I'm in the market for a hitch but have run into a litte problem I can't get answered. I'm looking for a Class 3 Hitch 2wd access cab non-prerunner. Draw-tite, Hidden Hitch, Valley are the three hitches on etrailer.com. Now I'm a firm believer in "you get what you pay for" but that doesn't mean I'm going to get the over priced factory hitch. HH and DT are well know hitches and they attach only to the frame of the vehicle. Valley's hitch attaches to the frame and then two bolts through the bumper. Here lies the problem, I'm leaning towards the HH or DT hitch, but the valley is cheaper. So my mind is telling me to stay away from the valley but the factory hitch uses bolts through the bumper, so is the cheaper hitch the better hitch?
So what is the best option between, price and duribility?
Just because it mounts through the bumper doesn't make it worse. The factory hitch mounts into the bumper as well as the frame and is a CLASS IV hitch if it came with the truck. I have used Valley and Draw Tite and never had any problems. The installation is the key as well as the looks. Hidden Hitch has nicer rounded bars for some vehicles.
Like he said ^. The factory hitch is rated higher than aftermarket hitches and it's mounted to the bumper as well. My guess is that would make it stronger, but I'm not expert.
__________________
^sig by me!
Toytec 3" lift & AAL, 285/75r16 Kumho Road Venture
DTRL, Fog Light, locker, & diff breather mods, Bestop Supertop, Hi-Lift mount, hood struts, reinforced tailgate, BHLM, ABS kill switch, bed lights, rock lights
I just ordered the Valley hitch from etrailer. I think bolting to the bumper is the way to go. I'll have to get under my truck to look, but I remember reading that a frame member actually runs across with the bumper. So, the weight is going directly to the frame via the bumper mount rather than being leveraged through the hitch rails to the mounting bolts on the main frame members. I think that makes more sense, and since it was cheaper too.........
Ive got a reg cab non prerunner 2wd and installed the draw tite. The fit was great, it was cheap and ive used it many times towing quads and I have no complaints. I thought the whole reason you bought a hitch was to avoid the bumper and bolt directly into the frame, I dunno. As far as what class hitch my truck is only rated for 3500 lbs and I never go over 1500-2000 lbs so as long as the hitch is rated at least as high as the truck I didn't care. I did go with the official wiring harness however and have to (highly) recommend it. My dealer wanted $800 installed for the Toy hitch and harness but I did it myself for under $250 with the draw tite hitch. I got a cheap ass Tacoma but I cant believe how stable and smooth it tows my trailer, I love my Taco with this setup.
in my humble opinion, i work at a welding shop and we do all kinds of hitches 5 wheels and goosenecks we install mostly putnam hitches, anyways we have never ever attached it through the bumper, always to the frame.
The whole bolting through the bumper deal might be the weight distributing hitch some have said the OEM one is. If that comment about a frame rail inside the bumper is true I'd be more inclined to think those bumper bolts are the weight distributing part.
But then again I'm no towing expert so maybe someone else wants to think about that?
__________________
^sig by me!
Toytec 3" lift & AAL, 285/75r16 Kumho Road Venture
DTRL, Fog Light, locker, & diff breather mods, Bestop Supertop, Hi-Lift mount, hood struts, reinforced tailgate, BHLM, ABS kill switch, bed lights, rock lights
in my humble opinion, i work at a welding shop and we do all kinds of hitches 5 wheels and goosenecks we install mostly putnam hitches, anyways we have never ever attached it through the bumper, always to the frame.
With most bumpers these days being mostly plastic or weaker materials I would have to agree with you. But if there is a frame rail through these bumpers (I can't wander out and check at the moment), then that would be a solid place to bolt to wouldn't it?
__________________
^sig by me!
Toytec 3" lift & AAL, 285/75r16 Kumho Road Venture
DTRL, Fog Light, locker, & diff breather mods, Bestop Supertop, Hi-Lift mount, hood struts, reinforced tailgate, BHLM, ABS kill switch, bed lights, rock lights
I don't understand why a class IV on the tacos. I towed around 5000 with my truck and it did not like it. At all. I can't see having the balls to try and tow much more than that with these trucks. And with a class IV sitting back there, it's just asking for somebody to throw 10K on there and check it out.
