Bed outlet

[sears]

I searched but couldnt find an answer.

Is there a DIY write up on adding the bed outlet for those that didnt get it from the factory?

Thanks,
Justin

[Phi Kai]

Very doubtful. I'm not sure if you guys have the pocket back there as a spot for it, as well as I can only imagine how much it would cost to buy the factory parts. Your best bet would be to buy an inverter take it apart and figure out how to mount the plugs and wire it up yourself.

[cddallara]

I was tossing around that idea, combining junkyard (factory) parts, with an aftermarket inverter. I need something to charge my cordless' batteries when I'm going job to job...

BTW, the pocket is there.

[mt1961]

The wiring to the factory outlet is probably about maxxed. I installed a larger inverter for the rear outlet and left the factory inverter for incab. I was going to use the outlet in the back for the new inverter, but after seeing the size of the factory wire, no way. I fabbed a new outlet using a plate made out of aluminum, a flanged 110v inlet, and a marine grade cover. The new receptacle will handle 20 amps and with an 1800 watt inverter that's what I needed. You could make an outlet, but I believe you'd have to have the compartment that is made for the 110 volt outlet to mount it in the same location. I believe on models without the 110 volt there is just a bigger compartment. You could always mount a flanged inlet in one of your compartments.

[adventure1]

Why don't you just get a portable inverter and keep it in the glovebox?

[beastbluetaco]

toobluetacoma06 gave me this write up for an inverter mod.

It's a really easy mod actually:

1) Get a power converter

2)Remove the plate containing the plugs and the switch from the converter.

3) Next, remove the plugs and switch from the plate. They will probably just pop out. IMPORTANT!!: be sure you mark which wires go where before you start cutting them.

4) Then, find a location to mount the plugs and the switch and cut the proper holes (I used the plate that the plugs came from as a template to cut the holes) See pictures on my cardomain.

5) Mount the plugs and switch with loads of hot glue so that they wont move.

6) Now extend all the wires that you cut to remove the plugs and switch and run them to the new plug and switch location.

7) Attach the wires to the PROPER terminals. I soldered wires to the terminals on the plugs and switch. I then connected those wires with quick connects to the wires from the converter to make things easier.

8) Next, use like 12AWG or 10AWG (depending on how many watts your converter is) wire for + and - leads from the converter. I grounded the converter to one of the seat bolts.

9) In my case, I had to install a "master" or second switch in-line with the + lead from the converter. I did this because when I ran the power straight to the battery from the converter, even w/ the converter turned off, one of the LEDs was still glowing. I didn't want that to run my battery down over time so I just installed a master swtich in the + lead from the converter. I keep the master switch off and the converter switch on so I only have to flip one switch.

10) Just incase, add an in-line fuse in the + lead right after the battery connection. Even though most converters have fuses, this will add a little safety. You can use whatever amp fuse your converter already has in it.

[lotust]

Yep its pretty easy to do like beastbluetaco pointed out.

I just completed the in cab 110v ac mod. It took me a few hours even with me having the inverter allready under my seat. But it was a PITA to get to when you were driving. I followed PB's writeup to figure out how to get the consol out. Its VERY easy. I used a El cheapy Vector I had laying around for now. It powers a laptop or a droplight very easyily.


here are some pics.



Led and switch.



I screwed the inverter right to the floor near the rear mounting tabs only. The front of the inverter kinda hangs in the air. Its very sturdy though.

[Kenny]

Not to Hi-Jack the thread but sears how are the rims comming along?

[MrGrimm]

i plan on doing the same sometime. i am not too good with wiring though...

[nktrnl]

Originally Posted by beastbluetaco

7) Attach the wires to the PROPER terminals. I soldered wires to the terminals on the plugs and switch. I then connected those wires with quick connects to the wires from the converter to make things easier.

Just so you know you should NOT solder your connections. Ask any electrician. Most solder is silver, or has a very high silver content, and most of the electrical system is copper. You should not mix different metals as it will fall apart in time.

[lotust]

Originally Posted by nktrnl

Just so you know you should NOT solder your connections. Ask any electrician. Most solder is silver, or has a very high silver content, and most of the electrical system is copper. You should not mix different metals as it will fall apart in time.

bs

[Phi Kai]

Originally Posted by nktrnl

Just so you know you should NOT solder your connections. Ask any electrician. Most solder is silver, or has a very high silver content, and most of the electrical system is copper. You should not mix different metals as it will fall apart in time.

I don't think the crimps are copper either...OMG WHAT WILL HAPPEN!! Seriously no entire electrical system is copper...

[lotust]

nearly every peice of electronic device in the world used solder. we are all doomed!!!!

[nomad]

The only time that I can think of where mixing dissimilar metals can be bad is in a marine environment. You'll often see galvanic corrosion in areas where you might have a stainless steel screw going through and making contact with an aluminum plate (just one example).

I always make sure my soldered connections have shrink tubing on them or are somehow very well insulated. There's not a thing wrong with solder. Go tear open a 50+ year old piece of electronic equipment (old AM radios or something similar) and tell me what you see... I can promise you it's not bubble gum holding those components in there.

[cddallara]

Originally Posted by nomad

The only time that I can think of where mixing dissimilar metals can be bad is in a marine environment. You'll often see galvanic corrosion in areas where you might have a stainless steel screw going through and making contact with an aluminum plate (just one example).

I always make sure my soldered connections have shrink tubing on them or are somehow very well insulated. There's not a thing wrong with solder. Go tear open a 50+ year old piece of electronic equipment (old AM radios or something similar) and tell me what you see... I can promise you it's not bubble gum holding those components in there.

Don't forget the wonderful aluminum "romex" that popped up during one of the copper shortages...

I see all the time where connections are faulty/burned/too big of breakers. (12 alum is only good for 15 amps)

We use an oxide inhibitor when combining the two (cu/al), and you should use appropriately marked devices (switches/plugs) for al wire...

But solder? Hell, go for it!!