2013 Tacoma 2TR-FE M/T Cruise Control Install Guide - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

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post #1 of 2 Old 04-24-2017, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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2013 Tacoma 2TR-FE M/T Cruise Control Install Guide

WARNING! Read through this thread before buying parts to attempt this install. This guide is forthe2013 Tacoma 2.7L(2TR-FE)w/ Manual Transmission that is NOT PRE-WIRED. If you don't have this year exact model I donít know if it will work.

Parts List

84632-08021 Cruise control switch(Stalk)
45186-0C020-B1 Steering wheel cover
88280-14030 Clutch switch
84633-04020 Cruise control wire
2x 1/2" 10/32 screws
Ebay Kit: ď2009-2015 Tacoma Cruise harness for M/TĒ sold by ysfaelksca
Splice Connector

Tool List
T-30 Hex driver
10mm socket (long)
3" extention
14mm wrench
Socket wrench
Razor Knife
Linemans Pliers
Flat Head Precision Screwdriver
Flexible Claw Pick Up Tool
Trim Tool
A Lot of Patience

I will be referencing the Rostra Instructions(RI) for Part # 250-1836.

I cannot be responsible for any damages that may occur because of your negligence. Please be careful and have someone qaulified to do this if you are unable or unwilling. Verify that all parts have been reinstalled correctly to factory specifications and retorqued to proper specs.

For the first 9 steps I didnít take pictures so refer to:
DIY: OEM Cruise Control

Remove negative battery connection(10mm bolt) wait a few minutes before proceeding. While you wait block the back tires, make sure the parking brake is engaged(you will be engaging and disengaging the clutch so you canít count on that keeping the truck from moving).

Removing both cover plates on left and right side of steering wheel. Use the trim tool to avoid scratching the plastic.

Undo T-30 Hex bolts from left and right side.

Remove red and black connectors from the back of the airbag(keep you body clear encase the airbag deploys). Then remove black ground connection from the bottom of the air bag.

Remove ground wire at the white connector.

Attach new wire # 84633-04020 in place of old ground wire.

Place cruise control stalk into mount and fasten with two 1/2" 10/32 screws. Then connect wire(84633-04020) to connector on stalk.

Reconnect the 3(red, black and new ground) connectors to airbag and fasten bolts(per Toyota specs).

Reinstall trim pieces(the new one with the hole in it goes over the stalk) on sides.

I removed all the dash and trim piece before attempting any electrical work and stored them away because you are going to want all the room in the world. First on the drivers side remove door sill plate by pulling it straight up. Remove the foot rest and the plastic bolt underneath. Pull the trim piece that is located to the left of the foot rest underneath the dash off.

Pull the trim piece that covers the shaft of the parking brake. Remove the 10mm bolt on the bottom left side of the dash. Then using a flat head screwdriver remove the trim piece below the parking brake and remove the 10mm bolt underneath. Gently pull the lower dash off and remove the hood release switch, tire pressure reset, traction control switch and any other switch attached to the panel.

Turn the steering wheel and remove the screw that are hidden behind it. If the steering wheel doesnt turn, then put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position. Remove the plastic cover using the trim tool and be very careful because the plastic scratches if you look at it the wrong way.

Open the glove box and remove piston from the right side. Remove the glove box but make sure you spill out its entire contents on the floor. Clean up said spill.

On the steering column locate and disconnect the S8 connector(RI page 5, figure 16,17). Remove the connector and place the red wire(from eBay kit) in Pin 1 and the black wire in pin 2. Route the wires down the steering column and under the dash to the ECM, which is located behind the glove box on the right hand side. Use a flexible claw pickup tool to pull the wires behind the center of the dash. Leave the wires unconnected it gets attached later.


Loosen the 4 or 5(canít remember how many) 10mm bolts that hold the fuse panel. Move the fuse panel out of the way as much as possible but make sure you dont strain the wires.

Behind the fuse panel you will see the clutch stop bolt, note how far the bottom of the bolt sticks through. Loosen the stop with a 14mm wrench and remove. You can access it over the top of the fuse box or underneath it. Replace the stop bolt with the Clutch Stop Switch use the bolt to space it the same as the original stop bolt. Locate the clutch wiring connector by the bolt, it should be wrapped in electrical tape. Cut the wires that attach to factory installed clutch wire connector. I didnt take any pictures of this part so refer to RI page 6 for a picture of the stop bolt. However it wont tell you to cut the OEM terminal.

Remove the wires from the clutch wire connector. Loosen the tab on the top of the connector and the release the spring clip on the front of the terminal with a small screwdrive.


Remove the heat shrink from around connectors(this allows them to fit inside the connector) on both pieces of blue wire that came with the eBay kit.


Stick contacts that you removed the head shrink from in the connector. Make sure that the connectors are pushed all the way into the connector. If the fit loosely then apply hot glue at the back of the terminal to ensure they stay seated.


Attach the connector to the Clutch Switch. Route the short blue wire over the fuse box and run the long blue wire over to the ECM, which is behind the glove box on the right hand side.

Cut the spade connector off of the short blue wire. I did this because I couldnt find a T-Tap anywhere in my shop.

Using page 6 of the Rostra instructions locate the 1C connector and the light green wire in pin #14. Attach the splice connector to the light green wire and attach the short blue wire with it(the end that you cut the spade connector off of).


Go to the passengers side of the truck and use page 7 of the Rostra Instructions to attach to the ECM. You will use the guide for the E22 connector and the diagrams are FACE VIEW, so dont get confused by looking at the back of the connector. For the Cruise Switch pin #14 attach the red wire from the S8 connector and for Clutch Switch pin #9 use the long blue wire from the Clutch Switch. Reconnect the E22 connector. Its a tight fit inside the connector so zip tie the other wires out of your way. Make sure that you feel the connector lock into place.

Underneath the dash behind the glove box, attach the black wire(that was run with the red wire from the S8 connector) to the bolt to use as a ground.


Reinstall the glove box.

Reverse all the disassembly process on the fuse box and dash trim and put it back together.

Reattach the negative battery cable.

Take the truck out for a spin. Test that the cruise control functions properly. Make sure to test that when the press the clutch and the brake pedal are pressed the cruise disengages(if not you screwed up the wiring).
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post #2 of 2 Old 04-25-2017, 07:42 AM
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I just went through this with my 2013 with manual transmission. I left the green wire an the clutch switch connector since it was the same as the one as the instructions told me to add the T splice to and I cut off and spliced the other blue wire on the connector to the provided blue wire which went to the ECM. My biggest problem was my own stupidity/understanding of where the wires went into the ECM connector. It clearly states face view and I took that to mean from the wire side. It means the blank side where the pins go in so it is mirror image of what you are looking at. I finally ended up calling Rostra tech support and they immediately told me that putting the wires in the wrong side was why most folks had the problem so I am not the first. There are numbers on the "face" of the connectors but my old eyes had trouble finding them even with a magnifying glass. Works fine once I got it wired properly.

I spent way too much time trying to loosen the lock nut on the original clutch stop bolt. I should have just cut off a 14 mm or 9/16 open end wrench so it would turn. I never did find a clear path to route the wires under the dash to the ECM and finally ended up running them along a wire cable along the floor with tie wraps. I certainly do not understand why Toyota did not include the wires to the ECM from the clutch and cruise switch. I would seem like making different wire harnesses would be more expensive than just including the two extra wires.
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