Well it could be a number of things, but I've seen some reports of a failed spiral cable. That's the one that connects to the steering wheel airbag.

You can check your code easily with a short jumper wire. Turn on the ignition first, then connect the 4 and 13 ports of the OBDII connecter under the left dash. The airbag light will flash out a 2-digit code, over and over again. Then google it, or look for the factory service manual, or report back.

4 and 13 are 4th from the left on the top and 4th from the right on the bottom.

 

You can check your code easily with a short jumper wire. Turn on the ignition first, then connect the 4 and 13 ports of the OBDII connecter under the left dash.

4 and 13 are 4th from the left on the top and 4th from the right on the bottom.

DTC CHECK / CLEAR
1. SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM DTC CHECK
(USING SST CHECK WIRE)
(a) Check the DTCs (Present DTCs).
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, and wait for approximately 60 seconds.
(2) Using SST, connect terminals TC and CG of the
DLC3.
SST 09843-18040
NOTICE:
Connect the terminals to the correct
positions to avoid a malfunction.
(b) Check the DTCs (Past DTCs).
(1) Using SST, connect terminals TC and CG of the
DLC3.
SST 09843-18040
NOTICE:
Connect the terminals to the correct
positions to avoid a malfunction.
(2) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, and wait for approximately 60 seconds.
(c) Read the DTCs.
(1) Read the blinking patterns of the DTCs.
• Normal system indication
The SRS warning light blinks twice per second.
• Past DTC indication
When any past DTCs are stored in the center airbag sensor assembly, the SRS warning light blinks only once per second.
• Present DTC indication
The first blinking indicates the first digit of a 2- digit DTC. The second blinking occurs after a 1.5-second pause to indicate the second
digit.
If there are more than one DTC, there is a 2.5- second pause after each one. After all the DTC are displayed, there is a 4.0-second pause, and​

they are repeated.

 

Thanks for the quick reply and the advice. I am going to use my buddy's scanner in a couple of days to see if I can get a code through that. If that doesn't work I will definitely try out your suggestion and let you know what I figure out. If I end up having to do the spiral cable I am going to tackle it myself and post a How-To thread for people in the future.

 

It takes a pretty good scanner to get non-drivetrain codes. If your buddy's produces the code, it's worth at least two beers, you'll want to keep that buddy.

A how-to on whatever repairs you end up doing would be awesome, good luck.

 

Hey guys, I just had my SRS light come on as well. I tried to jump the comp as stated above but when I do, the cruise, abs, and tire gauge light just start blinking, no numbers or codes are shown. Am I doing something wrong? Never had to jump a computer for codes before. I would really rather fix this myself rather than take it to the dealer for $500 bucks.


Thanks in advance.

 

Thanks man. I learned that the truck door has to be shut for it to throw the codes. Anyway, I am getting code "51". Sounds like my spiral cable is bad. Does anyone know of a good write-up for repairing this?

 

I am getting code "51". Sounds like my spiral cable is bad.

B1800/51 Short in Driver Side Squib Circuit
1. Instrument panel wire
2. Spiral cable
3. Steering pad (Driver side squib)
4. Center airbag sensor assembly​

​

​

​

​

B1801/51 Open in Driver Side Squib Circuit
Same as DTC No. B1800/51
B1802/51 Short to GND in Driver Side Squib Circuit
Same as DTC No. B1800/51
B1803/51 Short to B+ in Driver Side Squib Circuit​

Same as DTC No. B1800/51

 

I haven't seen a good writeup but here's basically how you do it:

