DIY: Front Wheel Bearing Change 4wd Taco - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 07-23-2009, 09:56 AM
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DIY: Front Wheel Bearing Change 4wd Taco

Well due to a high demand and my unfortunate requirement for a new wheel bearing I am posting a Do It Yourself for a front wheel bearing change. This was roughly a 2 hour work period for myself as well as an hours worth of time at the Napa Machine Shop to press off the old bearing and on a new one with a new seal.

1. Of course, remove the front wheel

2. Remove the anti lock brake sensor. This is done with a 10mm socket or wrench. This is located on the front side of the hub or at your right hand side when you are working on it. You will need to follow the rubber line up the suspension and unclamp it. There is one plastic clamp right above the CV shaft as well as 2 metal clamps on the upper suspension arm. Use needle nose pliers for this.



3. Remove the brake line mount. This is done with a 12mm socket or wrench. It is located on the back side of the spindle.



4. Remove the caliper. This is done utilizing a 17mm deep well socket (alternate of short socket with extension) or wrench. One helpful item is to spread the brake pads before removing. This makes removal and installation easier. You can spread the brake pads using a flat head screwdriver. I used a medium sized cooler to set the caliper on instead of removing the brake line and having to bleed the brakes. You can see how I did this in a later picture.



5. Once the caliper is removed you can begin removing the plate on the front of the hub. This is accomplished with a flat head screwdriver and hammer alternating sides until it is removed. It will help if you have never removed this to use a chizle (spelling?) or sharpen the head of a screwdriver to get this done. It is on there pretty good so you will have to work at it. Have a couple of flat heads ready as well as one of a larger size. This will help to pry it off once you get it started.





6. Once the plate is removed you will see the CV shaft nut as well as a locking washer. First remove the codder pin. This is done with needle nose pliers and a hammer. Then you will just slide the locking washer off. It is the green item in the picture. This will expose the CV shaft nut.





7. Remove the CV shaft nut. This nut uses a 36mm socket and an impact wrench. I really dont see any way you can get this to budge by hand without an impact wrench but others may be smarter than me.

8. Once the CV nut is removed you can then begin to remove the bolts that hold the hub in place. There are 4 of them and they are all 17mm. Make sure you use the closed end side of the wrench because if you dont you will round off the bolt head. They are pretty tight so it will probably take a hammer to get them to budge. There are indentions on the back of the hub that will allow you to have a little more space to move the wrench. You can see from the picture how it has an indention there. Make sure you loosen the bolts at a similar pace. If you try to back one at a time all the way out you will have issues. Use a rubber mallet to encourage the cv shaft out of the hub.



After that it is just going in reverse order to place everything back together. One thing to watch out for when you get your bearing pressed is to make sure that they put the seal on before pressing the hub and bearing back together. This will cause a premature failure if the seal is not there. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to PM me. I hope this helps anyone that has to do this. A rough estimate for parts and labor (pressing the hub and bearing) can range from $130 to $250 depening on who you buy the parts from. Again that is an estimate for doing the work yourself plus parts and having the hub and bearing pressed.

Last edited by Jamfred774; 07-23-2009 at 03:29 PM.
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#2 Old 07-23-2009, 11:00 AM
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Good work! Thanks for taking the time.



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#3 Old 07-23-2009, 11:15 AM
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Great write up!! I will add it to the DIY section!
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#4 Old 07-23-2009, 10:48 PM
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Great work

Would also be nice to see the 2WD version AND the machine shop work to actually replace the bearing.

Do our calipers have 4 active pucks??
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#5 Old 07-24-2009, 05:43 AM
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Great writeup. Did you price out a replacement hub before deciding to press on a new bearing? That would save the labor charge and might be a wash. I got a hub assembly like this for a Camaro at Advance for about $100 a couple years ago. Probably the Toyota part is a lot more expensive?
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#6 Old 07-24-2009, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by rdsaustintx View Post
Great work

Would also be nice to see the 2WD version AND the machine shop work to actually replace the bearing.

Do our calipers have 4 active pucks??
Honestly I almost bought my own press to do this. You can get a shop press from Harbor Freight for $90 and you can do everything yourself. Unfortunately I do not have the room for it because I have a shared garage with the condo. As far as the caliper it has two pistons on each side.

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#7 Old 07-24-2009, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
Great writeup. Did you price out a replacement hub before deciding to press on a new bearing? That would save the labor charge and might be a wash. I got a hub assembly like this for a Camaro at Advance for about $100 a couple years ago. Probably the Toyota part is a lot more expensive?
Unfortunately I thought the price of the replacement bearing was enough. For the housing and bearing together it was $181 after tax from toyota and the actual hub (part that the CV shaft slides into and your wheel bolts to) was another $225 to 325, I cannot remember for sure. Of course if you head to trdparts4u it is cheaper.

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#8 Old 07-24-2009, 09:53 AM
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one more question

I still have one question... does the part with the studs separate from the hub/bearing assembly that is attached with the 4 bolts? I guess if you press in a new bearing you might not need to separate but if you decide to get the $181 assembly you would need to. I wonder how difficult to separate?
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#9 Old 07-24-2009, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by raylo32 View Post
I still have one question... does the part with the studs separate from the hub/bearing assembly that is attached with the 4 bolts? I guess if you press in a new bearing you might not need to separate but if you decide to get the $181 assembly you would need to. I wonder how difficult to separate?
Yes, it does need to be separated. That is the housing that holds the bearing that will need to be pressed out. A good shop can just order a new bearing to be pressed into the housing. I had an accident in which it required me to replace the housing as well.

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#10 Old 07-24-2009, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamfred774 View Post
As far as the caliper it has two pistons on each side.
Sorry for the topic drift, but that is amazing. Our brakes just feel so squishy.
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#11 Old 07-24-2009, 02:32 PM
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So either way you need a press, right? If you just buy the bearing you need to press it out/in the housing, and if you buy the bearing in a new housing you have to press that out/in of the hub?

Damn, I was hoping to avoid going to a shop.

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#12 Old 07-24-2009, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by nuckinfuts View Post
So either way you need a press, right? If you just buy the bearing you need to press it out/in the housing, and if you buy the bearing in a new housing you have to press that out/in of the hub?

Damn, I was hoping to avoid going to a shop.
Yeah, it stinks but you will need a shop unless you buy a press. The bearing/bearing housing will need the hub pressed out of it. If you choose to just replace the bearings and not the bearings and housing then you will have to press the hub out of the bearings, bearings out of the bearing housing, and then press everything back together again.

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#13 Old 07-24-2009, 04:36 PM
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^While not what I wanted to hear, that's exactly the info I have been trying to figure out. My truck is my only transport and I work weekdays, so I'm going to have to find a shop that can do it on a weekend and not screw it up. Damn I miss the days of machine shop access...

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#14 Old 07-24-2009, 05:36 PM
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Had mine done under warranty at the local dealer last week.

In addition to the bearing, parts also included two new seals as well as an O Ring.

Does the required seals come with the aftermarket bearing/housing, or do they need to be ordered at the dealer? Or reusable?

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#15 Old 07-24-2009, 09:33 PM
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[quote=nuckinfuts;2857552Damn I miss the days of machine shop access...[/quote]

Damn, I miss the days of 3 piece bearings you could replace with a hammer and drift.
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