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Old 09-15-2010, 04:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Replacing universal joint

Hey all, just looking for any tips or tricks to replacing the U-joint on our trucks. Pretty sure it should be simple but always safe to get some advice first. Also any notable difference between buying OEM vs Kragen or NAPA for a replacement universal joint?

--I have a 2007 V6, 6 lug, Double Cab Pre Runner TRD Off Road--

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Old 09-16-2010, 12:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Nope, they press out just like any other U-joint on the road. To drop the shaft you'll have to unbolt the center bearing from the frame, just leave it on the drive shaft.

I don't know about relative quality. I've run Napa U-joints in my Ranger for several years without failure.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Just wanted to throw this out for you, OEM UJOINTS are $75.24 each MSRP. I sell them for 52.67 plus shipping. This at least gives you something to gauge on or if you are shopping around.
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What makes you change your u-joints? A vibration problem? Are you selling lots of these toyopartsman?
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It is usually for vibration. I am not selling a lot of them, but enough to stock them. I sell on average one, maybe two a month. In the grand scheme of things, for me, that's not a lot. It is just enough that when a customer does come in, I have the parts should they want to fix the car.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It is pressed in? Do I need a special tool to remove it and then a press to put it back in?

I need to replace it because its vibrating, sounds like metal from time to time and makes the worst squeaking/chirping noise if i don't cover it in lubricant.
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Old 09-18-2010, 09:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Matchmark everything before you remove and disassemble, so it all goes back together the same and keeps factory balance.

A hammer and a good vice should do the trick for disassembly and assembly.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes, press them in and out, once you remove the clip. A vice works, although it is a little unwieldy with that long shaft. I have a handheld press that look like a C-clamp. For punches and receiver tubes (whatever they are called), I just use sockets.
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Bringing an old thread to life again. So my u joint finally failed and snapped, now I am trying to replace it.

So far I have the carrier bearing unbolted and all four bolts at the rear of the driveshaft removed...but the driveshaft doesn't seem to want to drop. I've tried prying it, kicking it and pulling it but it wont budge. Any advice?

EDIT: Nevermind, kept hitting it with a hammer and finally got it to drop.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm also going to re-visit this thread.just changed the mid driveshaft joint today,went fairly easy(1 hr job) A word of advice:whenever you hear a clanking noise when releasing the gas and pressing it again or when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse better check the univ. joints.this could save a ton of money.just as I was popping the old bearings out the whole thing came appart.one of the caps was already broken and most of the bearings were all rusted even tough the whole joint looked o.k. on the outside. my 2cts.
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:16 AM   #11 (permalink)
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^ I second that. A clunking noise while changing from D-R and R-D. Or a jolting feeling from coasting to gas, then a free feeling after letting off the gas. All a sign of a failing u joint. Truck runs smooth as silk now that I have a new u joint, and i replaced the cracked yoke.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomonte View Post
I'm also going to re-visit this thread.just changed the mid driveshaft joint today,went fairly easy(1 hr job) A word of advice:whenever you hear a clanking noise when releasing the gas and pressing it again or when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse better check the univ. joints.this could save a ton of money.just as I was popping the old bearings out the whole thing came appart.one of the caps was already broken and most of the bearings were all rusted even tough the whole joint looked o.k. on the outside. my 2cts.
If you don't mind me asking, is yours a PreRunner i.e. you do not have the greasable zerks along the driveline, right?

I'm just wondering. I do have the zerks, and keep up with the greasing of them pretty frequently. The 3 on the rear drive line at least 2 x year, the front 2 once / year. Wonder if that will prolong this from happening?

D
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Old 01-14-2011, 07:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Grease fittings look to be on the 4x4 models only. Yes, grease regularly, and it should be good for a long time. I do mine 2 or three times a year. I have over 180,000 KM on a 2006 DCV6, so far no issues. (knocks on wood for good measure)
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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In response to Dante's question:The truck is a '05 pre-runner(not 4x4).It had the factory joints that don't come with grease fittings.So far i have replaced all of them (3) with aftermarket units that do have the fittings.I expect them to last a lot longer now.Also I'm considering of getting some rubber boots to cover them from dirt/water etc.I've seem them in some industrial applications so I'll give it a try...
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Old 01-20-2011, 02:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Toyota replaced mine on a 05 under
warranty.Drive line warranty.
They sounded like a cat was hungup under there.
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