I don't understand why a class IV on the tacos. I towed around 5000 with my truck and it did not like it. At all. I can't see having the balls to try and tow much more than that with these trucks. And with a class IV sitting back there, it's just asking for somebody to throw 10K on there and check it out.
Even with the Class IV hitch, Toyota says that
6500 pounds is the max tow rating for a V6
equiped tacoma. Not sure if they specified a
transmission or any thing else... I read this
6500 number from one of the many towing
threads...
Go with a Hidden Hitch from JC Whitney rated at 5000 lbs and save some money. I just had my bumper off to install the HH and the bumper material is so thin ...it's ridiculous. I also echo the comment above about towing more than 5000. The Tacoma(for all it's good attributes) is edgy at towing 5000. The manual says the bed capacity is 1400 lbs as well. Not even close...
Even with the Class IV hitch, Toyota says that
6500 pounds is the max tow rating for a V6
equiped tacoma. Not sure if they specified a
transmission or any thing else... I read this
6500 number from one of the many towing
threads...
jack
Yeah, I understand the overkill safety factor. But I swear man, in my line of work I see this type of stuff all the time. My company installs a new crane in a building and it clearly states all over the damn thing in huge black letters, whatever the cap is, say 20 tons. It won't be a week after install and operation testing that the customer will call for us to come and service or fix it b/c they maxed out the cap and popped the welds, cracked the wheels, bent/warped the girders, whatever. And it says 20 TON MAX all over it!
Based on that, call it human nature, you know that some guy(s) who's never read the manual, but knows a class IV is rated to pull 10k is gonna try to do it. Especially if it came from the factory that way. Thats just my train of thought on the subject.
Yeah, I understand the overkill safety factor. But I swear man, in my line of work I see this type of stuff all the time. My company installs a new crane in a building and it clearly states all over the damn thing in huge black letters, whatever the cap is, say 20 tons. It won't be a week after install and operation testing that the customer will call for us to come and service or fix it b/c they maxed out the cap and popped the welds, cracked the wheels, bent/warped the girders, whatever. And it says 20 TON MAX all over it!
Based on that, call it human nature, you know that some guy(s) who's never read the manual, but knows a class IV is rated to pull 10k is gonna try to do it. Especially if it came from the factory that way. Thats just my train of thought on the subject.
Didn't you know? That's the "meteor proof" part!
The truck will be totaled after impact, but that hitch will be dug out and slapped on another truck!
__________________
^sig by me!
Toytec 3" lift & AAL, 285/75r16 Kumho Road Venture
DTRL, Fog Light, locker, & diff breather mods, Bestop Supertop, Hi-Lift mount, hood struts, reinforced tailgate, BHLM, ABS kill switch, bed lights, rock lights
I have the HH on a DC. Mechanically the hitch works fine and it installed in about 15 minutes (using impact wrenches). The only thing I don’t like about it is that it hangs about an inch or two below the bumper instead of flush like the factory hitch. I also used their wiring harness and that works flawlessly and installs just as easy. Except for the cosmetic nitpick, it’s a great hitch.
Yeah, I understand the overkill safety factor. But I swear man, in my line of work I see this type of stuff all the time. My company installs a new crane in a building and it clearly states all over the damn thing in huge black letters, whatever the cap is, say 20 tons. It won't be a week after install and operation testing that the customer will call for us to come and service or fix it b/c they maxed out the cap and popped the welds, cracked the wheels, bent/warped the girders, whatever. And it says 20 TON MAX all over it!
Based on that, call it human nature, you know that some guy(s) who's never read the manual, but knows a class IV is rated to pull 10k is gonna try to do it. Especially if it came from the factory that way. Thats just my train of thought on the subject.
Obviously someone doesn't know hitch ratings very well. It's not "overkill" it's a requirement to reach the maximum towing capacity. A class III hitch is only rated for 6000# and 600# tongue weight. So if you go buy an aftermarket hitch you won't be able to reach the max tow capacity of 6500# because you'll be limited by the hitch rating. Once you reach over 6000# you're into Class IV hitches. Most class III aftermarket hitches that I've found as well have a limit of 5000# with a tongue weight of 500# which is even further under the ratings for the Tacoma.
Check out http://www.reeseprod.com/ for more information. There is not currently a manufacture that makes an aftermarket Class IV hitch for the Tacoma
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
