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#16 Old 11-09-2007, 11:37 AM
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If you pull the head, then the oil pan is not necessary, although I'd do it anyways considering the seal at the bottom as well as coolant possibly dripping into the pan. So a nice good clean is good to have

Oh and if your timing chain guides were already broken, then the oil pan is a must because then you have to dig them out of the oil pan. You don't want to leave them in there. LOL!

And correct on the idler arm on passenger side with 3 bolts to drop the drag link. That and the sway bars had to be disconnected along with the cross member that goes straight across under the oil pan.

Finding and correcting the root cause of a failure is the difference between a parts changer and a technician.

Too many trucks I've been through so not going to list them all. But they have all been good to me and I'll keep buying old ones.

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#17 Old 11-11-2007, 07:42 PM
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got mine back together today. it took two and a half weekends. god im slow. i was only able to work weekends daylight hours only. i did remove the oilpan and head. i only had one bolt left over. it was one of the p/s bolts. i had my cardboard drawing and had seperate bags for bolts. i gues would have been better if i werent so darn slow. anyway goodluck.
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#18 Old 11-12-2007, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JHATTEN View Post
got mine back together today. it took two and a half weekends. god im slow. i was only able to work weekends daylight hours only. i did remove the oilpan and head. i only had one bolt left over. it was one of the p/s bolts. i had my cardboard drawing and had seperate bags for bolts. i gues would have been better if i werent so darn slow. anyway goodluck.
I'd bet that one 'extra' bolt for the power steering is the one under the distributor, and IIRC you have to pull the PS pump to access it. Or it's one of the 3 bolts that hold the PS bracket on.

That's a weird bit of bracketry between the PS bracket and extra brace. Seem it could have been done differently.

Two weekends isn't bad. Just look at it as $1200 saved and knowing you won't have to for another 4-5 years.

Slower is always better that wrong.
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#19 Old 11-12-2007, 08:49 PM
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yeah the brackets are a bit wierd. i had the ps pump bolted up and alternator on, then i noticed the y shaped bracket lying on the ground so i had to pull the pump again to put the bracket on..........well i'll never make that mistake again. i only hope i can help somebody the way everyone here has helped me. thanks
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#20 Old 11-19-2007, 05:53 PM
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Thanks for all the information guys. Got it mostly back together now. Had to run back to the parts store in the middle for new belts, hoses, plugs, wires, cap & rotor, valve cover gaskets...

Only big issue I had was that one of the little nuts holding on the fan assembly got rounded off...nightmare of a time getting that off of there.

So, as for the timing chain, and the guides:
Passenger side:


Driver's side (mostly in the oil pan):

Glad I went thru all this...

02 custom WS6 SOM...SOLD...and now Re-bought!
92 Toyota xcab 2wd, 22RE...stock...mostly
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#21 Old 11-19-2007, 07:03 PM
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Congrats on a job well done. Wow, I didn't have nearly that much left of the guides. The tensioner was down to the steel piston.



My favorite part of the whole process:

"All that is left is to drive your Toyota for another 100,000 trouble free miles."
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#22 Old 11-20-2007, 06:58 AM
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In case you or anyone else didn't know, I used 2 10mm (or was it 8mm?) wrenches. One to hold the fan assembly into place while the other to loosen the nut. Use the same process to tighten them as well.

Finding and correcting the root cause of a failure is the difference between a parts changer and a technician.

Too many trucks I've been through so not going to list them all. But they have all been good to me and I'll keep buying old ones.

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#23 Old 11-26-2007, 10:18 AM
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Thanks again everyone for the input - and thanks engnbldr for the kit. She runs much, much smoother now.

The tricks for keeping track of bolts worked great (cardboard outline and baggies).
The tricks to drop the oil pan worked great (drop crossmember, unbolt sway bar, unbolt idler arm).

Took ~6hrs on Sunday, ~4hrs on Monday, and <2 hrs on Tuesday last week...

Anyway, here's what I ended up replacing:
timing chain, chain tensioner, sprockets, guides, cover
water pump
oil pump
gaskets
oil & filter
coolant
hoses
belts
plugs & wires
PCV valve & grommet
cap & rotor

02 custom WS6 SOM...SOLD...and now Re-bought!
92 Toyota xcab 2wd, 22RE...stock...mostly
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#24 Old 11-27-2007, 08:23 AM
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Finding and correcting the root cause of a failure is the difference between a parts changer and a technician.

Too many trucks I've been through so not going to list them all. But they have all been good to me and I'll keep buying old ones.

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#25 Old 11-28-2007, 02:49 AM
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Well the timing belt on my has just jumped... and since me and my pops are working on our other 1989 4runner (we have 2 both 22re's) we decided to have some 1 else work on the timing belt while we fix the first one wich we dont know what is wrong... it got flooded in a creek and we can't find out what is wrong, anyways the timing belt, to fix it in labor and parts from a local guy 1500$-2000$ thats nuts... to do it our self, we would have to cherry pick it out and take it apart would cost time wich we dont got... lol, so then we call up a grease monkey freind who said he will do it for 150$ labor and the parts are free cuase he has them, he said 150$ and a 24 pack of bud will do it. So yea... got lucky... =D, dam timing belts... MAKE SURE YOUR OIL IS ALWAYS GOOD AND YOUR PUMP AINT BROKEN, i learned the hard way...
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#26 Old 11-28-2007, 10:38 PM
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theres nothing wrong with saving money, thats why I replaced my timing CHAIN instead of taking it to the dealer. but do you really want a drunk working on your truck. did you say he is going to supply the parts for free.
things that are to good to be true usually are.
good luck man, i hope everything turns out good 4 u
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#27 Old 11-29-2007, 01:08 AM
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I've known him for years
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