Thanks again everyone for the input - and thanks engnbldr for the kit.
She runs much, much smoother now.
The tricks for keeping track of bolts worked great (cardboard outline and baggies).
The tricks to drop the oil pan worked great (drop crossmember, unbolt sway bar, unbolt idler arm).
Took ~6hrs on Sunday, ~4hrs on Monday, and <2 hrs on Tuesday last week...
Anyway, here's what I ended up replacing:
timing chain, chain tensioner, sprockets, guides, cover
oil & filter
plugs & wires
PCV valve & grommet
cap & rotor