DIY Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 10-22-2009, 01:20 PM
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DIY Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

This is a work in progress, I will be editing as I go.

2005+ Tacoma Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
1.Lift and support the side of the axle you are working on. It should be higher than the other side to prevent spilling oil.
2.Remove wheel and drum


3.Disconnect the top shoe return spring (big green one)
4.Disconnect bottom shoe return spring (small one)
5.Remove the hold down spring cups. Grasping the edges with vice grips and turning the center piece with need lose pliers works well.
6.Pull the shoes off, and use some pliers to work the parking brake cable loose


7.Remove the parking brake cable from the backing plate with 2 10mm bolts and move it out of the way
8.Disconnect the speed sensor cable
9.Remove the 4 14mm nuts that hold the axle shaft to the housing
10.Loosen the brake line. Use a paper towel under it to catch spills for now


11.Pull the axle shaft out and set it aside
12.Put a vacuum cap or something over the end of the brake line to prevent spillage
13.Remove the rear speed sensor
14.Remove the axle shaft snap ring

And that is where I am at so far. My plan at this point is to take the axle shaft to a shop tomorrow to have it removed from the hub assembly with a press. I tried smacking it with a BFH and some prybars with no luck.

Anyone have any ideas on how to remove it without a press?
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#2 Old 10-22-2009, 04:27 PM
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I don't have a solution. The manual says you need a press and a special tool.

What happened to the bearing? What was the symptom? Maybe you can take the axle to the dealer and have them do the pressing part and you do the rest.

'07 Tacoma Silver DC PR SB SR5 V6 AT TP LSD
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#3 Old 10-22-2009, 04:34 PM
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Roaring sound from 35mph up, and vibration from 40-45mph. Clearly coming from the right side when running the engine in gear on a lift, and now with the axle shaft out, I can feel and hear the notches when turning it by hand.

Don't want to spend $85 or whatever the hourly rate is for 5 minutes of work. I plan on taking it to a machine shop tomorrow.

I am hoping that maybe a machine shop will have some way of removing the bearing the from hub assembly so I can reuse the hub. Normally the dealer replaces both at the same time as they have no way of removing the bearing from the hub. Bearing is $23, hub is $375.
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#4 Old 10-23-2009, 08:34 AM
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Please keep us updated.

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#5 Old 10-23-2009, 01:22 PM
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I surprised that you didn't have leakage, every Toyota rear wheel bearing I've saw start to fail had seapage past the bearing (usually taking out a set of brake shoes with it).
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#6 Old 10-23-2009, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AK05Taco View Post
I surprised that you didn't have leakage, every Toyota rear wheel bearing I've saw start to fail had seapage past the bearing (usually taking out a set of brake shoes with it).
Is that on late models? With how the bearing and oil seal arrangement is, I don't see how they could leak without letting the bearing really go. The oil seal is behind the bearing assembly and seals against the long inner bearing race, just below the C clip on the axle, it has white grease on it where the oil seal touches it in my picture above.
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#7 Old 10-23-2009, 01:41 PM
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I guess this isn't going to much of a DIY after all. I went to a couple places and they said they wouldn't do it, they would need the special tool, or to make their own to bolt up to the 4 mounting bolts.

Now the question is do I take it to the dealer, or buy a salvage axle with a locker? The axle is only a couple hundred bucks more, I would have a spare axle shaft and bearing, and get a locker out of the deal.
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#8 Old 10-24-2009, 12:15 PM
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Gotta press it, no other way, tried an air chisel on my 86 bearings, barely budged. Now, try taking it to a machine shop, they'll press it, that drum backer should come off. I have no experience with the newer tacomas, but the rear appears the same. Those bolts are generally like wheel studs, tapered a bit. Put the nuts back on the ends and tap em a bit, that'll get the studs out, can't really tell by the pics, but thats how must are attached. That drum backer should be able to come off too. I've pressed many axle bearings and never had special "OEM" adapters or tools, just gotta stack some steel or use some adapters from ball joint presses to get 'em in, just gotta look at the problem a bit. Hope this helps ya' a bit, Take care
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#9 Old 10-24-2009, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy556 View Post
Is that on late models? With how the bearing and oil seal arrangement is, I don't see how they could leak without letting the bearing really go. The oil seal is behind the bearing assembly and seals against the long inner bearing race, just below the C clip on the axle, it has white grease on it where the oil seal touches it in my picture above.
Am I reading this right? The bearing doesn't run in the axle oil?
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#10 Old 10-24-2009, 02:06 PM
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By the look of it and the wheel bearings I have done, what you need to do is cut the ring that holds the bearing in place, machine shops usually press off the the bearing after they cut the ring off.

