22re hesitation mystery clues

[down the river]

Still trying to figure out what is causing the intermittent hesitation I get in my 93 4x4 22re. It never happens when the engine is cold, only after it has been running a while. When it happens, it feels like the engine only has about 50 percent power. It goes away after a minute or two. It also seemed to first start happening after I would fill up the gas tank. Does this point to the O2 sensor?

Here is the new clue: If I run the engine at idle for about 10 minutes the rpms will drop slightly. If I open the throttle, the engine will sputter and cough and backfire out the intake before racing back to normal.

I've already changed out the EGR valve, and done the wires, plugs, rotor, cap, and air filter.

I'm thinking O2 sensor.....

I'd sure appreciate any ideas or suggestions anyone has...

Thanks

[mp101v]

try the cat converter. I was having the same problem. I took off the cat, and no more hesitation.

[koco1]

You should run the diagnostic and pull the trouble codes by shorting the connectors in the diagnostic plug. The whole procedure is documented online: http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

[D'mon]

I tried the diagnostic also on my '88 4Runner (standard trans, no a/c, 22RE). It came up with a 51 errror which is the "Switch Signal" code. To elaborate from my manual, this means that either the Idle, Neutral Start Switch or the A/c is missing. What does this mean? And which fuse is the EFI fuse, which is supposed to be pulled for at least 30 seconds to clear the memory? (Sorry, I'm missing the cover plate for my fuse panel)

Help!

D'mon

[koco1]

Your idle switch is probably cracked open like mine was. Someone turned the throttle plate adjuster on the throttle body to turn up the idle. When I cleaned the throttle plate the idle shot up to 2000 or so. When your foot is off the gas the throttle plate should be fully closed.

To clear the ECU , just pull the batery ground for like 5 min. What is the problem you are having anyhow? Why didn't you start a new thread?

[D'mon]

I did post on my own, under "Tapping Engine noise - Help!". It was suggested to me that it may be the bad knock sender.....by you! (LOL)

Thought the diagnostic might shed more light. Besides, it's neat, have to play. I guess a 16 year old truck (which has probably been abused by previous owners) is entitled to a few quirks. The only thing is by the time I'm satisfied with it's performance, it will be better than showroom-new. It's just the way I am.

BTW: Thanks Koco1, you always seem to be helpful to us newbies.

D'mon

[91toyindiana]

i tried my diagnosics and when i tried it with engine off it found nothing.. i then turned the truck on running and its stopped and gave me a 5 flash and 1 then would do its normal flashing unless i gave it gas then it would do the 5 flash then 1.. but im not sure if is telling me anything since i only get this error code when its running...cause i guess ur supposed to do it not running anyone know? my truck is running rough after installing a used distributor it ran fine before the distributor went bad and did a tune up also new plugs cap rotor button wires.. but hard to start when cold gotta give it gas now to start and backfires somewhat out of exhaust and is missing out...im hoping its not the used distributor i put on there cause its cost me 150 for a used one... thanks

[Sidney]

The oxygen sensor is replaced for free in the USA only when the vehicle reaches it's first 80 000 miles regardless of the age & number of owners as stated in the factory owner's manual in the maintenance section,some Toyota dealerships are reluctant to replace it for free if that happens contact the Toyota regional head office for your region where they will give your local dealership 48 hours to comply.
On average the oxygen sensors should be replaced every 6 years or 100 000 miles or so which ever comes first.
Symptons of a bad o2 sensor are poor gas mileage,hesistation in acceleration and worse emmissions,the 02 sensor is designed to function once the vehicle has warmed up which is about after 10 minutes where the thermostat begins to open then the vehicles ECU system enters what they call a "closed loop system" then the exhaust manifold's temperature reaches 400 degree Ferenheit (I think)that's where the sensor starts to do it's job,many folks think that the o2 sensor is bad but an exhaust leak can cause excess oxygen to enter the exhaust system thereby fooling the sensor into thinking there is too much oxygen,there are other problems that could cause it to give false reading such as a vaccuum leak.

