A week ago I bought a preowned 2005 Tacoma DC. It was a demo driven by the parts manager of the dealership...I really couldn't find anything wront with the truck...it was kept in perfect cond. So I bought it. Well today, I gave it it's first wash and detail of my own and I came across 4 knicks in the paint on the roof above the windshield that have begun to rust. I never saw this at the dealer....didnt think to climb up and look on the roof. Anyways, no warranty coverage b/c is was caused by road debris. Any ideas on repairing these. If you need to see the pics to give advice...email me and I will send one out. Thanks again!
Depends on severity, but I've had some good luck using one of the rust-converter materials.
(If there's no rust and still some of the primer/tiecoat, just use touch up paint.)
Assuming rust, clean the pocks well. By that I mean clean with denatured alcohol. (You can use mineral spirits, but you'll have to let it dry, and that leaves more time for contaminants.) using a toothpick or a small artist's brush (depending on chip size), apply the rust converter per instructions. Best is to not over-apply, just a minimum amount, and do it twice (waiting per label) to cover any missed edges, etc. Let dry per label. Top with touchup paint per the touch up paint instructions. (This may also be applied w/ a toothpick if the chips are very small.)
Give at least a couple of weeks to dry before waxing.
Depends on severity, but I've had some good luck using one of the rust-converter materials.
(If there's no rust and still some of the primer/tiecoat, just use touch up paint.)
Assuming rust, clean the pocks well. By that I mean clean with denatured alcohol. (You can use mineral spirits, but you'll have to let it dry, and that leaves more time for contaminants.) using a toothpick or a small artist's brush (depending on chip size), apply the rust converter per instructions. Best is to not over-apply, just a minimum amount, and do it twice (waiting per label) to cover any missed edges, etc. Let dry per label. Top with touchup paint per the touch up paint instructions. (This may also be applied w/ a toothpick if the chips are very small.)
Give at least a couple of weeks to dry before waxing.
“All things are subject to interpretation whichever interpretation prevails at a given time is a function of power and not truth.” 2006 Tacoma DC Sport 4x4
yeah yeah yeah, i screwed up the link. I followed the directions and I DID read the thread for posting pics, but when I try to paste the link to the bar, it won't allow me to do it. So screw the pics for now. ANY OTHER commentsregarding the rust would be appreciated. If you want to bust my nuts for the link, save your time. Thanks!
thanks....I am in Methuen, borders NH on the north shore. I will work on the pics.
Hey... are you clicking the yellow icon w/ the mountian in the toolbar to insert the link?
Just checking.
I am interested to see this rust!
Good Luck!
Nicky9
__________________
“All things are subject to interpretation whichever interpretation prevails at a given time is a function of power and not truth.” 2006 Tacoma DC Sport 4x4
Depends on severity, but I've had some good luck using one of the rust-converter materials.
(If there's no rust and still some of the primer/tiecoat, just use touch up paint.)
Assuming rust, clean the pocks well. By that I mean clean with denatured alcohol. (You can use mineral spirits, but you'll have to let it dry, and that leaves more time for contaminants.) using a toothpick or a small artist's brush (depending on chip size), apply the rust converter per instructions. Best is to not over-apply, just a minimum amount, and do it twice (waiting per label) to cover any missed edges, etc. Let dry per label. Top with touchup paint per the touch up paint instructions. (This may also be applied w/ a toothpick if the chips are very small.)
Give at least a couple of weeks to dry before waxing.
good luck
can you reccommend a rust converter...not very familiar with this stuff...thank you
can you reccommend a rust converter...not very familiar with this stuff...thank you
There are a number of them available from various mfrs. You can even sometimes find them in Walmart. I like the products from Loctite/Permatex. Probably can find that at some auto parts folks. (I got mine from industrial supply.)
But do read and follow the label. I don't have it in front of me, but if I remember correctly, it may require a 24 hr wait between the converter and topcoating with lacquer or other oil/solvent based coatings. The touch up paint is likely to be either lacquer or enamel.
(FYI- Enamel will bond to either, but lacquer, though a better finish, will only bond well to lacquer.)
If you have to wait the 24 hrs, just clean with denatured alcohol again before the touch up paint.
There are a number of them available from various mfrs. You can even sometimes find them in Walmart. I like the products from Loctite/Permatex. Probably can find that at some auto parts folks. (I got mine from industrial supply.)
But do read and follow the label. I don't have it in front of me, but if I remember correctly, it may require a 24 hr wait between the converter and topcoating with lacquer or other oil/solvent based coatings. The touch up paint is likely to be either lacquer or enamel.
(FYI- Enamel will bond to either, but lacquer, though a better finish, will only bond well to lacquer.)
If you have to wait the 24 hrs, just clean with denatured alcohol again before the touch up paint.
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