93 Toyota Pickup cv axle replacement suggestions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 03-09-2007, 11:01 PM
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93 Toyota Pickup cv axle replacement suggestions

Hello all,

I know there are a lot of posts on this subject, but I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents seeing as I just finished this job up. Soak all nuts/bolts for a night or two before with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster....things seems to loosen up better.

First I would replace the whole cv axle ($85 apiece after core charge), not just a boot replacement...less mess...less chance for repeat problems and much easier if you have the same setup I do on my 93 V6 Pickup DLX with ADD "live" hubs. Also, I bought new ones, not remanufactured. The new ones had a dust seal that didn't come on the remans from NAPA.

Second, follow the service manual directions...Haynes and FSM (there is a link to the FSM on this site somewhere) are about the same...neither suggest removing the axle hub assembly, loosening ball joints, shock absorber mounts, or some of the other suggestions I saw posted....that's not to say these aren't necessary on some applications.

Third, removal of the stabilizer bar links makes this job much easier, I'm not even sure if the job would be possible without removing them, something that wasn't in the manuals. I just cut them off and replaced with after-market ones with better poly-type bushings.

As I remember it the steps are somewhat like this. Lug nuts off, wheels removed, use jack stands and support frame, chock wheels, pry off dust cap (little dome shaped cap) on end of axle, remove bolt and washer, with ADD hubs remove the six cap nuts with washers from hub, tap a screw driver blade into the cone washers to loosen them a little then pull out screw driver, then cover them with a rag (they will go flying if you don't) and tap sharply on the edge of the hub adjacent to the cone washer...repeat till the cone washer pops out. Repeat this for all six cone washers. Hub should then slide off axle shaft. Remove snap ring and spacer next. Now the outer end of the cv axle should be loose in the axle hub assembly. Move to the inner side of the cv axle. This is where I had the most trouble...my experience may make it easier for someone else. Apply a propane torch to the nut (there are six total) that holds the cv axle to the differential side flange (tulip connection...it looks like a tulip I guess)....I held the torch on each of the nuts (one at time of course) for about 2 minutes. These nuts are threaded onto a bolt that is splined and pressed into the differential side of the connection so be sure you are trying to turn the nut and not the bolt because the bolt will not turn...I put a wrench on one of the bolt heads and turned one of the nuts till the wrench on the bolt head made contact with the frame and then I gave her all I had on the nut...they all came loose after working at it with a breaker bar for a while...good steady leveraged pressure, don't be shy about applying the heat again if they don't loosen on the first try...don't pound with a hammer...seems like my Toyota likes to snap off bolts when I have done this on other things. Once you have the six nuts off you can try to work the axle off the six studs and then try to get it out of the axle hub assembly on the other end...I got mine out this way by working the steering wheel back and forth and prying and swearing, the cap came off the inner end of the cx axle and the grease went all over the floor...doesn't matter cause you're replacing it anyway. A pry bar helps. They will come out if you work at it long enough. I think I would attempt to tap out the studs beforehand next time, but I didn't do it until I had to try to get the new cv axle in. So I got the old cv axles out, but could not force the new ones past the six studs...I did not want the cap seal to pop off the inner cv joint like it did on the old ones when I took them out. I then came across the idea of tapping some of the six studs out....I threaded a nut back onto the studs then rapped on them with a small hammer...not really hard just many times repeatedly until I had four out on each side...you could probably get away with only taking two out, but mine came out relatively easy....grease up the shaft on the new axle...the new cv axle slid into place easily....harldly any swearing once I figured this part out. I re-used the tapped out bolts...I just tapped them back in and threaded the nuts back on loosely...tighten them last. Go back to the other end of th cv axle that is now poking through the axle hub assembly. Put the spacer back on, then the snap ring...then the ADD hub...then the cone washers....then the regular flat washers and six cap nuts....torque all to specs....then the bolt and washer on the end of the axle...torque to spec....then go back to inner end and torque the six nuts to spec. Wheel back on and lug nuts and your ready to go....hope this helps someone out.

PurplePower.....

Big tires are like pecker pumps....for guys who can't git 'er done with the smaller size.....
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#2 Old 02-17-2010, 05:11 AM
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thanks

thanks!!!! great write up!
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#3 Old 02-21-2010, 03:39 PM
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I found it easier to remove the 4 bolts and nuts to the lower ball joint, that way you can push down on the lower arm to get the axle in and out. I also found it easier to bump the 6 nuts with an impact wrench to get the axle off the tulip
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#4 Old 02-21-2010, 05:58 PM
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Thanks for the tips!

I notice World Toyota Parts (online parts sales for a Texas-based owner of 13+ dealers around the country) sells axle/CV assemblies for $137. They are apparently remanned, but in my experience remanned parts from the dealer usually contain all needed parts. World Toyota is cheaper than 1sttoyotaparts.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214140

89 4x4 X-Cab V6
WARNING: I'm not a professional tech - use any advice at your own risk. Working on vehicles is risky: you can kill or maim yourself or damage your truck if you don't know what you are doing. It's your responsibility to get qualified help if you lack auto repair training/experience.
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