T-100 3.4L 2 Wheel Drive
20% Tint all around, New Seats
Pioneer CD Player, Sony 6.5" Components Front, 6x9 Clarion Components Rear
Added sound insulation rear; Gibson SS Exhaust
The Following User Says Thank You to 96Wolf For This Useful Post:
I did this to my 89 pickup:
I purchased a sheet of 1/8 closed cell neoprene from a place in Kansas City called Hanna Rubber. They applied adhesive to one side with a removable paper, so basically peel and stick neoprene. I tried some 1/4 and some 1/8 and noticed no difference.
I coated most of the door surface, and rear wall sheet metal, plus some parts of the firewall and floor. The difference was astonishing. 70 MPH before you could not have a conversation, after, like driving in a Mercedes, you could communicate with a whisper. Worth the effort any day. My SR5 T100 is already quiet enough so I didnt feel like it needed it.
I will say that what I did thave to do to make the T quieter was to replace the steering wheel grommet in the firewall. Fixing that made a big difference. There was also one for the AC drain on the passenger side. I also put a factory intake back in becasue someone had put a FIPK K&N filter and it sounded terrible, like a broken turbine.
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97 T100 140,000 miles. Very clean rustless southern vehicle. The Bilstiens are nice, Pro-Rack cab protector, back to factory air intake-much quieter - selling the K&N FIPK, PM to make offer.
I did my best to wrap the steering wheel grommet with the insulation. Didn't see the AC drain on the passenger side.
Previously there was so much noise before that you had to crank the radio and scream to have a conversation at 70mph. Not any more. Also really impressed with the insulation characteristics. Much less air infiltration around handles and such. Cab seems to stay much warmer.
Also when you shut the door now it has a nice and solid "thunk" instead of rattle.
Highly recommend this stuff to any body looking to quit their truck down. It was fairly inexpensive, easy to work with and seems to work well.
__________________ 96 T100 4x4 - 5spd
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Hey just wanna to show you a T100 that look like yours... But lift it. It's your Twin that is trying to sell it on Craigslist. Note I not sure if it was alright for this on your pg.
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Cool. Guess I'm not the 1st to do a black two tone on a T100.
Yeah it's all good you posted this here. I would say it's on topic.
Not sure if I want to lift my truck. I might do a small lift using longer rear spring shackles and maybe an AAL to the rear spring pack. But having a lifted truck just makes loading my dirt bike even harder.
Also thinking about some Land Cruiser wheels, but they have more offset than OEM T100 wheels so I might be adding some fender flares so they don't stick out so far. I was actually wondering yesterday what the black/white two tone would look like with some fender flares.
Thanks for deleting your post about Asin hubs by the way, just didn't make much sense to post it here. No hard feelings.
Cool. Guess I'm not the 1st to do a black two tone on a T100.
Yeah it's all good you posted this here. I would say it's on topic.
Not sure if I want to lift my truck. I might do a small lift using longer rear spring shackles and maybe an AAL to the rear spring pack. But having a lifted truck just makes loading my dirt bike even harder.
Also thinking about some Land Cruiser wheels, but they have more offset than OEM T100 wheels so I might be adding some fender flares so they don't stick out so far. I was actually wondering yesterday what the black/white two tone would look like with some fender flares.
Thanks for deleting your post about Asin hubs by the way, just didn't make much sense to post it here. No hard feelings.
Installed a Wheelskins steering wheel cover. Purchased the Euro-perforated one but only went with one color instead of two. It was around $50-60 shipped. Took almost 2 hours to take off the old steering wheel wrap and install the Wheelskins cover. Little tedious but not too bad. My index finger wore through from pulling the thread tight. Ouch
Turned out pretty well. The seam is really tight/close in some spots and more open in others. I think the thickness of the steering wheel changes slightly.
Nice and tight at the top of the steering wheel.
Little more open around the spokes.