1. Center the steering wheel
2. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and wait a few minutes for the airbag system to discharge
3. Pry open the little covers on each side of the steering wheel between the spokes
4. Loosen each torx screw beneath those covers until the ridge around each screw fits in the little groove in the screw head. T30 torx.
5. Pull off the steering wheel pad. Don't yank on the wires. Disconnect the ground and the airbag connectors. The airbag connectors have a center lock button that comes up, then you can pry up the connector. Place the pad face up out of harm's way.
6. Remove the steering wheel nut. Make match marks on the steering wheel and shaft so you can put them back lined up right, and pull the wheel with a puller. You might have to get creative to get a generic puller to work but there is always a way.
7. Remove the two screws that were underneath the steering wheel and remove the lower and upper plastic steering column covers
8. Disconnect the connectors and the spiral cable comes off. I think it's just on there with three tabs
9. You might have to do some spiral cable assembly and locking mechanism removal.
10. Make sure the turn signal is in neutral position. Connect the connectors, remembering to push in the center of the airbag connectors, then install the spiral cable and center it by gently rotating left until it gets hard, then rotating right about 2.5 turns, matching up the marks.
11. Install the steering column covers
12. Put on the steering wheel matched to your marks. Should still be centered. Torque to 37 ft lbs.
13. Connect the airbag connectors (push in centers) and fit in steering wheel pad. Be careful about pinching wires. Screw in torx screw to 78 in lbs. Pop on the little covers.
14. Connect battery.
15. See if it works.

 

Cool thanks for that. I will try to post pics when I do this.

 

Thanks for the useful info, caribe, is there a way to read past codes? My '05 Tacoma (2.7 liter, 96k miles) lit the srs light yesterday while I was out running errands. In about ten starts, it stayed on during eight of them, twice it didn't stay on. This morning the light won't stay on. I jumped the pins 4 and 13 and got a flashing light about once per second indicating a past code and was wondering if there was a way to retrieve it without a scanner.

 

It makes more sense to post this in this thread, so I'm duplicating:

If you turn on the ignition, wait a minute, and jump the pins, the Airbag light will flash out current codes. If you jump first, then turn on the ignition, it will flash out past (uncleared) codes after a minute.

 

Thanks again, code 51. Looks like a spiral cable replacement is in my future.

 

Air bag light

Good info regarding the air bag light staying on.

However, I have to think my light is staying on as a result of having disconnected the battery for several months.

Anybody have any other suggestions ?

sdarapaho on the rock

 

Thanks TurDonor.

Will I need to buy an actual tool called a "steering Wheel puller"?

And just b/c I'm paranoid: If I d/c the neg (-) terminal, wait 30 seconds (a minute?) for any capacitors to discharge, there is no way for the air bag or any squibs to detonate as long as I am simply disconnecting, correct?

thanks

G

 

Geoff, that's the simplest way. You can get one for under ten bucks. Here's one in action and is an excellent post on pulling the wheel on our trucks. Check out the fifth pic.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/106114-2nd-gen-clockspring-replacement-how.html

The only trick is to get the right size bolts to go in the holes. You can use regular bolts from the hardware store if your puller doesn't have the right threads.

You can also get a gear puller to work, if you already have one of those. Those are more of a pain to use.

Finally, you can make your own with three bolts, one nut and a plate, if you are really cheap or in a bind.

About the airbags: Disconnecting the battery and waiting is the proper procedure and how they are meant to be worked on. Respect but don't fear the airbag. (Don't stick your head over the thing when you are disconnecting or manipulating it. Store it where it won't do harm if it does go off. Stay away from electrical currents and don't get hit by lightning. Don't throw them in the fire. Etc.) I think of them the same way I think of a box of bullets, except they have an electrical rather than mechanical trigger.

Remember there are quite a few airbags out there and they are not often going off. My gf's dad dismantles cars for extra cash and has had hundreds in his hands without a problem, and he's not very careful. These are typically crashed cars so likely to have something messed up, too. Your pristine and well-maintained truck should be textbook.

 

Thanks for the info TurDonor. The airbag light is on in my truck dash and when doing a search came across this thread. I am pretty sure its the clock spring because my horn does not work at all either. If I had known what that light was when I bought the truck I would have offered a lower price.

 

i had an airbag light on for quite some time, did the jump trick, and found "51"

B0107 51 Short To Ground or Earth In P Airbag or Explosive Module Circuit

i see someone else who got that, and called it a spiral cable, now WTF is that. and can someone explain, please thanks.

ps. i dont understand why somthing considering everyones saftey, we are responsible to pay to fix somthing that should never be damaged, or whatnot, im minding my own business and a light turns on, and i should pay 500+ dollars to fix their mistake? fuck that.

