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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: West Columbia, SC
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DIY Bed Rack (Kayak, Canoe, Etc.)
So I bought an Old Town Predator K 140 fishing/duck hunting kayak and needed a way to get it around in my DC short Bed. I don't have the cash for a nice roof rack or better yet, a bed rack, so I came up with this for around $55. I had some materials on hand (pool noodle, zip ties, PVC cleaner and glue), but I also had some leftover PVC when I was done. I figured that I definitely didn't want my 14' kayak hang out the back of my short bed so I came up with this. It held me on the rack (I'm 6'8", 250lbs) when I was testing the strength so it is actually durable, although maybe not so pretty....I'm going for function here! These plans are not to be sold and are considered to be my property to be freely distributed (aka I don't want to see them being sold on Ebay as a PDF, lol) and do this build at your own risk, I assume no resposibility for your actions/loss. Now that we got all of that out of the way....here we go.
Step 1: Cut (4) pieces of PVC
Step 2: Cut (4) pieces of PVC Step 3: Cut cross member pieces (the "X" section that braces the frames) came out to be 67-1/4 inches for the one that goes from the bottom of the tailgate to the top of the cab, while the other one (from the bottom of the cab to the top of the tailgate) measures 68 inches....this might have something to do with the angles, but my rack is level.
Step 4: End pieces that extend out that the end caps are attached to were cut (4) at 6 inches I think. Edit: This allows for the rack to lay in the bed when not is use, like so.....
Step 5: Put all the pieces together like I have them in the pics. Remember that you must put the pieces together to accomidate for the "X" section so the tailgate frame "top horizontal section" will be the same as the "bottom cab horizontal section"....for the tailgate bottom piece that has the rope run through it here, I just cut PVC until it fit evenly into the rear "T" fitting on both sides of the bed as shown below.
Step 6: Use a straight edge and a marker and after you have the rack dry fitted the way that you want it, mark a small straight line across the fittings and the pvc, so that when you glue the pieces, you know that you are getting it exactly in the right place
Step 7: Drill holes (4) for the "X" member sections that fit into the "T" fittings and insert the bolts, washers and wingnuts. At this point you are almost done...assuming that everything looks good, drill a hole through the center of the "X" made by the 2 pieces of PVC and insert the 6 inch bolt, washer and wingnut through there...this adds a lot of stability.
In the rear, I just ran rope inside the tube and tightened it down to the D rings....this is a simple idea but it is rock solid and quick to undo when I want to take down the rack.
'06 DC 4x4 SR5, Silver Streak Mica, Rear TSB, 5100's all around front @ 1.75, 265/70/16 on ENKI's, 18% tint, foglight mod, 2 Pioneer Premier sw841d 8" subs - custom boxes, Pioneer Premier Head Unit, Viper Paging Alarm System.
Last edited by tallpaul051579; 04-22-2009 at 11:17 AM.