*conventional oil* 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, or 10w40? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

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View Poll Results: *conventional oil 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40 for non-oil burning 110k - corolla 99
0w30 conventional non-high mileage oil 0 0%
5w30 conventional non-high mileage oil 10 90.91%
10w30 conventional non-high mileage oil 1 9.09%
10w40 conventional non-high mileage oil 0 0%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1 of 9 Old 10-21-2009, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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*conventional oil* 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, or 10w40?

update#1: if possible, please note if your advice pertains to the type of weather (hot, cold, ice) and driving habit (city, mix, mostly freeway). I just realized the poll will be less accurate with these conditions, but I suppose your text will help.

update#2: personally, I live in San Francisco and it never freezes here nor does it get really hot, but I do mostly city driving.

****In regards ONLY to conventional motor oil (non high mileage oil) and assuming I change my motor oil every 3000 to 4000 miles along with a genuine toyota filter.**** I can't afford synthetics.

A salesperson recommended I use 10w30 for my corolla 99 that has 110k miles. What do you think? My engine does not burn oil. Manual says to use 5w30. Some people say using a thicker oil will give more protection for cars w/ high mileage as 5w30 is too thin and won't stick to the cylinder wall. In addition, they say 10w30 for my high mileage car will provide better compression as there's more seal. I would of course get synthetic if there's it gets cheap on rebates!

He then recommend 10w40 when my care gets really old.
What do you think? No flaming, just what you think or vote. I did search.


Last edited by gcorolla99; 10-21-2009 at 06:45 AM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 10-21-2009, 09:40 AM
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What have you been using in it thus far - assuming 5w-30? Stick with it then, the old thoughts of 5w-30 being too thin are completely baseless. 5w-30 has the same viscosity as 10w-30 when the engine reaches operating temperatures - hence the 30 weight. At lower temperatures (doesn't have to be subzero - even cold starts in general), the 5w-30 will flow faster than 10w-30 - so if you are talking about engine wear, which most wear starts on initial startups, 5w-30 is the better choice, protection wise.

10w-40 is a little heavy to run in the car. Unless you plan on tracking/racing the car exclusively (high heat, extreme pressures, etc.). For a daily driver in a wide variety of temperature ranges and still wanting to maintain good fuel economy - stick with the manufacturers recommendation of 5w-30 motor oils.

The formulation and design of current motor oils in terms of engine protection, deposit control, and viscosity/temperature stability - are a quantum leap ahead of oils made in the past several decades. Sounds like the salesperson is using some old school of thought on engines that had much less control and larger clearances than what the 1ZZ-FE is running.

I personally would run only a 5w-30 or 0w-30 in my cars. 0w-30 for the winter time (temps can occasionally dip below zero on my area or when I'm on travel out of state). On occasion, I will run 10w-30, but usually in cases where I ran out of my stock of oil and can't find any 5w-30 or 0w-30. The car will run fine on the 30-weights oils, but I tend to loose 5-10% in fuel economy if I run the 10w-30.

Bottom line, since your car is running fine and doesn't consume oil - just stick to what you've been doing. So far you've treated the engine right, and it has treated you well in return - no reason to change up what you are doing.

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post #3 of 9 Old 10-21-2009, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Fish and others for the vote.

I do like confirmation in relation to "5w-30 has the same viscosity as 10w-30 when the engine reaches operating temperatures - hence the 30 weigh" - since our cars warm up so fast, I'm surprised that it will lose 5-10% on fuel economy since they are of the same viscosity at operating temperature. The reason I bring this up is because I have about half a box of 10w40, so if 10w30 makes such a difference, I can't imagine what will 10w40 do to my car in terms of fuel economy. I thought about mixing in 2 quart of 10w40 and 2 quart of 5w30 so I can get rid of the extras...but in thinking about it, I could be losing far more money on gas by trying to mix the oils. I suppose I'll just give it away.
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post #4 of 9 Old 10-21-2009, 09:26 PM
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I use 5w-30 year round in New Jersey. We get 100+ degree temps with 100% humidity (not raining) and below freezing temps in the winter.

