Well due to a high demand and my unfortunate requirement for a new wheel bearing I am posting a Do It Yourself for a front wheel bearing change. This was roughly a 2 hour work period for myself as well as an hours worth of time at the Napa Machine Shop to press off the old bearing and on a new one with a new seal.
1. Of course, remove the front wheel
2. Remove the anti lock brake sensor. This is done with a 10mm socket or wrench. This is located on the front side of the hub or at your right hand side when you are working on it. You will need to follow the rubber line up the suspension and unclamp it. There is one plastic clamp right above the CV shaft as well as 2 metal clamps on the upper suspension arm. Use needle nose pliers for this.
3. Remove the brake line mount. This is done with a 12mm socket or wrench. It is located on the back side of the spindle.
4. Remove the caliper. This is done utilizing a 17mm deep well socket (alternate of short socket with extension) or wrench. One helpful item is to spread the brake pads before removing. This makes removal and installation easier. You can spread the brake pads using a flat head screwdriver. I used a medium sized cooler to set the caliper on instead of removing the brake line and having to bleed the brakes. You can see how I did this in a later picture.
5. Once the caliper is removed you can begin removing the plate on the front of the hub. This is accomplished with a flat head screwdriver and hammer alternating sides until it is removed. It will help if you have never removed this to use a chizle (spelling?) or sharpen the head of a screwdriver to get this done. It is on there pretty good so you will have to work at it. Have a couple of flat heads ready as well as one of a larger size. This will help to pry it off once you get it started.
6. Once the plate is removed you will see the CV shaft nut as well as a locking washer. First remove the codder pin. This is done with needle nose pliers and a hammer. Then you will just slide the locking washer off. It is the green item in the picture. This will expose the CV shaft nut.
7. Remove the CV shaft nut. This nut uses a 36mm socket and an impact wrench. I really dont see any way you can get this to budge by hand without an impact wrench but others may be smarter than me.
8. Once the CV nut is removed you can then begin to remove the bolts that hold the hub in place. There are 4 of them and they are all 17mm. Make sure you use the closed end side of the wrench because if you dont you will round off the bolt head. They are pretty tight so it will probably take a hammer to get them to budge. There are indentions on the back of the hub that will allow you to have a little more space to move the wrench. You can see from the picture how it has an indention there. Make sure you loosen the bolts at a similar pace. If you try to back one at a time all the way out you will have issues. Use a rubber mallet to encourage the cv shaft out of the hub.
After that it is just going in reverse order to place everything back together. One thing to watch out for when you get your bearing pressed is to make sure that they put the seal on before pressing the hub and bearing back together. This will cause a premature failure if the seal is not there. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to PM me. I hope this helps anyone that has to do this. A rough estimate for parts and labor (pressing the hub and bearing) can range from $130 to $250 depening on who you buy the parts from. Again that is an estimate for doing the work yourself plus parts and having the hub and bearing pressed.