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Old 12-14-2006, 07:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Trailer Hitch Wiring Harness Installation

I stopped by the dealer to hand him over another check and they gave me a wiring harness for my trailer in order to sweeten the deal. THIS THING IS HUGE.
Anyone install this harness on their truck? It doesn't come with any instructions whatsoever and trust me, this is no 3 ft harness! If anyone can at least give me tips as to where the harness jacks into the main harness, it would be helpful. The damn thing is so big that I wonder if it jacks in somewhere in the engine compartment!
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Old 12-14-2006, 08:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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here you go, this is the wiring diagram from the service manual.

2005+ Tacoma Towing Electrical Diagram PDF

there looks to be some work involved... i plan to do the same thing in the future, lemme know how this turns out, and if there are any others you need...

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Old 12-14-2006, 09:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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That helped me out too. Thanks hack.
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Old 12-14-2006, 09:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Hack,
Your A Good Man!!!
Thanks!!
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Old 12-15-2006, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I installed fog lights on my rear bumper as back up lights. I spliced it into the backup light wire in the towing harness with a 10 amp fuse. Six months later my ignition fuse blew. The dealer said the two 55watt lights I installedwas drawing too much power from the wire. My 10 amp fuse was fine. Is there any truth to this? They charged me for the diagnoses. I am going to change using a relays instead. I thought the towing harness should be able to handle the power draw directly without a relay.
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Old 12-15-2006, 04:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It's possible because trialer lights don't usually draw that much power. Even with all the running lights and my 2 interior dome lights on my 6x10, it doesn't drain more than 110W...it's probably on the order of 70W or less.
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Old 12-15-2006, 04:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmanphx
I installed fog lights on my rear bumper as back up lights. I spliced it into the backup light wire in the towing harness with a 10 amp fuse. Six months later my ignition fuse blew. The dealer said the two 55watt lights I installedwas drawing too much power from the wire. My 10 amp fuse was fine. Is there any truth to this? They charged me for the diagnoses. I am going to change using a relays instead. I thought the towing harness should be able to handle the power draw directly without a relay.
I think the dealer is right on this one. The 10A fuse IG1 which drives the backup lights also drives a few other things I imagine, so it would blow before your 10A fuse did.

Quick check (assuming I'm reading this right) shows it driving stuff on the speedo (shift lights), bunch of stuff on the skid control if installed, airbag ECU, 4wd ECU diff lock, shift lock, occupant detection, speed sensor, air mix servo for the AC. Run the wrong combination of devices while backing up, and the IG1 fuse should blow before your 10A did.

55W x 2 = 110W /12V = 9+ amps in my math, can anyone confirm or deny that?
Your plan to use a relay on the backup light circuit shouldn't be a problem. Maybe tap into the battery charge (for towing) circuit, its 30A with nothing else on it, for the power side of the relay.

This technical advice is insured up to the value of what you paid for it, which is nothing, which may be all the advice is worth also.
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Old 12-15-2006, 09:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTFM
I think the dealer is right on this one. The 10A fuse IG1 which drives the backup lights also drives a few other things I imagine, so it would blow before your 10A fuse did.

Quick check (assuming I'm reading this right) shows it driving stuff on the speedo (shift lights), bunch of stuff on the skid control if installed, airbag ECU, 4wd ECU diff lock, shift lock, occupant detection, speed sensor, air mix servo for the AC. Run the wrong combination of devices while backing up, and the IG1 fuse should blow before your 10A did.

55W x 2 = 110W /12V = 9+ amps in my math, can anyone confirm or deny that?
Your plan to use a relay on the backup light circuit shouldn't be a problem. Maybe tap into the battery charge (for towing) circuit, its 30A with nothing else on it, for the power side of the relay.

This technical advice is insured up to the value of what you paid for it, which is nothing, which may be all the advice is worth also.
Which color wire is the battery charge wire in the towing harness? Yes, when my Ignitin fuse blew, the transmission would not shift into overdrive, cruise stopped working, no turn signals, or back up lights. I had brakes lights. Check engine light came on. Also the transmission shifter would not release out of park unless I pressed the overide switch

Thanks for your help
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Old 12-15-2006, 10:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmanphx
Which color wire is the battery charge wire in the towing harness?
Should be the black wire on pin 2. Good Luck
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Old 12-17-2006, 01:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The factory wiring harness should have come with a 27 page installation book. I believe I saw it posted here someware. This book has step by step instructions and makes the job easy and foolproof. Your dealer may have an extra as one should have come with each harness they installed. If you have trouble PM me and I will scan mine for you.
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Old 12-18-2006, 02:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I just installed the OEM trailer harness for my 07 taco this weekend. PITA. You need the manual to install this thing. It should have the harness, converter that installs near the steering wheel, a relay and a couple of 30A fuses. Cut up my hands real good putting in the harness and converter. Knowing what to look for was also a pain. Mine was a 4-pin harness for I-4 2WD, not sure if its the same as what you have.
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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ROBOT,
Is it worth the hassle or should I simply pay the dealer?
How many hours did it take?
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlaveToTheNeedl
ROBOT,
Is it worth the hassle or should I simply pay the dealer?
How many hours did it take?
Do it yourself. I had mine installed in less than a half hour. The hardest part was finding the damn connector block that is taped on the driver kick panel. If you can look up there, you'll see it once you remove some tape.
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