If you discover that the o2 sensor is bad and it is not under warranty then from my/others experience/research purchase an o2 sensor in the following order:

1)Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso)
2)Denso aftermarket (Same as original but sold aftermarket)
3)NTK (oxygen sensor division of NGK)

Available at:
http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/part_number.html
(they have the lowest prices in the USA & probably the whole world)
http://www.densoaftermarket.com
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com

Note:Toyota has an organized numbering system which dictates that the first 6 digits of their 10 digit (5 digits-5 digits)part numbers represents the part # and the remaining 4 digits dictate country of origin,color code,trim package and so on not in that order as shown in the free Toyota EPC (electronic parts catalog) download at:

http://www.yankeetoys.org/docs.htm
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/epc.htm
http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/technical/epc.htm
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/download_links.htm
http://www.speedtoys.com/%7Earnout/
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/epc/
http://membres.lycos.fr/doc4toy4u/setup98_EPC_TOYOTA.zip

Here is a post fellow poster (Todd) who posted it on another 4-Runner/Pickup discussion site about 2 years ago:

"There is a newer version of the EPC available for download.Similar in size to the older version (254MB and 220MB zipped files)I have them on my personal FTP server (not always running), and they are also on another FTP server.

Address and login for mine:

151.203.109.45 Port 21
Login: t4x4pickup
Password: t4x4pickup

Address and login for the other (usually running 24/7):

ftp.lawvision.net

User: upload
Pass: upload

Apparently they cover 1988 and up vehicles (I haven't unzipped mine yet).

Feel free to upload and download on mine.

Enjoy!
Todd E:zoddoo@hotmail.com"

For version 1/2002 the passwords are:

Europe 02052311
General 02032511
U.S.A. 02022608
Japan 02071608

Here’s the codes for the 01/2002 disks:

Europe 02022004
General 02022212
U.S.A. 02022608
Japan 01121209

Here are online Russian dealerships that place the free Toyota EPC catalog online to be viewed only:

http://catalog.exist.ru/toyota
http://www.elcats.ru/toyota
http://www.japancats.ru/toyota/

These are text/site language translation softwares:

http://babelfish.altavista.com/tr
http://www.translate.ru/eng/srvurl.asp
http://www.google.com/language_tools
http://www.tranexp.com:2000/InterTran
http://www.zappmedia.com/services/onlinetranslators/index.html
http://freetranslation.com/web.htm[/url]
http://dictionary.reference.com/translate/text.html

NGK has a powerfull oxygen cross reference software which cross references their different part #'s into either a single,double,triple or a quad wire o2 sensors so you may find 10 or so different part #'s for your 94 pickup and all you have to do is plug those part #'s into:

http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/part_number.html

and see which one is cheaper I think you will find one for as low as $60.The NGK cross reference software is:

http://home.att.net/~ngksparkplugs/w...ome.html-.html
before you replace the oxygen sensor soak the 14 mm brass nuts with any of these deep penetrating oils several times for several hours:

1)PB Blaster
2)Liquid Wrench
3)Kroil Oil
4)Aero Kroil & Sili Kroil
5)Toyota Rust Penetrant or High Performance Penetrating lube
6)Rust Check

the first ones being the best,also if you decide you need new ones here is the Toyota part for the exhaust manifold (brass)nuts # 90179-10175 (14 mm socket)

Oh yeah,I bought a NTK (NGK) oxygen sensor for my 85 4-Runner and it came with a gasket and a genuine made in Japan black plastic tie wrap I don't know if the Toyota or Denso aftermarket ones come with a gasket but ask them before you buy them.

To clean the throttle body remove the air intake hose and examine the intake and throttle body for excessive carbon build if found then buy a can of throttle body cleaner labeled "safe on oxygen sensors,TPS's and catalytic converters" and make sure your engine is fully warmed up prior to using as when the throttle body is hot it dissolves the carbon easily and quickly.The labels usually specify to park the vehicle at groung level (0 degrees,no inclination) and have the engine running but I disagree I instead park the vehicle on a hill facing down and shut the engine off and hold a rag below the lip of the throttle body and poor the stuff and use a tooth brush.

