93 22re coolant leak - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 06-16-2008, 07:42 PM
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93 22re coolant leak

I have a coolant leak coming from somewhere in the back of the engine on my 1993 4x4 pickup 22re with standard trans. It leaks about a drop every couple seconds only when the truck and running and for a short time after it is shut off. It drips off the bottom of the bell housing. It does not leak while sitting over a period of time. I looked as best as I can but very hard to see whats back there. Could it be head gasket or metal tube that runs across the back/?? etc...All replies appreciated..
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#2 Old 06-17-2008, 02:29 PM
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USA leak

you need to put a pressure gauge on the radiator and pump it up 3 to 5 pounds above system pressure.if you have access to an air supply use that first to blow everything down in back of the head area.use a mirror (womans compact will do) but they do sell mirrors that have flexible ends made for this purpose.with the system pumped up start looking for leaks with the mirror a good strong drop light will help you.there is a rear plate on the head it is a bypass plate that might be possibly leaking,when i overhauled the engine on my 85 the bypass part inside of that plate was plugged.just look carefully around that area and also all along the edge of the head where the head and block meet.it is possible that the head gasket is leaking and water is running from the side back towards the rear of the engine.the pressure gauge will be a great help in that it sounds like you are getting a leak until the pressure of the system is bleeds off.if you have a blown head gasket it is much easier to test a cool engine poking your hands in and around the exhaust and head area.never open a radiator cap with the engine hot,and if you ever must do that always use a good sized towel to hold the cap and extreme caution.i know this warning sounds dumb but i have seen people get scalded trying to take the radiator cap off when the engine is hot.
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#3 Old 06-17-2008, 05:03 PM
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Take it too a shop for diagnosis. There are just too many places the coolant could be leaking (small coolant hoses under the intake manifold, small heater hoses near the firewall, gaskets on metal coolant tubes, and also possibly an external cylinder head gasket leak.

Then take it to another shop to verify the first shop was honest and competent (unless the first shop can show you exactly where the leak is coming from)

Leakage problems like this can be avoided by using Toyota coolant and distilled water in the cooling system instead of aftermarket coolants that don't adequately protect against aluminum corrosion. The factory spent an extra $5 per truck to install the more expensive Toyota coolant because the factory engineers know it's needed to prevent trouble years down the road.
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#4 Old 06-19-2008, 03:43 PM
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Thanks for the info. I did replace the radiator last fall and did use toyota coolant. The cap was new with the radiator. I put in a timing chain and guides this spring and wound up with a very small oil leak where the head meets the timing cover gasket. I figured I was good to go for another 250000 but now this coolant leak. I will definitely try the mirror with the bright light again..I did that before I posted here but I may have overlooked something. It only leaks when the engine is under pressure and it was pretty warm hanging over the engine looking for the leak. I may have rushed. I will let you know what I find out with this. Thanks again for the replies...
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#5 Old 07-08-2008, 02:58 PM
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So did we find the leak. Have the same problem. It's that back plate that hole the tubes behind the head. It's a bear to get too, but it's probably your problem as well. Let us know!




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#6 Old 02-28-2009, 12:55 AM
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Didi you find the fix?

Hi bonanza,


I have the same issue with the leak behind the engine. Did you get to fix the problem? I've searched around I was told its leaking from the back plate. let me know.

Thanks Don
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#7 Old 04-13-2009, 09:30 PM
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Coolant leaking from 22R head rear plate

I have coolant leaking out from under the lower bolt on the passenger side of the rear plate after replacing the HG. (This is the bolt that holds the air injection tubes to the rear plate.) The plate gasket is a high temperature type that looks like lead so I didn't think to put RTV on it when I installed the plate. The gasket is the same type as for the air injection tube flanges. But now that I know the middle of the plate is the coolant, I should have known.

I removed the valve cover, air injection tubes, rear engine hanger and ground wire, and coolant, vacuum, and fuel lines that were in the way. I also removed the evap cannister and tucked it down out of the way. (I think the evap cannister made a big difference. I should have removed it for the HG job.) It was then pretty easy to remove the rear plate. All this in about an hour.

I plan to dry off gasket and plate and put high temp RTV on both sides of the gasket before re-installing it. These are my questions before going forward:
1. Do I put the high temp RTV on the gasket or something else?
2. Do I need to remove the heater line that goes from below the intake manifold to the drivers side of the block? (I had to come in before I could investigate the clearance.)
3. Should I reuse the gaskets or am I asking for trouble? They were just on for a couple days. I only ran the engine a minute or two and the exhaust manifold barely got warm before I found the leak.

Does anyone have any suggestions or cautions to make this job easier and most successful?

To the guy who posted in February; how did your job go?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Ted
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#8 Old 05-08-2009, 03:18 AM
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I'm having a similar problem. My truck's leaking from somewhere other than the front of engine compartment. I just noticed the leak this morning on my coffee and cig stop before work so I haven't had a chance to really look for it. I did notice some dampness just above the starter near the bellhousing. I did a quick look at the heater hoses in that area and didn't see anything leaking. Where's this rear plate everyone's talking about??
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#9 Old 05-08-2009, 11:46 AM
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That rear plate is attached to the rear of the head. It has 5 (I think) 12mm bolts. The two lower bolts also hold those cross-over tubes to it.

I would not hesitate to reuse the old gasket if it's in good shape. But I also use rtv, and I've never had a problem. Yes, you may have to do something to those tubes to get them loose enough to pull away from the head far enough to get that plate off and back on again.

I found that taking the valve cover off gave me more room to get back there. It's a tight fit, and can be quite frustrating.

Don't apply too much rtv. Only a very thin film on bother sides will be plenty. I used a Q-tip to apply it with. Worked great.
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#10 Old 05-08-2009, 10:31 PM
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thanks for the reply but I think I found my leak. I looked under the hood and found coolant on top of my oil filter. Seems to be leaking from the water bypass hose or from the port going into the intake manifold (22R). I'm hoping it's the hose!
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#11 Old 10-30-2009, 08:18 PM
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I bought a 95 4x4 with the 22RE several months ago. I drove it 20 miles home and it sat all summer. It ran fine with no leaks, it just needed a clutch. Well I finally got done with the clutch and started it up. Runs fine, but now there is a coolant leak. It is leaking on the passenger side front of the motor. It looks like it is coming from the bypass tube mating surface (???). Not really sure what to do, or if that is really where it is coming from. It leaks while the engine is running and for a little while after shutdown, but not while it sits. Stays at temperature when running at operating temp so I don't think it's the head gasket. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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#12 Old 11-05-2009, 05:31 PM
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There is a small hose connected to the underside of the throttle body. It is connected to the intake manifold on the other end. The hose is pretty hard to see because it is buried underneath the TB.
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#13 Old 11-06-2009, 12:37 PM
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If its leaking from the coolant bypass tube then the seal is bad.

IIRC where the coolant bypass tubes bolt to the timing cover is all one gasket.

When I did my tc I ripped the gasket there and it leaked. So I dried everything off (after I pull the bypass tube out of the way). Applied a very very light coat of toyota FIPG to both surfaces, snugged the bolts up, waited for 10 mins then did my final torque. Months later... no leak!

1991 Pickup - 3vze - 4x4 - SR5 - 5sp- 270k.
Currently in street DD mode

www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486
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