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1st Generation (1995.52004) 1st generation Tacoma information and discussion.

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Old 06-01-2008, 01:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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slow start/long crank when hot

Hi-

This is intermittent, but I have been noticing that my 95.5 Tacoma 2.7L AT w/ 124,000 mi. has been taking a bit longer to turn over after it has been driven and than sat for a while. It fires, but takes a few seconds longer to engage and sometimes< I have to give it a second crank.

Any suggestions? I searched the forum and found info. on the TSB's for '03/04.

Thanks!
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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My '04 3.4L V6 Tacoma started doing that same thing when it had about 30K mi. It hasn't done it in several months though, so I haven't looked into it any further. The only leads I've had as to the solution is the fuel check valve on the fuel rail that lets the gas drain out of the rails sometimes. I've also heard of someone else having the same issue and there was a problem with the fuel pump wiring in the tank.
My issue was when I was driving it, then parked for about 30min-2hrs, once in a while it had to crank for about 30 sec till it started and then it sputtered for a couple seconds and then ran fine. It was doing this often for a little while, but it has been about 8K mi since the last time.
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks! Any other thoughts out there?
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Old 06-02-2008, 02:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Maggie, a couple things come to mind.

First of all a complete tune-up: distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires. Air filter and possibly fuel filter.

These are normal things that have to be done anyway. If you bought the truck and it was not taken care of, you would have to do these anyways, I think you have already done a lot of this.

Next step would be to try a fuel additive, do a search on Seafoam. I have never used it, but everyone swears by it.

If that doesn't work you might need to check your throttle body and IAC valve. There are some adjustments there that will affect idle speed and starting. I assume your vehicle is not throwing any codes.

BTW, my vehicle always cranks longer hot, but never fails to start or stalls. But cranking a little longer hot is normal, the idle speed is lower and the fuel mixture is not enriched as much, takes longer to "catch".

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Old 06-02-2008, 04:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hi C-n-D~

That makes sense about the longer crank when hot. I also think that the plugs, though new, may have gotten a bit fouled when the 02 sensor was not working.

I will check all of these things and not worry so much then!

Thanks again,
Maggie
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
Hmmm...
 
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Yeah, I'm not saying you don't have an issue, I think you do.

But do the things above first, then see.

Here is a link to a Seafoam tutorial on another website, like I said, a lot of people swear by it.

http://customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101166

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Old 07-04-2008, 05:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I started reading about seafoam and it sounds like it gets mixed reviews. There are some concerns about it messing up the cat. and 02 sensor, things I have recently thrown big money at!

What about the fuel pressure regulator? I found the same symptoms on another forum and it indicated this may be a common problem with these engines?

Tx,
Maggie
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Old 07-04-2008, 07:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Did you do all the other things above before we move on to throttle body, IAC valve, etc.?

I don't know if anyone here has any other ideas, Seafoam has only gotten good reviews where I've read about it. If you take it easy when you inject it, your cat should be fine. Like many things, in moderation it's OK. BTW, I use Techron, not Seafoam. You might try that instead, I've never had an issue with it.

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Old 07-04-2008, 09:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yep, did all that and had the throttle body cleaned, ( which took care of the lunging upon acceleration). I read the stuff about seafoam on another forum where Techron or a GM product was highly recommended.

Is it worth starting with either of these products in the gas tank only? Or is it best to take it through, from what I have read, the PVC valve and possibly the crank case? ( I'm only picking up the language as I go along).

Thanks~

Maggie
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Old 07-04-2008, 10:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiredandwired View Post
Is it worth starting with either of these products in the gas tank only? Or is it best to take it through, from what I have read, the PVC valve and possibly the crank case? ( I'm only picking up the language as I go along).

Thanks~

Maggie
Sure, but for best effect you put, I believe, half through the vacuum line to the brake booster, the other half in the tank.

If you have concerns regarding O2 sensor or cat, then start with treating only through the tank. Read the instructions on the can to get the correct ratio per gallons. The best effect, though, is feeding the stuff straight into the intake (Seafoam), I hear it makes a lot of smoke.

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=101166
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Old 07-04-2008, 10:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The link that CND provided for you is a great tutorial for SeaFoam.
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Old 07-07-2008, 07:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Almost looks like it's in my comfort zone! I'll try it in the tank first, until I'm due for an oil change.

I'm trying to pay attention to the symptoms and it seems that when the long crank time occurs, it also idles slightly rough while stopped in D. By that I mean that it vibrates and shakes a bit more than usual, as it always does that slightly~

Thanks
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Old 07-07-2008, 09:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The IAC valve and the TPS basically make up the idle circuit as long as nothing else is messed up.

The IAC valve can become sticky over time and doesn't perform it's function (regulate idle air to increase idle speed), also the TPS can become misadjusted affecting the signal to the truck to regulate idle.

I think the direct injected Seafoam might loosen up a stuck IAC valve, but don't know. I disassembled my throttle body completely, the IAC was on the bottom, and was able to clean the IAC valve directly.

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Old 07-08-2008, 08:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Chips touched on this slightly - older carbuerated cars experienced a thing called vapor lock. What happened was it would be hot outside, or in the engine bay, and the fuel would evaporate. Fuel injected cars dont typically have this problem but when it is hot enough the fuel pressure is too low. A little longer crank time is to be expected but yours seems too long. I am not sure what your compression is but the V6 models have a pretty high compression so that helps cause an extended crank time. Also look at BG 44K engine cleaner. We put that in our race cars all the time. You can pick it up at Napa here in happy valley, USA. You put it in the gas tank then fill the tank up. Expect to run a couple of tanks for the full effect to take. It will clean the entire fuel system and engine (valves, piston heads). Works fairly well. Haven't had any experience with seafoam.
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for both replies. I believe it has been hot outside when this long crank is happening. It doesn't seem to have anything to do with whether or not I run the air, but more to do with outside temp. It didn't happen at all in the colder weather.

My crank time really isn't too long...maybe 4-5 seconds, sometimes, but not often I'll give it a 2nd crank.

Is this helpful ? I keep trying to gather more data! I'll try the BG 44K as I'm getting really conflicting views on the seafoam. My truck is a 2.7L AT 4 cyl. w/ 125,000 mi. New 02 sensor, head gasket, fuel filter, cat. conv. and muffler etc...

Maggie
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