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So you say you want a "beep?"

100K views 126 replies 37 participants last post by  Toyota209  
#1 · (Edited)
Revision "A" Starts at post #84 (bottom of page 6)

It is a much simpler way to do this mod, no tiny hands needed to secure your wire tap in place. This is also important because those without the DRL setup do not have the black box on the side of the fuse panel.

Post #31 has the original version pic's. I have updated the thread and pic's at the revision "A" post #84.

The only down-side to this mod is still found at #29 (and again at #84)


HAPPY BEEPING!!!



Well, I got it! For those of us with just the plain remote door lock/unlock, you can now add a "beep." I have tested this, now I just need to do it. (and take pic's)

1) go to radio shack and pick up a piezo buzzer, I already had one so no part number handy, they have a few though and any will work

2)wire number 10, solid white wire coming off of your turn signal/ DRL relay (kind of on the side of your fuse panel inside the truck)

3) connect the + side of the buzzer (they are polarity specific) to a constant +12, even with the key off

4) connect the - side of your buzzer to wire 10

5) sit back, feet up and play with your new "beep"

Theory-
Wire 10 is a constant +12v going to the turn relay. When the unlock/lock circuit sends a signal to the turn relay, it grounds out that +12 volts. Since you already have a constant +12v on the proper side of your buzzer, when the other side gets grounded out, the buzzer "beeps" but only when locking or unlocking.

Now, like I said, I just have to do this. I will probably just put the buzzer in the lower left kick panel and see how loud it is. With my head under the dash, it was pretty d@mn loud, so it should be loud enough to hear when walking away. If not, I may move it to the engine compartment.


See post 31 for pic's and a few more details.

See post 29 for the only (slightly) bad side effect.
Image
 
#2 ·
Well, I got it! For those of us with just the plain remote door lock/unlock, you can now add a "beep." I have tested this, now I just need to do it. (and take pic's)

1) go to radio shack and pick up a piezo buzzer, I already had one so no part number handy, they have a few though and any will work

2)wire number 10, solid white wire coming off of your turn signal/ DRL relay (kind of on the side of your fuse panel inside the truck)

3) connect the + side of the buzzer (they are polarity specific) to a constant +12, even with the key off

4) connect the - side of your buzzer to wire 10

5) sit back, feet up and play with your new "beep"

Theory-
Wire 10 is a constant +12v going to the turn relay. When the unlock/lock circuit sends a signal to the turn relay, it grounds out that +12 volts. Since you already have a constant +12v on the proper side of your buzzer, when the other side gets grounded out, the buzzer "beeps" but only when locking or unlocking.

Now, like I said, I just have to do this. I will probably just put the buzzer in the lower left kick panel and see how loud it is. With my head under the dash, it was pretty d@mn loud, so it should be loud enough to hear when walking away. If not, I may move it to the engine compartment.
Image


Intresting. I like this idea. Do you have pics of the 10th wire? :thumbup:
 
#3 ·
Nope, not yet, but I will. I still have to post some pic's of the sheet of aluminum I stuck between the tailgate composite stuff (cr@p) and the tailgate itself (really weak cr@p) to strengthen it a bit. Lots of running around with kids and stuff equals not a lot of time for myself. Hopefully, this weekend....
 
#4 ·
I think I'll do this. Thanks for posting!
 
#11 · (Edited)
Will this beep everytime the DTRL are on? or when i flip my turn signals on?

Definitely no! (And it absolutely nothing to do with the fact that I just went out to double-check either!)



I did find out however, that with the buzzer I have, it is too quiet with it inside the cab. I think a definite engine compartment placement is in order.
 
#6 ·
you could probably do the same thing with the horn, just be sure to throw in some diodes to avoid the reverse current.
 
#13 ·
Or just use a different (second) horn. My concern here though is that the current draw on the horn would be excessive for the body ecu when it gets grounded. Maybe, maybe not. If you really want the horn, I would go with a second horn and a relay setup.
 
