My T so far . . . Manual Hubs, Brakes, and Steering Questions inside (LONG)
Got my 96 T100 4x4 in Salt Lake City about 3 weeks ago. Went to Moab Utah dirt biking without doing a thing to it other than bedliner. Did a little shakedown on some dirt road, sand, and as you saw some slickrock.
FOR FUN, roomates Comando
Things that needed work . . .
Brakes, CV axle, mounts and some ball joints. Plus some fun things along the way.
Things done so far . . .
#1 Bedliner
Had some fun breathing to many fumes in an enclosed garage.
3 Sand bags reside in the bed. Tires are down to 28psi front and 25 psi rear. Lots of washboard ice and snow here.
#2 Interior
Window tint (legal for CO), center cup holder, FM transmitter and some floor mats. Got some Goodyear brand at Autozone. $30 and they fit well and the rubber seems quality. Not sure about the top windshield strip, but so far I like it. Makes the front windshield seem smaller and does good with sun protection.
#2 CV Axle
Both boots torn and CV joints running dry. Got a refurbished one at Autozone and painted it white. Not sure if that’s the color I will go with but I like to paint the parts I replace on my vehicles a certain color to protect them and tell them apart from original parts. The white stands out well and matches the truck.
Forgot to put the dust seal on the outside joint. DUH! Didn’t find out till I had everything buttoned up. Will probably take the whole thing apart and do a write up with pics.
#3 Fog Lights
Hella 2020 Optilux. Little on the cheap side, but for $60 hard to pass up. Going to experiment with some different bulbs. Ordered some Hella Yellow 12V55W H3 bulbs for the fog light beam.
Things on the list
Merlin Crawler (all 3 parts on order)
Front sway bar greaseable bushing and end links (ordered)
Bushings and seal for idler arm (ordered from dealer)
Bug Deflector (ordered)
Monroe steering damper (seeing if Napa has one locally by the time bushings show up)
Manual hubs (sourced from local junkyard $80, waiting for them to pull)
Need to find some better seats.
Exhaust (doing research)
Cold Ait Intake (research)
Air compressor (research)
DC to AC converter (research)
I also have a couple of question . . .
A: What is the advantage of Manual hubs. The ones I’m getting are from an 89 with IFS. Research says they will fit. My 96 came with ADD hubs, which means the front CV axles spin all the time. But correct me if I’m wrong isn’t the front driveshaft from transfer case spins all the time?
B: Guess there was a recall on the steering components. Here is a pic, does my truck have the recall done? Guessing leaking steering damper is NO good.
Feel free to steer me in the right direction. I have automotive experience but this is my first truck. My other ride is a 2000 Audi A4 wagon with all wheel drive. V6 with 5spd. Audi A8 big brakes, SS brake lines, Cat back exhaust, hella 500 HID conversion, HD sway bars, all sorts of stiffer mounts and poly bushings. Made my own trailer hitch and trailer to tow my KTM.
Just so you know I’m 25, but would like to keep the T tasteful and practical. Going for a KTM support rig, base camp, and a decent trail rig. Not going for loud exhaust, even louder stereo and neon lights.
This guy gives me inspiration. Nice T ready for the zombie apocalypse. Is he on this forum??
Thanks Guys, this seems to be a great forum for info and I hope to contribute.
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Cool truck man! Thanks for all the pics and the time to write it up. Looks like a long list ahead. take your time and enjoy it. I bought the Gibson SS exhaust. Its not much louder then stock. I got it because of the lifetime warranty.
The biggest upgrade I did was the stereo, and sound deadening. Made the truck ride so much quieter, even with the Gibson Exhaust.
here are a few of my threads on the matter. 1st one has a lot of random stuff in it.
I like your dynamat soundproofing and sound system work. On the list, but far down in priority, so far the toyota soundsystem does ok. I did spray some rubber underbody paint on bottom of cab and bed and it did quit the interior down a bit.
Does an oil based filter such as K&N cause problems with gumming up the MAF sensor??
I like the T bench seat for practicality, but comfort is terrible. Especially when used to driving the Audi. What did the upholstery work run, since a neoprene seat cover is around $150 and I think I can find a pair of used leather seats out of a german sedan or suv for around $100-$200.
Got my 96 T100 4x4 in Salt Lake City about 3 weeks ago.
Things done so far . . .
#1 Bedliner
Had some fun breathing to many fumes in an enclosed garage.
#2 CV Axle
The white stands out well and matches the truck.
#3 Fog Lights
Hella 2020 Optilux.
Things on the list
Merlin Crawler (all 3 parts on order)
Front sway bar greaseable bushing and end links (ordered)
Bushings and seal for idler arm (ordered from dealer)
Bug Deflector (ordered)
Monroe steering damper (seeing if Napa has one locally by the time bushings show up)
Manual hubs (sourced from local junkyard $80, waiting for them to pull)
Exhaust (doing research)
Cold Ait Intake (research)
DC to AC converter (research)
I also have a couple of question . . .
