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#1 Old 06-19-2011, 09:31 AM
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Air Vent Removal?

Has anyone had issues with the air blowing poorly out of the vent just left of the radio? My air is being blocked somehow and I need to pull it off to resolve the issue.

Thx.
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#2 Old 06-19-2011, 10:44 PM
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I don't have the manuals that show how the air ducts are controlled, but I would guess that they're controlled by cable from the knob on the dash. I'm wondering if the duct is actually plugged or if the flap that directs the air into (or not into) that duct is maybe not working . . . i.e. is the cable still attached at both ends?

Does anyone have a manual that shows how the air duct control works & maybe can shed some light on this?

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#3 Old 06-20-2011, 12:32 AM
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First off, lets start with the basics.

1 - the little roller dial under the vent, is it in the open or closed position. Compare it to the others in the dash. Are they all on the same location (full open). IF so, move on. If not, open it.

2 - You don't want to go disassembling the dash to fix the vents. Looking at the FSM, its like a 80+ step process, removing everything, including the parking brake, to fix the AC system. And most of those 80 steps are references to other parts in the manual, so each is a multi step process.


Good luck, hope for #1

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#4 Old 06-20-2011, 08:11 AM
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The Tacoma AC is all digital control of servo motors that open/close dampers as far as I am aware. The damper in question is buried very far back, *behind* the entire dash/instrument cluster/radio etc down by the heater / cooler core. RTFM is very correct, you do not go lightly into that forest (no references to Mr. Gump)

I've had my A/C control cluster off, to steal power from it to do the Lighted 4WD Selector Mod, and there are no cables, only wires.

Just another easy check - when was the last time the cabin air filter checked (assuming you have one i.e. 2006+)

G

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#5 Old 06-20-2011, 09:17 AM
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Are you comparing it with just the AC on? Or is the problem the same regardless of temp (try it at cold and at hot). I've seen threads where cold air with the AC only would only blow out the driver's side vent when the system needed to be recharged (other vents weren't cold). And is it the same in comparison to the other face vent even if you switch it to foot/face vs face only? Trying to eliminate both AC system and the air mix servo as a cause.

If it truly is something caught in there, have you installed a cabin air filter to prevent the debris from outside clogging the system? (From your join date, I'm guessing you could have an '05 which didn't come with a cabin filter)


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#6 Old 06-20-2011, 08:24 PM
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Slight correction to my post above. The little dial thing under the vent is a directional thing, not an open close thing.

On my other car it was open close. Really.

The two center vents near the radio are supposedly the closest to the cooling coils. The ones near the exterior windows have some longer ducting attached. Maybe you can borrow a fiber optic borescope to look through the vent, and see it you have a squirrel living in there, or all the extra socks that disappeared from your laundry have shown up in there maybe.

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#7 Old 06-20-2011, 10:02 PM
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^ just for my own edification... can you rent a fibre optic borescope from... machine shops? larger autoparts chains etc?

See, I live next door to the girls dorm..

(totally kidding about that last part)

But sorry to the OP I didn't notice your join date of 2005, so if you don't have an air filter, perhaps this is a debris issue, which *might* be actually resolvable without a major dash removal. If you can find offending thing.

To give you an idea of what I mean by you don't want to have to drill down to the heart of the A/C system, look at this post here:
How To: Install a USB Charger/Connection Port in a Factory Blank

See how much he had to remove, just to add a USB cable to a radio?

<shudder>

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#8 Old 06-21-2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dante's Taco View Post
^ just for my own edification... can you rent a fibre optic borescope from... machine shops? larger autoparts chains etc?
Amazon Amazon


This is probably all that you need to find an obstruction. Quick search didn't find anyone renting near me (not that that would help you anyway)

We use high end ones to look for piping defects at work, but they come with a $15k price tag. Most of the rentals I found are ~$300 for 3 days. Quick check of Al Gore's Interweb turns up a few places.

The low res cheapies will do most of what you need for this, but don't expect to crawl down exhaust manifolds looking for leaks (and finding them)

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#9 Old 06-21-2011, 08:44 AM
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How could I justify this purchase to myself????
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#10 Old 06-21-2011, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Taco View Post
How could I justify this purchase to myself????

You need to look for your / your wife's wedding ring, which you / she may have dropped into the wall while installing your latest entertainment center speakers.

You need to see if your (wife/ GF / Daughter) really dropped an earring into the shower drain.

You are trying to find a rattling noise inside the rear seat air vent (on the floor under the driver's seat) Might be a battery / marble / coin that slid inside there.

Its a really cool gadget that you don't know why you need it, but you will need it some day. And this way you won't have to wait for it.

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#11 Old 06-21-2011, 10:56 PM
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Hey, I wonder if could use this to inspect inside valve cover on the 1MZ-Fe 3.0 L Highlander engine.... (looking for sludge)

man that would rock if it would fit past the oil filler damper

G

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#12 Old 06-22-2011, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dante's Taco View Post
man that would rock if it would fit past the oil filler damper
Think the head on this one is too big. The high end ones come in 4mm dia. which may still be too big.

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#13 Old 06-22-2011, 01:07 AM
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OK, I kinda wondered if that would be the case. Sure would beat pulling a valve cover.

Oh well. Guess I'll do it the old way

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#14 Old 06-22-2011, 07:23 AM
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Dante, The front valve cover comes off easily and will have the worst sluge if you have any. The rear one takes a greater investment in time and patience. Also be prepared to do spark plugs , wires, PCV valve and grommet, spark plug tube seals, and maybe soak valve covers in 5 gal bucket of degeaser to clean before install. I also painted my wifes covers with black epoxy. Dante, check out the thread "Has anyone seafoamed their 4.0 yet" I am the last post in the thread and there is a picture of my wife's 3.0 at 125k miles.

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#15 Old 06-22-2011, 08:09 AM
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Thanks Wetone - found pic - wow you got that nice & clean!

for the OP: any news on... anything? Was yours a 2005 (so no cabin filter)?

G

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