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Old 04-04-2009, 12:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How to reset ABS light?

I was driving down Hollywood Blvd when some jackass decides to drive on the wrong side of the road in front of me. I slammed my breaks and swerved around him, then went on my way. Afterwards, I noticed that my ABS light came on. Any way to reset it WITHOUT having to go to the dealer? All threads I've found regarding this issue involve bringing it in to the dealer/auto shop. (I'm not under warranty anymore btw)
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Old 04-04-2009, 12:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Maybe try disconnecting the battery for a bit? Also, is the red brake light on as well? If so, it may mean that the fluid is low.
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Old 04-04-2009, 02:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Mjonags,

You can't just clear the code by disconnecting the battery. There is a procedure, I'll get to that in a minute.

Generally if the ABS light is on, your ECU is trying to tell you it thinks you have a problem. You should check it out. Otherwise, it will just come on again. The good news is, you can start the process the same way you'll eventually clear the code.

First, connect terminal 4 and 13 of the OBD-II socket (under the dash in front of your left knee) with a jumper wire. (Those are the 4th from the left on the top and the fifth from the left on the bottom.)

Turn the ignition to on. You'll notice lots of flashing lights, but just pay attention to the ABS light. Normally, it should be rapidly and steadily flashing, twice per second. If it has stored a trouble code, it will instead be flashing a pattern that will coding a two-digit number. There may be more than one code being flashed out. It will just repeat the code over and over, so you have plenty of time to figure it out and write it (them) down.

NOW you can clear the codes. Just tap the brakes rapidly 8 or more times, about two taps per second. You don't have to jam on the brakes, just tap them enough to blink the brake lights. If you're successful, the ABS light should return to its normal fast blinking. Now remove the jumper wire, and finally turn off the key.

Now when you turn on the key, the ABS light should just do its normal light for three seconds and go off. If it comes back on, you still have a problem

You can look up the trouble code in the online tacoma FSM that you can find by googling, or you can post the code here and ask. Have fun!
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Pliz Advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurDonor View Post
Mjonags,
How to go about in OBD 1


You can't just clear the code by disconnecting the battery. There is a procedure, I'll get to that in a minute.

Generally if the ABS light is on, your ECU is trying to tell you it thinks you have a problem. You should check it out. Otherwise, it will just come on again. The good news is, you can start the process the same way you'll eventually clear the code.

First, connect terminal 4 and 13 of the OBD-II socket (under the dash in front of your left knee) with a jumper wire. (Those are the 4th from the left on the top and the fifth from the left on the bottom.)

Turn the ignition to on. You'll notice lots of flashing lights, but just pay attention to the ABS light. Normally, it should be rapidly and steadily flashing, twice per second. If it has stored a trouble code, it will instead be flashing a pattern that will coding a two-digit number. There may be more than one code being flashed out. It will just repeat the code over and over, so you have plenty of time to figure it out and write it (them) down.

NOW you can clear the codes. Just tap the brakes rapidly 8 or more times, about two taps per second. You don't have to jam on the brakes, just tap them enough to blink the brake lights. If you're successful, the ABS light should return to its normal fast blinking. Now remove the jumper wire, and finally turn off the key.

Now when you turn on the key, the ABS light should just do its normal light for three seconds and go off. If it comes back on, you still have a problem

You can look up the trouble code in the online tacoma FSM that you can find by googling, or you can post the code here and ask. Have fun!
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:29 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Worked for me! Light came on last night on the way home from work and wouldnt go out. Google from my phone, found this and cleared this morning. All is good.

Thanks!!!

Stupid lights anyway
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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clearing..

Will it also work on Toyota Previa?
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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So just stick a wire in both terminals?
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Didn't work for me.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Just to update MJ's thread with what his problem was for future reference here on TN because this just might come up with one of us in the future:

Quote:
Hey Jim!
Yeah my light is still on. But it's a bigger problem than what I anticipated. I used this thread to diagnose:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...ml#post5420260

Then found out I need a whole new ABS actuator
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...about-abs.html

So I just say screw it and not deal with it
I'm also going to add this link (which is linked in one of those threads) and is sort of unrelated to MJs situation. But man oh man, the damage that can occur from jump starting a vehicle!

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...y-failure.html
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Bummer. Yesterday, out-of-the-blue both my ABS and Skid Control lights came on together and stayed that way for about 10 miles. I finally pulled over and turned off the truck, restarted it and no lights. As soon as it warms up here today I'll put the scan tool on it and see if anything is stored.
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taco'09 View Post
Bummer. Yesterday, out-of-the-blue both my ABS and Skid Control lights came on together and stayed that way for about 10 miles. I finally pulled over and turned off the truck, restarted it and no lights. As soon as it warms up here today I'll put the scan tool on it and see if anything is stored.
^^ So, it looks like its the good old C1249 code, Open in Stop Light Switch Circuit.

According to the FSM this can be anything from high resistance in the stop light switch, to a defect in the combination meter, to high resistance in a fuse, to a blown skid control unit. The FSM also says the Skid Control/Traction Control light is also lit when this code appears.

No lights on at the moment. I think I'll look at the easy stuff first and wait to see if it reappears. If anyone has seen this code I'd appreciate a chime in as to what it was for you. Not going to be a happy camper if the skid unit is shot...

Last edited by Taco'09; 05-08-2013 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Update!

Ok. So I tried the easy stuff first. When I got to the stoplight switch it was showing "scratchy" resistance and continuity on the scope and VOM meters.

I took it apart. The contacts were all burned up from electrical arcing. Guess what? On el cheapo Tacos they ditched the brake light relay and routed the current directly through the switch. Nice touch. Looks like this is possibly going to be a 30k maintenance item on my truck.

Toyota engineers conversation on how to further cut costs on lower level trucks: "Relay? We ain't got no relay. We don't need no stinkin' relay."
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