A: What is the advantage of Manual hubs. The ones I’m getting are from an 89 with IFS. Research says they will fit. My 96 came with ADD hubs, which means the front CV axles spin all the time. But correct me if I’m wrong isn’t the front driveshaft from transfer case spins all the time?
B: Guess there was a recall on the steering components. Here is a pic, does my truck have the recall done? Guessing leaking steering damper is NO good.
My other ride is a 2000 Audi A4 wagon with all wheel drive. V6 with 5spd. Nice T ready for the zombie apocalypse. Is he on this forum??
Again welcome! We love seeing these truck brough back to full potential...and we also pics! Thanks! You have the exact same interor as I do (is your steering column a little more tan than blue like the rest of them?)
Bedliner...looks great!...professional, even from the pic.
Get some KYB Gas-A-Just shocks..they are white too and will match your CVs! And awesome. That's always good too.
I am really liking the fog lights...I picked up a cheapo set from Advance, but I haven't installed them because I would have to cut my valence. Did you have to drill or cut to mount those? I may be picking up a set after seeing how nice they are on yours.
Your list is great. And the things listed will do wonders for the truck. BTW, you can get a Monroe damper and boot on Amazon for pretty cheap...28 bucks or so.
Glad you found some hubs! The advantage is that they prevent the CVs from spinning all the time, reducing wear and tear on the joint, and the boot as well. Some people claim an increase in mileage, but I haven't been able to confirm that.
Zuke just put up a thread for a bolt on direct replacement exhaust that is similar to the stock unit...it looks like a great deal.
CAI - yes you can coat the MAF with oil, but some guys do just fine (my guess is that they don't over-oil it as do most). But just remember, they don't filter the really fine stuff as well as the paper filter and box, so you may want to change the oil after going offroad once you add the CAI. Some guys will disagree though and say they are just as good. I don't have one and have only done some research on CAIs, so take my advice with a grain of salt (or dust).
Power inverter...I get by just fine with a small 100W/200W (cig lighter/battery) Black and Decker unit from Target. But if you want to run anything bigger than a laptop, you will likely need a big one permanently wired to the battery.
Recall for steering...have a Toyota dealer run your VIN...they will be able to tell you if it was done or not.
Audi...nice ride! I have always like the Audi wagons. Oh, and I don't think the anti-zombie T is on here, but maybe. That one has had the front IFS swapped for a solid axle unit. A lot of the more hardcore guys do that for durability purposes.
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'97 Extra Cab 3.4 4x4 5sp 100K and counting...
Aisin hubs, Marlin shifter bushings, a few fellow TN member mods, and lots of elbow grease.
SC T100. Your post have been very informative. Thats actually where I got most of my info.
Not sure about the color. It varies through out the interior. I would say the dash is more blue than the door panels. Not sure about the steering column.
Pretty happy with bedliner. $90 Herculiner Kit. Way more grippy than plastic.
The fog lights are starting to be more and more useful. I can't wait for the yellow bulbs. Drove to Keystone for night skiing over Vail Pass (around 10,000 ft) and hit a pretty good snow storm. The lower tire pressure helped out more than i thought. Bigger tire contact patch and softer ride over bumps. Nobody passed me the entire drive back and kept her in 2wd the whole time. Fog lights worked great in the snow storm.
Also different bulbs in headlights work much better. Can't remember what I got, but they are the higher end Wal-Mart ones. around $40 for pair.
CAI - will try to have a heat shield plus some sort of water proofing/splashguard.
,
Exhaust - Not sure yet, but stock seems way restrictive and no emission tests up here.
Power inverter - actually looking for a nice big one 1,800 W with 2,600 peak. Want to be able to run a drill, lights, camping stuff. Might need an extra battery, but all is going in tool box in bed.
Off to Denver around 4am in this snow storm. Wish me luck. Only 2 mountain passes and a bunch of turns. At least I will be driving an Escalade with winter tires.
They may not have one finalized for the T yet, but they will at some point judging by their thread title. I don't think it includes the wiring or relays, but you seem to know wiring from your other posts so it shouldn't be a big deal for ya'.
Edit: Just saw they will eventually be offering a complete tray and wiring kit.
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'97 Extra Cab 3.4 4x4 5sp 100K and counting...
Aisin hubs, Marlin shifter bushings, a few fellow TN member mods, and lots of elbow grease.
Last edited by SC T100; 03-02-2011 at 12:49 PM.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to SC T100 For This Useful Post:
but what i was originally thinking was put the extra battery in the tool box in the back.
My Reasoning.
1. I would have to run wiring there anyway for air compressor and inverter.
2. Better weight distribution.
3. Could then run anything of the external battery in tool box.
How does that sound?
