Whirring and whining noise, 2007 tacoma, v6, ~120k miles - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

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post #1 of 5 Old 04-20-2017, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Whirring and whining noise, 2007 tacoma, v6, ~120k miles

Cold weather brought with it some new sounds from my truck. It started out as an intermittent whirring noise, occasionally whiny, then it became more consistent, and is getting worse more quickly. I couldn't figure what it was by listening with the hood up, so, I brought it to my mechanic. They diagnosed it as a bad alternator (bad alternator bearings) and recommend replacement as well as a new belt. I'm going to call the dealer with my vin to SEE if I have the towing package tomorrow, but I don't see a tranny cooler. Will attempt the alternator install this weekend
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post #2 of 5 Old 04-20-2017, 11:38 PM
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Whirring and whining noise, 2007 tacoma, v6, ~120k miles

Easy way to check for towing package is to look for the oil cooler equipment. Just look for the unit with the two lines under the oil filter.
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post #3 of 5 Old 04-22-2017, 08:13 AM
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Also, could be one of the other bearings the belts wrap around. At least one of those is not a closed bearing that uses a rubber seal to keep out moisture but rather has a metal shield that frankly is not very water resistant. At the age and mileage of your rig its probably worth considering.
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post #4 of 5 Old 04-25-2017, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys for the helpful tips! It was indeed a 130 amp alternator, stock, and mine does have the oil cooler as pictured.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
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post #5 of 5 Old 04-25-2017, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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So here are some pictures and explanation of the alternator and belt replacement. I saw a video on YouTube where the guy said the alternator had to come out the top, so you have to remove the battery, so I removed my battery... Caution it may wipe out radio codes... *Either way, disconnect the negative battery cable at least.
*Disconnect the cable connections on the alternator itself and the cable harness mount bolts (pic ) (4 total, all 10mm).
*Loosen tension on the serpentine belt (see drawing of tensioner location, and turn counter clockwise with a 14mm deep socket on the end of a breaker bar), and pull the belt off the alternator.
*Unbolt the alternator (two 14mm bolts, one on top, one on bottom).
*Remove the alternator. I attempted to get the alternator out the top, but that proved too difficult. I looked under the wheel well and with easy removal of three fender/trim clips (use a trim fork or screw driver to pop the clips out, make sure you have some extras in case any break on removal), I was able to move a rather chintzy piece of (what looks and feels like tar papered) fabric out of the way on the inside of the wheel well where the alternator sits and pulled the alternator out the resulting opening very easily. I compared the pulleys on the old and new alternators, and found that the new one was slightly larger in diameter. With the help of an impact driver (Harbor freight $40 special from another repair job), I was able to swap pulleys.

Cost breakdown:
$90 mechanics diagnosis
$128 remanufactured alt (O'Reilly's)
$35 serpentine belt (O'Reilly's 3yr wrnty.)
$28 core

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