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Old 01-29-2010, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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European Union '97 4runner Limited High Idle

I've had my '97 4Runner Limited for a couple months and I'm real happy with it. One thing buggin' me. When I start it in cold weather, The high idle stays up way too long and I don't like dropping it in gear when it's that high - 1200-1400 rpm. It takes about 10 minutes (idling) for the idle to come down to normal. I've looked at the Idle speed control but not sure to tell for sure if that's it. I would appreciate any help, thanks.
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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ascender,

Just have a question. Does your car run colder than normal? The temp guage should be just a tadd below half way when warm. The reason why I'm asking is if the engine coolant thermostat is not working properly then the engine will take longer to warm up thus giving you the high idle too long. Your high idle mught need to be adjusted. I don't have a manual for your rig but I'm sure there is someone that has one that can tell you how to adjust if it can be adjusted. Along with checking the warm up temp. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: High Idle

Running temp. is good. Warms up fast temperature wise. Wish I knew more about how that part works. I don't think it's adjustable. It does work as far as gradually lowering the idle but I know it should happen a lot sooner. Wondering about possible vacuum leak, temp sensor, or the Idle Air Control valve itself.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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ascender,

Ok, if the temp is fine, now go to a local parts store, they have the OBDII tester. They can run a diagnostic check of the computer to check for codes that won't turn on the CEL. (check engine light). Some codes will only be stored for troubleshooting purposes.
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's a thought.
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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one other thought. my radiator cap was bad, I didn't know it, but the truck rumbled after shutdown and the idle was ALWAYS up. 1100 commonly when warm. I had given up, till one morning the truck ran hot, no coolant. Over time, the bad cap had allowed the boiling to reduce the coolant level and it eventually got so low it ran hot. when I replaced the cap, of course flushing and refilling, not only does it not rumble (boiling) after shutdown, but the idle went down consistently to 900-950. I feel kinda stupid for not catching it sooner, but all's well that ends. maybe you have a faulty cap. I'd at least check.
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Cleaning

It's also been suggested to clean the IAC valve. While I think it's a good idea, I don't have high expectations that it will decrease the time it takes for the idle to settle to 'normal'. I'm just used to driving vehicles that idle down within a minute or two, while still not at operating temperature.
As far as the radiator cap, hey, it's 13 years old with 125k on it, it would be a good idea to either check it or just replace it.
Thanks and I'll post any updates.
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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ascender,

I have one more idea. Maybe your start circuit timer is staying on too long. Giving your rig a longer start mode therefor allowing it to high idle longer. There is a coolant temp sensor that controls the start circuit and maybe it is malfunctioning. This is not dash cluster information, it is sent only to the start timer. Just off of the top of my head I think the ''switch over" temp is around 140 deg.
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks Jetwhine. This is good stuff. I'm gonna locate that bugger via the service manual and look into changing it out. There's no shortage of sensors in these. Nothing happening this weekend though, we got serious snow goin on.
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ascender View Post
Thanks Jetwhine. This is good stuff. I'm gonna locate that bugger via the service manual and look into changing it out. There's no shortage of sensors in these. Nothing happening this weekend though, we got serious snow goin on.
Don't waste your money changing parts unless you are fairly certain of culprit. Measure the resistance of the water temperature sensor for ECU (EFI computer) and the cold start injector time switch, the other part located next to it.
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Old 02-06-2010, 01:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
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ascender,

If you have a factory service manual, there are tests for each component. Like sidney said don't just throw parts at it. I know sometimes it is easier that way but also costly. Just follow that manual and you should be able to eliminate the good parts and hopefully find the bad one.
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