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Old 02-10-2013, 10:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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08 driveshaft problems

I have a 2008 double cab v6 auto with 86K Mi. I am starting to get a "hum"/vibration at 47-50 mph and again at 65-70 mph. It is present under load or coasting even in neutral, 2wd and 4wd. I can feel it in the steering wheel. After lubeing the u joints with no effect , I took it into Toyota, they say it is the drive shaft and the replacement will cost $1400 !!! mostly parts ? I am not sold on rrplacing the drive shaft but I do understand possibly new u joints and center bearing.
Any ideas?

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Old 02-11-2013, 06:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd take it to a drive train specialty shop. Been a while since I needed serious drive-shaft work but $1,400 sounds very high to me. Unless it got bent or has somehow become badly rusted I can't imagine the need to replace the shaft itself.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You'll probably get better responses if you post in the right forum. Your 08 Taco doesn't have much of anything in common with a Cressida other than the Toyota logo. Fixed dat
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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08 driveshaft problems

Welcome to TN Bob. Did this all start when you got your new tires a couple of weeks ago? And out of curiosity, you said you got Michelin LTX tires...was it the M/S2 or AT2? (I read and responded to your post in the front diff vibe thread on TW if you're wondering)
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If the driveshaft is in fact the source and the dealership quoted only full replacement, you need to find a different place to get your truck serviced. The center support bearing and ujoints are serviceable parts. One way to confirm the source would be to remove the driveshaft and drive it with 4wd selected, see if the issue is still there. If you can feel it in the steering wheel, you may have a frt wheel bearing issue.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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All good advice above. A tire problem is typically described as a shake, shimmy, or shudder. Your hum/vibration sounds more like a driveline problem, usually a bad u-joint or carrier bearing as you stated. The dealership is taking the easy (and much more expensive) way out in wanting to replace the driveshaft. They don't deserve your business.

If you can, take it to an independent shop and put it on the lift with someone in the driver's seat. Have them start it, put it in gear, and slowly accelerate. Watch all the u-joints and the carrier bearing for any vibration.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Could also be front wheel bearings going out. My truck made a hum each time they failed, but it wasn't speed dependent. could definitely feel it in the steering wheel though, got worse turning one way or the other, but not both ways.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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A brand new Tom Wood's drive shaft was $450, and ellinamted the carrier bearing (which was the cause of many of the vibrations guy experienced after lifting).

You can always replace the carrier bearing, < $41 at Rock Auto, and will take you all of about 20 mins to replace, power tools about 5.
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Its been my experience that stealerships have a dismal record identifying any kind of vibration, rattle, or humming. All of the responses above are good. I would not throw that kind of money at it with no assurances.

I just had my rear u-joints replaced at a shop that specializes in drive shaft work. I sourced the OE Dana-Spicer u-joints, removed the eight bolts and took the drive shaft to them. I have the 1-piece shaft. Approx. $25 each end including labor to do this. I think with the tip it was a whopping $60.

And if you are just marginally ok doing your own work, I have also sourced the OE Dana-Spicer slip-yoke boot kits that include those neat OE Oetiker boot clamps for your pleasure. A big $15 ea. +sh. You can do the Ford clunking drive shaft TSB thing and repack the slip joints.

Good luck.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I vote for the independent shop route. On my last truck ('95 F-150 SuperCab), the original u-joints (no zerks) went bad at 80k miles. I pulled the whole assembly (two shafts plus center support bearing) and carried it to a local drivetrain shop. They replaced all three u-joints with new ones that included zerks, and dynamically re-balanced the assembly (tack welding washers in the right places to balance) for around $120. The center support bearing was fine, and lasted as long as I owned it (214k miles).
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