 

I just looked up the spiral cable or otherwise clockspring deal... Everywhere I read says it will affect horn and cruise control, which mine still work. So what would be my problem??

 

Yes it still a very good chance that's the problem. If the thing breaks completely at once it would affect them all. But usually they just get a kink in the wires (its a flat wire harness rolled up inside a plastic housing) and start getting a bad connection when turning. The computer doesn't check for resistance on the horn or cruise wire so a temp short in those wires wouldn't show anything, but any lil glitch in the airbag wiring and light comes on no matter if it was a temp glitch,short or open (usually during the turning movement) or still open (completely broken).

 

Just to go off topic, I have more problems with newer cars and disconnecting the batteries (don't idle right after do to adaptive learning and idle control, customers complain of memory seats and radio, and European cans have even more problems) that during this process I never disconnect them. I also think its funny they tell you to do so. All the airbags are 2 wire(power and ground) that come from the computer. Since the computer is not setting the air bag off there is no power on the circuit anyways, let alone your unplugging them. Even when you have the air bag off they tell you never place it face down and treat it like a loaded gun (it can supposedly go off and become a projectial from static electricity) I'm not going to say some idiot has never got this to happen. But I sure as hell can't figure out how you set it off without 12 volt positive and ground. As a mechanic I think they just go a little overboard with safety instructions some times.

Not saying to ignore safety, just giving my experience. Please do what your comfortable with!

 

Even when you have the air bag off they tell you never place it face down and treat it like a loaded gun

During a new Toyota owners reception / info session at the dealer, they set off an airbag out in the service bay for everyone to see. It was definitely like a loaded gun. Everyone knew it was going off, and about half the group jumped when it did. It fired itself about 6 ft in the air, wires still attached to the battery kept it from going higher I think. Don't recall if it was face up or face down though.

 

Update from page one:
My SRS light is still on (since this Fall). I was back in Saskatchewan in Nov., where the local Toy dealer is still very small town & actually negotiated a diagnostic fee down to a reasonable amount (under $50)
I did this b/c if I'm going to order a multi-hundred $ part on-line I wanted to be sure that it was in fact going to fix the issue.

Their conclusion: Spiral Cable Toyota part # 8430604080. I have a Quote printed up to show it. And yes, my horn still works in spite of that. That would support those who say you can't use to horn working to exclude the spiral cable, in this truck anyway.

Best of all, the said they would be happy to install one IF I bring it in, sealed & with receipt that it is new. (their unit price to order in is $487.00; but even they know we can get that for less). This may be of interest to others who are not wanting to tackle this job...

However I still plan to replace my own when it warms up. It got really cold early Nov up here (although temporarily nice now). I somehow don't think I want to do this one with numb fingers....

G

 

There are around 13 wires in the spiral cable. 4 of those go with with airbags (terms 1 -4 on the steering wheel end) . The rest are horn, cruise and stereo and illumination for those. Thus, only 1 of 4 of 13 has to fail to be a problem. The rest might give you grief weirdly, ie cruise won't lock in at full stop right.

Also, the FSM claims the SRS has a back up power supply that keeps it working after power is removed. They recommend waiting 90 seconds after turning key off before working on system (Did not know that).

It doesn't say anything in the wiring diagram about the spiral cable trouble detection, and I don't have time to read the whole repair section right now.

 

Back up power is supplied by capacitors in the computer.

Testing the spiral cable can be done with an ohms meter to check resistance in and out, but doesn't always work do the fact we already know. It's usually not a complete open circuit. And if you do test it its best to test it on the car so you can spin the wheel and look for a open as its spinning. I almost always pop them open for kicks after to look inside. Only a few times can you even see a physical problem in the ribbon. But every time I thought it was bad It fixed my problem after it was replaced. So replace it where you can see a problem in the test or not.