Ive been using normal castrol 5w-30 for 80K miles now, and no problems.*

2500 miles into my last oil change, checked my oil, and It hardly showed on the dipstick. Only 3.5 quarts of oil came out. Normally all 4 come out. (little less)

*This is the 1st time ive noticed any sort of oil burning, so Ill keep an eye out on it closer now. This current oil change I was rough on the car. I wnt on vacation in new hampshire, and then down to virginia. Both in the mountains with the car filled with camping gear.

I have also switched to the 2ZZ filter, which is maybe 1/4 inch taller, but same price.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-27-2016, 04:21 PM
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I realize this is an old thread, but who makes 0W-30 conventional?

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post #6 of 9 Old 01-27-2016, 05:02 PM
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I use 0-20.
Whatever the OEM oil cap says.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-27-2016, 05:52 PM
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There's more to the oil story than what is being brought up in this discussion. There are some hints at it, but....

As an engine gets "older" (by that I mean by use after new or a rebuild), components will wear. The suggested oil is the weight for 'most' environments, but that can change.

The W actually stands for 'Winter', not weight. The idea is that the oil has a different consistency when cold. Newer engines/manufacturers tend to recommend a 0 starting weight so that oil will move quickly when first started - as it was stated earlier, the most wear happens during initial startup (and then warmup).

However.... the more an engine wears during that startup, the tolerances can change. We're talking very small/minute amounts, but enough. A thinner oil may actually lose some pressure due to less tight tolerances - which can reduce the amount of oil running to the head (and it should be noted that oil pressure is usually based purely on - oil pumps ability to pump oil and the mains/rod bearings ability to hold pressure).

The next piece of the puzzle comes in with rings.... each piston has 3 rings - the top 2 rings are called "compression" rings, and the 3rd ring is actually a series of parts, but is the oil ring. The oil ring's job is to scrape the cylinder wall on downstroke removing oil - to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber. As time goes on, both the effectiveness of the oil ring and the cylinder wall condition can change, and thinner oil can get by. This is what 'burning oil' means (you can also burn it via PCV systems, but that's another discussion and the weight of oil really wouldn't matter much if you're blowing oil through the PCV in large amounts... and the last place oil can get into the combustion chamber is through the valves/valve guides/seals.... Toyotas are pretty common to lose valve guide seals to the point that you get a nice little blue puff when cold - because oil seeped past the valve guide seal while sitting and cold.... that would also be similar to wear of the engine).

So as an engine wears, it's still a good idea to consider a thicker oil as time goes on. Oil is also rated at certain 'levels' of standards. Once your car is a few years old, it's already behind in oil technology. This is what the SL, SM, SN (etc) rating/lettering means. Every oil on the market has to meet current standards (and when the standards are about to change it's common to see 2 oils on the shelf with different standards). As an example - my old IS300 I believe called for SG... and when I went to do the first oil change, SM and SN were on the shelf.... meaning they exceed the standards of the manufacturers.... so in many ways you can at that point toss out the notion that "Valvoline is better than the store brand" (and to be honest, almost all store brands are just repackaged/rebottled versions of name brand items anyways).

My ~340k miles AE95 I use 20w50. My 295k mile FZJ80 I use 10W40.... the FJ40 (with a late 70's 350sbc) will get 10W40 to start off with (and will watch it). The IS300 got 10W30 when I had it. I don't buy synthetic. I usually buy whatever is the cheapest on the shelf.

These choices are based on oil consumption (the amount burned between changes), leakage, and general behavior. Following exactly what the manufacturer wanted is a great idea when the car is still new.... but as time goes on, it's good to know what your car is doing and to make choices based on your vehicle.

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post #8 of 9 Old 01-30-2016, 09:34 PM
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Nobody. OP was misinformed. 0W30 is only available from a few manufacturers anyway.

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post #9 of 9 Old 01-31-2016, 10:34 PM
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Go with what the owner's manual says. Theres no reason to run 10w-30 anymore though. 5w-30 reduces startup engine wear and performs the same as 10w-30.

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