My only concerns:
1. Alternator running power all the way to battery in tool box.
2. Gauge of wire to run power to the tool box battery. Thicker the better, but might get expensive.
but what i was originally thinking was put the extra battery in the tool box in the back.
My Reasoning.
1. I would have to run wiring there anyway for air compressor and inverter.
2. Better weight distribution.
3. Could then run anything of the external battery in tool box.
How does that sound?
My only concerns:
1. Alternator running power all the way to battery in tool box.
2. Gauge of wire to run power to the tool box battery. Thicker the better, but might get expensive.
Yup...You can absolutely run a battery in the bed/toolbox. It's not a bad setup at all for running some smaller, and some larger (ARB fridges) items. But I see those setups most often as stand-alone systems. The longer wiring to have it connected to the alternator may be an issue (and expensive like you said), but as long as it's set up right you should be fine. Keeping the inverter as close to the battery as possible is essential as well. Just make sure your connections are very weatherproof...wouldn't want that alternator shorting out from rain getting in the tool box!
I think the Columbia Overland setup designed for a few reasons: to retain maximum bedspace (a lot of those guys have Flipacs and such), and to pull power from two batteries at once. The shorter wiring is certianly a benefit too.
It all depends on how you want it set up. Sounds like you have a good plan to me.
__________________
'97 Extra Cab 3.4 4x4 5sp 100K and counting...
Aisin hubs, Marlin shifter bushings, a few fellow TN member mods, and lots of elbow grease.
but what i was originally thinking was put the extra battery in the tool box in the back.
My Reasoning.
1. I would have to run wiring there anyway for air compressor and inverter.
2. Better weight distribution.
3. Could then run anything of the external battery in tool box.
How does that sound?
My only concerns:
1. Alternator running power all the way to battery in tool box.
2. Gauge of wire to run power to the tool box battery. Thicker the better, but might get expensive.
If you take care of No. 2 then that should take care of No.1. Yes it will cost some money. I would look on the internet for kits that relocate batteries to the trunk of cars. That should give you an idea on what size of wire to run. I wouldn't buy a kit, just get the wire size and other info from them for you to make your own.
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1996 T-100 3.4L 2 Wheel Drive
20% Tint all around, New Seats
Pioneer CD Player, Sony 6.5" Components Front, 6x9 Clarion Components Rear
Added sound insulation rear; Gibson SS Exhaust
TOOL BOX:
water is an issue. Planning on doing a little wood organizer in the box so raising it off the bottom would be a good idea or some drains.
Will most likely do a series of fuses to prevent the alternator shorting. Ideally would like inverter big enough to power small electronics. Then a air compressor for ARB lockers and a air tank or two mounted on the bottom of box so I can use air tools and air up tires on trail.
I mean how cool would it be to have a power strip and air fittings on the outside of the tool box.
Ideally would like to do a quick disconnect so I could take the entire tool box out.
So far, will get paint first.
FOG LIGHTS:
New bulbs came in. Went with Hella H3 Yellowstart bulbs 55W ($8 Amazon) and Sylvania Silverstar bulbs ($5 at walmart). You can tell the difference in color just by the reflection. One is yellow other is blue.
My sway bars are 28mm, got 32mm. Didn't even take them out of the package. The link in your post just sent me to an amazon link but wrong size.
Oh well. Just wondering if SR5 came with bigger sways? I think I have DX.
Brought this over here to keep it out of Rez's thread...
I didn't get mine from Amazon. You probably followed an advertising link...if a picture popped up when you moused over the link it's an advert, not my link. If you read the thread I quote this:
"I used part numbers 9.5162R and 9.8125R for my 4x4."
These are the part numbers you need to get from Energy suspension. I do not believe SR5s have any different suspension components.
__________________
'97 Extra Cab 3.4 4x4 5sp 100K and counting...
Aisin hubs, Marlin shifter bushings, a few fellow TN member mods, and lots of elbow grease.
The Following User Says Thank You to SC T100 For This Useful Post:
Finally found some mesh I liked. It's not as thin as I wanted but I like the pattern. Home Depot ($10 for a 12x24 sheet).
Made a template, cut out and sanded with angle grinder. Painting them black. Still trying to figure out mounting. Simple zip-tie will work but would like them to be easily removable.
ANY IDEAS for MOUNTING??
Some pics before painting . . .
Snowing, so going skiing. Keystone (about 45 min away) has night skiing. Taking the Audi.
The Following User Says Thank You to OndrejT100 For This Useful Post:
X2...or drill and use a nut/bolt so it's removable for touch ups as they are bound to get chewed up.
__________________
'97 Extra Cab 3.4 4x4 5sp 100K and counting...
Aisin hubs, Marlin shifter bushings, a few fellow TN member mods, and lots of elbow grease.
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