#8 ·
sweet! I'll be eager to see your pics and if your theory is right! Sometimes I double click the remote trying to hear the door lock actuators since it's hard to see the lights during the day.
 
#9 ·
I've been wishing that our trucks had this "feature." I'd definitely install one, as long as it is ONLY going to beep with locking/unlocking (I didn't quite understand your rational as to why it would work). I wonder if, through the use of a relay, the horn could be wired to the locks?
 
#14 ·

Interesting, but for 30.00? For 5.00 for the buzzer and a few bucks for the "professional taps" same as tap-a-wire or add-a-tap, you could save a few smackers. You still have to do the wiring anyways. If he would come out and do it for 30.00, I might think about it. Of course, if you are near Portland, OR, I would gladly help/do it for members (for free).

Odd, I do not know why I did not think to "google" it.....
 
#18 ·
Would it be possible to just wire the positive side of the piezo alarm straight to the battery since it won't be pulling any juice seeing as how it's not grounded out?
 
#20 ·
I'm buying the 108dB piezo buzzer tonight from Radio Shack as soon as I get off work, I'll let you guys know how it goes. Anyone here think that 108dBs will be too loud?
 
#22 ·
Here is another solution for it. I have a 2-way remote starter installed. I do not even use factory key fob. When I click the "door lock" button, I have a visual confirmation on my remote. And I can do it from 2000' away.
 
#23 ·
That's cool. Which one does that? Only ones I knew that did any confirmation on the FOB were the 2-way pager alarms.

I have a manual so I wouldn't be doing a remote start. As nice as it would be, the hassle of doing remote start on a manual the "right" way isn't worth it. A simple buzzer would be fine for me! :lol: Probably much cheaper and easier too!
 
#29 ·
What a royal pain in the @ss!!! Trying to upload some photos take hours apparently on this forum!! Now, I have to start a friggin photo bucket account just to get some pic's here? On the FJ forum, you just go advanced and "manage attachments" (the tacoma world site too).


I am working on it though. I will leave you all with one thought on this mod. It has an interesting but not totally bad side effect....

It works fine, just as it should, nothing annoying, until.............






Yup, because I tied into the signal from the body ecu to the flasher relay on the "4-way" wire (there was no other one), when you put your 4-ways on, it beeps. And no, not once or twice, it is solid. This is because although your lights are blinking (this is a result of the flasher relay) the relay is still getting a solid negative signal from the body ecu. If you can live with that, you're golden. Me, I think I can. I may still put a switch in line to kill it if I so desire, but for now, it stays.
 
#60 ·
I am working on it though. I will leave you all with one thought on this mod. It has an interesting but not totally bad side effect....

Yup, because I tied into the signal from the body ecu to the flasher relay on the "4-way" wire (there was no other one), when you put your 4-ways on, it beeps. And no, not once or twice, it is solid. This is because although your lights are blinking (this is a result of the flasher relay) the relay is still getting a solid negative signal from the body ecu. If you can live with that, you're golden. Me, I think I can. I may still put a switch in line to kill it if I so desire, but for now, it stays.
"4-way"? with that do you mean when the hazards are on it does a constant beep?

Thx!
 
#31 ·
Okay here goes...
The place where I ran my wire through the firewall, already a rubber boot there. I did not even have to punch a new hole through it, snaked it along the hood release cable.

Image


In the end, I decided on the sonalert, it seemed the loudest. However, I do have 2 piezo buzzers here. Free to good home (yes, free shipping too, gosh!), RS numbers: 273-065a and 273-060a. I used an "L" bracket I had laying around, siliconed the buzzer in place (no other easy way to mount it) and bolted it to an existing threaded hole. After the silicone fully cures, I will turn the buzzer sideways, pointing back, just to help minimize water and dirt infiltration.

Image


Image


More photos coming (not sure if since I am a noob, there may be a limit???)
 
