Power Steering Pump Replacement... - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st Generation (1995.52004) 1st generation Tacoma information and discussion.

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Old 11-13-2010, 09:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Power Steering Pump Replacement...

I just replaced the pump in my 98 3RZ Taco. Power steering is back, but the fluid in the system is still foamy from my attempt to flush before replacement; apparently the pump died while I was flushing and the pump foamed up the works. I thought the foam would settle out and just become air pockets in the high points of the system that could be bled out by turning the wheel and holding the lock for 5 seconds each way. That seems to have helped, but the pump is still noisy and I don't want to destroy this one. Can I bleed out the foam or should I flush the system with the new pump?

Also, is there a torque spec for the banjo fitting? I don't want to overtighten, but I don't want it to leak. The Chilton manual is little help here. And, is there a better manual I should get?

Thanks from a NuB.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What fluid are you using?
Where'd the new pump come from, brand??

When a pump fails, it leaves behind all its wear metals. You should install an inline filter like the Magnefine.

You might need to pull vacuum(mityvac) on the reservoir to clear out the air. But, it should burp itself, on its own, as long as the level is topped off.
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Old 11-14-2010, 01:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's a rebuilt pump; not sure of who did it. The fluid is "Parts Master" brand Dex/ Merc ATF. Both are from a local indy parts store I use. I'm going to do a flush today and see if it will purge the air out. Is there any reason I couldn't manually force fluid backwards from the return line, through the rack and up into the banjo fitting up at the resrvoir? Are there any check valves in the system to prevent this?

Thanks!
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No flush is needed.
I doubt that you can push ATF backwards through the systems. It flows in 1-direction for a reason.
Use a better ATF.
Have a 2nd person help you.
You should be able to flush the rack with running the vehicle.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well, I pulled the return line and tried to purge the system. Things went well in the beginning, but the sump kept running dry before I could cut the engine. The fluid is clear, but it is foaming. I'm going to wait a day to let the air rise out and try again.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Try 'without' running the engine. You should be able to disconnect the return line and hold in bucket, block of the reservoir so it doesn't leak out, have someone keep the reservoir topped off, while you crank the steering wheel slowing from 1 side to the other. This should empty all the old airy fluid int the bucket while drawing in air-free fluid.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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it worked!

I was skeptical at first, wondering how turning the wheel would help, but your suggestion to exercise the rack without the pump running worked! I didn't remove the return hose this time, and just worked the rack. The bubbles from the day before had purged themselves out when I got started, and after the first left - right run the reservoir was down to the screen. I topped it off, repeated the procedure 4 more times with no significant drop in level. I started the engine and let the pump run with the cap off for about 5 minutes to let any bubbles work their way out; I didn't try turning the steering wheel at all during this time. I watched the fluid level to be sure it hadn't dropped or become foamy before I capped it up and went for a test drive. Everything worked perfectly!

You da Man!
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