You need to go to an auto parts store that has a machine shop and the correct press or you will destroy the axel or the backing plate.


I have never seen one where the backing plate stayed with the axel, most vehicles with that type bearing the backing plate stays with the vehicle, just supported by the brake line and the studs.

More than likely that thick plate is just stuck, try tapping on the studs, put a the nuts back on and give them a few hits that should seperate the backing plate from the axel.
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#11 Old 10-24-2009, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdsaustintx View Post
Am I reading this right? The bearing doesn't run in the axle oil?
Correct. The bearing is outside of the axle oil seal.
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#12 Old 10-24-2009, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bee guz View Post
By the look of it and the wheel bearings I have done, what you need to do is cut the ring that holds the bearing in place, machine shops usually press off the the bearing after they cut the ring off.

You need to go to an auto parts store that has a machine shop and the correct press or you will destroy the axel or the backing plate.


I have never seen one where the backing plate stayed with the axel, most vehicles with that type bearing the backing plate stays with the vehicle, just supported by the brake line and the studs.

More than likely that thick plate is just stuck, try tapping on the studs, put a the nuts back on and give them a few hits that should seperate the backing plate from the axel.
No go on getting the backing plate off, I wailed on it with a sledge hammer with no result. According to the service manual, you press it off like so:

The special tool is a pipe that goes over the axle shaft and bolts up to the backing plate
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#13 Old 10-25-2009, 09:03 AM
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Use heat. I do this all the time at work to release a press fit. A propane torch should be sufficient for this job. Heat the outside quickly, hold the torch close to surface and point the flame directly onto surface. Work quickly, after heating the outside evenly all the way around but before the heat has had a chance to transfer to the bearing use a hammer to hit the pressed in object and she should drop right out.
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#14 Old 10-25-2009, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy556 View Post
No go on getting the backing plate off, I wailed on it with a sledge hammer with no result. According to the service manual, you press it off like so:

The special tool is a pipe that goes over the axle shaft and bolts up to the backing plate
They are always exceptions to the rules, most I have done, not on this particular vehicle, the backing plat stays with the rear end assembly.

If you can find a auto parts store with a machine shop they will have this press, I would suggest buying the bearing off them, don't try to buy the bearing someplace else unless they can't get it, ask them first.

Some garages will have it also but not all.

There is no way your going to be able to take this apart, without destroying something so don't try, you will wind up spending way more money, than having it pressed apart and back together.
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#15 Old 10-26-2009, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy556 View Post
Is that on late models? With how the bearing and oil seal arrangement is, I don't see how they could leak without letting the bearing really go. The oil seal is behind the bearing assembly and seals against the long inner bearing race, just below the C clip on the axle, it has white grease on it where the oil seal touches it in my picture above.
Nope, on a any Toyotat semi floater axle aperently before the 05's... I talked to a buddy of mine at the dealer and it is infact a different assembly than the old style. I'd either make that "special tool" or have one made, it's just a pipe with a couple of plates welded to it. The bottom one would be the only one you would need the holes in, not sure why they put hole in the top one. It you don't have the tools to cut and weld, just have a shop do that part (should be less than $100) and drill the holes yourself using the gasket as a template.

P.S. That isn't a c-clip you're talkign about, I think Toyota calls it a "bearing retaining ring" or some such thing. A c-clip is used at the oposite end of the axle on other rears to hold the axles in the housing.
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