#32 ·
That being done, we move to the interior. Have kids, girlfriend with small hands, Houdini? You will need one or more of the above! As I stated earlier, the flasher relay is kind of on the right hand side of the interior fuse box. It is a black box, kind accessible and the molex connection is not hard to remove.

Image


The solid white wire, where the screwdriver is pointing to, is the one you want. In this pic you can see the green with red stripe wire that I cut, put an inline switch in, for DRL on/off control.

Image


This is about the only time you will ever see me use a scotchloc crimp type connector. I prefer a good quality connection that does not nick or mar the wire. But, here, since it is such low current (and a bit easier in such tight quarters), I went ahead with it. The one I used was actually from AMP. This one had 2 halves instead of a one-piece fold-over shell. thihs allowed me to crimp it on my new wire first, then stick it, already in the jaws of the pliers, up in there and over the wire.

Image


Again, positive of your buzzer to a constant +12 volts. The negative side of your buzzer to the solid white wire (number 10) on the flasher relay.

ENJOY!
 
#35 ·
Interesting. But since the vehicle horn is on a constant 12V, with the ground being made when you press the horn button down, wouldn't this work the same way? Taking a wire and running it from the ground on the horn, to the white wire that you're talking about? I'd love to have an audible beep when I press the button, as I'm always double-checking it before I go into work everyday.
Unfortunatly, it's -20*C here for the next few days, and I'm not crazy enough (yet), to try this myself. But now that I know which wire it is, I may give this a try when it warms up some.
 
#48 ·
Interesting. But since the vehicle horn is on a constant 12V, with the ground being made when you press the horn button down, wouldn't this work the same way? Taking a wire and running it from the ground on the horn, to the white wire that you're talking about? I'd love to have an audible beep when I press the button, as I'm always double-checking it before I go into work everyday.
Unfortunatly, it's -20*C here for the next few days, and I'm not crazy enough (yet), to try this myself. But now that I know which wire it is, I may give this a try when it warms up some.
In the Toyotas, I do not think the horn is constant +12v.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Taking a wire and running it from the ground on the horn, to the white wire that you're talking about?
If I understand you correctly, then that would mean going from ground to the buzzer, and then back to ground (the white wire is ground when the buzzer is supposed to sound and +12V otherwise, correct?). That would not work. The buzzer would be constantly on, and only off when you lock?
 
#49 · (Edited)
If I understand this correctly too, it seems like when you hit the horn, your doors would lock or unlock and the buzzer would sound?????

Also, make sure to connect the +12V of the buzzer through a fuse of the appropriate size.

Great Ideda! Duh, forgot about that in my excitement.

What size fuse would be appropriate for this application? 5A? 7.5A? I plan on doing this mod sometime later today but I think I'm going to wire the piezo buzzer straight to the battery so that I don't have to tap into any more wires than I have to. To the OP, what piezo buzzer would you recommend from Radio Shack where I could get a "beep" as close in sound to the one that is on http://www.moerse.com/Products/Taco/Buzzer.htm?
A 1 amp fuse would probably be just fine. These buzzers only draw about 20 milliamps.

Again, almost any buzzer would do. The piezos from radio shack are good and cheap (I have 2 to give away in an earlier post), but I went with a sonalert that I also had laying around. I think it sounds pretty darn close to stock. Of course, if yours sounds different, it may be easier to find in a crowded parking lot this time of year.
 
#37 ·
Also, make sure to connect the +12V of the buzzer through a fuse of the appropriate size.
 
#39 ·
What size fuse would be appropriate for this application? 5A? 7.5A? I plan on doing this mod sometime later today but I think I'm going to wire the piezo buzzer straight to the battery so that I don't have to tap into any more wires than I have to. To the OP, what piezo buzzer would you recommend from Radio Shack where I could get a "beep" as close in sound to the one that is on http://www.moerse.com/Products/Taco/Buzzer.htm?
 
#40 · (Edited)
What size fuse would be appropriate for this application?
Look at the buzzer spec, and use a fuse rated maybe around twice the current rating of the buzzer?