Also found an air tank on craigslist. Drove to Leadville to pick it up, the lady only wanted $10. It's a 7 gal unit, USA made. I plan on using in as is for a while then possibly using it as a tank for my on-board air if I get to that point.
The lady also had a car in front of her house that caught my eye. She says it runs and they drove it all summer. Carbs need cleaning and adjustment but she says it zips around at 85mph no problem. Not much rust to speak off. She wants $1000.
Anybody know what kinda car this is? Should be able to get the make from this picture. Really like the styling of these things.
I can't stop thinking about it, somebody talk me out of it.
Went to Denver yesterday to gather some things and parts for the T100. Busy day running around, but got a lot of things accomplished.
Found a brand new set of chains on craigslist. Paid $30, brand new they are $100. Bag hasn't even been opened.
Had my drive shaft rebuilt at Bill's Englewood Driveshafts. Great little shop, Bill does excellent work. Very fast turn around too, My axle was done 4-5hrs after dropping it off. A+++ highly recommended.
Bill came to around $350. All new joints and balanced. My carrier bearing was still good.
He recommends filling the carrier mount with silicone to stiffen the rubber, will do that today.
Went to Yota Yard a toyota junkyard in Denver. Really nice guys. Picked up a rear view mirror with a map light from a 4runner ($15). Also a map light from a lexus that I will try to install somewhere, not sure where yet ($15).
Also found a set of Land Cruiser wheels ($35 each). Will get those painted black in the next couple of weeks. Then I will look for tires, need center caps too.
All in all a pretty good day.
__________________ 96 T100 4x4 - 5spd
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Did you git the wiring harness/plug (2 wires) to go with the map light? The ones in later T-100 (after 1994) only came with the single wire going to the map light. It should just plug into the integration relay/fuse box up near the top. If you didn't you'll need to tap into the ground to the center dome light to git the door activation switch to work.
Don't fergit to grease the slip joint. Not sure if yer shop did that already. It's a common missed lube point that can give you a feeling that someone bumped into you after you've come to a stop.
Got wiring harness and plug with both map lights. So should be good to go.
Will look at that. They greased all the other joint so I'm hoping they greased the slip yoke too.
Yup that's his website. He does everything with driveshafts. He had this custom 1 piece chevy crew cab driveshaft that was at least an 8" aluminum tube. Looked cool.
Agree powder coat would be best, but powder coat = $$$. Debating what color to go with. Thinking black or white that matches the top of the truck. Probably just spray paint.
So this is what I was told to do at the driveshaft shop. Cover the top two holes on the carrier bearing. Install driveshaft and carrier barring on truck. Use a bumgee cord or a tie down to take the weight off the center carrier bearing. Then fill the rubber mount the bearing sits in with silicone. I used almost a full tube.
It seemed to help. I drove it with the new driveshaft without the silicone. No vibrations but still a decent amount of movement felt in the shift lever. Now with the silicone filled center bearing still no vibrations but much less movement in the driveshaft. The shift lever doesn't seem to move as much when you go from accelerating to coasting suddenly. I would say it helped with 1st jumping out of gear. Basically it's supposed to strengthen the rubber mount on the carrier bearing.
Also went XC skiing yesterday. Found a road that was still open and drove as far up as I could. Ended up putting on all 4 chains and made it past where everyone else turned around. It was nice having chains on all 4 corners, made the truck much more predictable.
The set of chains I picked up on craigslist were brand freaking new. Sealed bag and fresh paint. No rubbing either with 31x10.5-15 tires.
__________________ 96 T100 4x4 - 5spd
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awesome thread and pics -- i just read it all the way through.
by the way, i drove through and stayed in denver Sunday night (8 days ago) on my way back from the east coast picking up my truck. hit snow on the west side of denver on I-70, got a teeny bit sideways for a second on the interstate. that sure got me to slow down! im used to driving on snow though.
anyway, i wish i would have had time to go exploring around some of these roads from your pictures! but we were on a mission to get back in time for work Tuesday so we drove without any detours.
maybe some time i can go back to explore around colorado.
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