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Old 09-13-2003, 12:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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93 22RE Ticking Noise under load

Hey guys, new to the forum here. After reading through the forum it sounds like there are alot of knowledgable people here!

Anyway, I have had this ticking noise from my 93 ext cab pickup, 22RE for quite a while. It sounds like a metallic ticking that really you only hear at right around 2000 RPM. I thought maybe it was the exhaust manifold, gasket or doughnut, but I had it checked out and they said those were fine.

Lately now, I have been hearing more noise, ticking sounds, when accelerating under load, like up a hill.

I know that its due for a good tune up, but I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for things to look into.

Thanks for your time!

Chuck
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Old 09-14-2003, 09:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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When was the last time you had the valves adjusted? Also check your timing.
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Old 08-19-2007, 08:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah i would check your timing it should be at least 5 degrees btdc no more than 8degrees. also check your valves .008 intake .o10 exhaust. what octane gas do you use?
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Old 08-25-2007, 10:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck_Sirloin
Hey guys, new to the forum here. After reading through the forum it sounds like there are alot of knowledgable people here!

Anyway, I have had this ticking noise from my 93 ext cab pickup, 22RE for quite a while. It sounds like a metallic ticking that really you only hear at right around 2000 RPM. I thought maybe it was the exhaust manifold, gasket or doughnut, but I had it checked out and they said those were fine.

Lately now, I have been hearing more noise, ticking sounds, when accelerating under load, like up a hill.

I know that its due for a good tune up, but I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for things to look into.

Thanks for your time!

Chuck

i actually came onto the forum today because im having a very similar issue, a weird knocking/rattle right at 2k rpm's... for now the noise only occurs at the 2k rpm mark.

now i know to have the timing and valve adjustment checked (needs a professional tune up anyway, long overdue)
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Old 08-26-2007, 04:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Are you familiar with what "pinging" or preignition sounds like? It sort of sounds like a clicking under acceleration...
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Old 08-26-2007, 01:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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if it's only at 2000 rpms, I almost GUARANTEE it's your timing chain going south...
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by TNRabbit
if it's only at 2000 rpms, I almost GUARANTEE it's your timing chain going south...
I totally have to agree. I had the same ticking noise in my 91 truck. i thought it was pinging for pre-ignition and stuff so I changed spark plugs and such. Yet the ticking continued. I just recently found out what it was. Take a look here at what really happened.

I'm sorry, butt he easiest and non-costly way to figure it out is to open the valve cover and see for yourself. Its quite easy. Just 4 nuts hold the valve cover in place. And depending on how much emmisions related vacum lines you have, its probably just a couple more nuts and bolts to swing them out of the way.


You'd be surprised.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Does the noise occur if you rev to 2kRPM in neutral too?
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Old 08-28-2007, 05:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I Started Hearing Metallic Clicking Noise @2500, Sounded Like Something In The Fan Blade , Ended Be Timing Chain Slapping Cover
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Old 09-23-2007, 09:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Most engine wear on any engine occurs at startup with that said the R series Toyota engines such as the 18R,20R and 22R all use a timing chain which it's tension is supplied by hydraulically driven timing chain tensioner which has it's oil pressure build up few seconds after the engine has started therefore the timing chain rubs on the driver's side brown colored nylon/plastic timing chain dampener or guide and after so many miles (140-170 000 miles in the city with the average 4 starts per day) the driver's side guide breaks through causing the chain to rub on the timing chain cover for the first few seconds upon startup and when driving in 5th gear and letting off the gas.

Usually by this point the other timing components such as the camshaft sprocket,crankshaft sprocket and chain have their specs out of tolerance and hence must be replaced as well.The tensioner sometimes sticks due to dirt build up and other problems arise as well and must be replaced as well,all of those parts are sold in the aftermarket world as a "timing chain kit" which also include gaskets and a front oil crankshaft seal.Toyota on the other hand for some reason does not sell the parts as a kit but as individual parts which would cost around $400+ and from all of the reading I have done on many Toyota 4-Runner/pickup discussion sites I have come to the conclusion that many experienced off-roaders who cannot afford to buy all of the genuine Toyota timing parts instead buy the chain and tensioner from Toyota and the other parts from aftermarket as a kit but of course don't use the aftermarket chain or tensioner.

The best brand of aftermarket timing chain parts to use on the 20R & 22R series Toyota motors are:

http://www.engnbldr.com/ToyotaHotlicks.htm
http://www.22r.biz
http://www.rpmrons.com/toyotatiming.html
http://www.toyota-engine-parts.com
http://www.europeanautomotive.com

and if you choose to buy from Toyota these places have the best prices in the USA & probably the whole world:

http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html (10% shipping by Fed Ex or free shipping with $100 & over speak to Roger at 1-888-271-3948)
http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com (free shipping with $100 & up)
http://www.Toyotaparts4U.com
http://www.toyotaofplano.com

Other ways to check timing chain wear are:

http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm

you can also remove the valve cover and take a flashlight and see if the driver's side timing chain dampener or guide wore through.

You can bend 1 to all 8 valves and have timing cover eaten through if you wait and then coolant and oil mix together to give you butterflies in your stomach.You can do a fluid analysis on your engine oil by going to any Caterpillar and buying a fluid analysis kit for around $15-20 and taking a sample of your old oil.

Finally these sites explain the timing chain replacement well:

http://yotarepair.com/22R%20timingchain.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/doatimingchain


Make sure you use 50% Toyota long life red low silicates radiator coolant to reduce corrosion build up on the tiny water bypass passages found in the aluminum cylinder head and preferably 50% distilled water,rain water or snow water.

I would pour the mixed coolant & water combination into the thermostat hole until full then install new stat and stat cover/hose tighten up.Start the truck on an incline or car ramps and start pouring mixed coolant & water combo into radiatior almost to the neck wait for stat to open which is about 10 minutes of idling then turn your heater on to high and hot (as well as your back seat heater controls for those with 4-Runners) and rev the engine back and forth but not too high.Re-top the coolant and continue to do so for one or more stat cycles.

Finally turn the heater control from hot to cold repeatedly and from high to low and place about half mixed coolant & water into overflow bottle and place stat cap back on,take for a test drive.Once engine has cooled off check the rad level and overflow bottle.

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Old 10-04-2007, 10:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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timming chain had the same exact problem but mine was at 2100 rpm's chain guide was gone on driver side.
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Old 10-04-2007, 02:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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notice that he is talking about two different sounds. the first one is what everyone is talking about as the timing chain.

but the second one, the sounds you are hearing when going up hill under load are probably caused by detonation (what some are calling pre-ignition, though they are really two different phenomena) in the cylinders. detonation occurs in the cylinder after the spark plug fires due to excessive heat and pressure and the fuel not being able to resist detonation. the sound you hear is the engine ringing, and is commonly called ping or spark knock. here is a link with a lot of info on detonation and pre-ignition:

http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articl...ne/Detonation/

some things that could cause it:

1. engine timing advanced too far
2. lower octane fuels
3. faulty EGR valve leading to higher temps in the engine
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