Sidney
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 241 000 KM

[91toyindiana]

sidney i hope your copy n paste alot of this cause you do alot of work on here helping people with alot of informatoin thats helpful....my fingers would be tired.

[Sidney]

Originally posted by 91toyindiana
sidney i hope your copy n paste alot of this cause you do alot of work on here helping people with alot of informatoin thats helpful....my fingers would be tired.

Yes some of the info is a copy and paste from my earlier posts here or the 34 or so other 4-Runner/pickup discussion sites.

Sidney
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 241 000 KM

[UVBNDRVN]

hey new to this entire Toyota thing, its actually my daily driver. I have a hesitation problem sometimes usually when its damp, I changed plug wires cap button. the engine light is on, changed the o2. and it has a bad noise from the bottom end sounds like tony the tiger growling.

Where whould I find the knock sensor or sender??? what else could it be?? any ideas. need to try to fix it by the time snow hits.

I think the bottom end is pooped in it so I'm getting another one but I would like to get rid of the light.

it turns on after like 2 mins of driving, when its at idle its fine once you move thats when it turns on.

[Sidney]

Originally Posted by UVBNDRVN

hey new to this entire Toyota thing, its actually my daily driver. I have a hesitation problem sometimes usually when its damp, I changed plug wires cap button. the engine light is on, changed the o2. and it has a bad noise from the bottom end sounds like tony the tiger growling.

Where whould I find the knock sensor or sender??? what else could it be?? any ideas. need to try to fix it by the time snow hits.

I think the bottom end is pooped in it so I'm getting another one but I would like to get rid of the light.

it turns on after like 2 mins of driving, when its at idle its fine once you move thats when it turns on.

On the 22R-E the knock sensor wire harness is located behind the oil filter,check the wire harness inside the passenger side going into the ECU.

About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes to see if a fault is registered.
To pull the ECU codes:
All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner,the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:
autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-36.htm
autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-53.htm
autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-71.htm
autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-90.htm
www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote12.htm
lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...ct/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/t...tml#obtaincode
www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
members.igateway.net/~pscott/enginecodes.html
http://www.autobook.co.kr/data_links...uble_codes.htm
www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...E/Page0096.htm
www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm
www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm

Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.

Sidney
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:sidneybek@yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 246 000 KM

[UVBNDRVN]

SO I replaced the os sensor, after testing the ECU with the help of Sidney , then we checked the codes and it came up with code 25 air fuel ratio LEAN.
SO i got the o2 replaced with a bosh one that you have to splice, and the light still comes on, with the same code. Any other Ideas what it could be??? I also found this

25

AIR/FUEL RATIO LEAN INDICATOR--LEAN SIGNAL SENT TO ECU FROM O2 SENSOR
--INJECTOR FAULT(S)
--FUEL PRESSURE
--OXYGEN SENSOR
--AIRFLOW METER OR MAP SENSOR
--IGNITION
--ECU

Could it be any of these???

[qsd-dan]

When I had a lean condition, I pulled every single vacuum hose and inspected them. I ended up finding several vacuum leaks. Fixing the leaks helped immensely, but the lean condition was still there. After inspecting and testing every single sensor (all in spec), I ended up pulling the injectors and sent them to be ultra sonically cleaned. This made a world of difference and solved my lean issue as well as my crappy idle and somewhat poor fuel mileage.

So check all vacuum hoses and test all sensors. If everything is in spec, it's probably dirty injectors. All the fuel injector cleaners in the world won't get them completely cleaned (believe me, I tried EVERY one). Get them ultra sonically cleaned.

[james_ususus]

Originally Posted by down the river

Still trying to figure out what is causing the intermittent hesitation I get in my 93 4x4 22re. It never happens when the engine is cold, only after it has been running a while. When it happens, it feels like the engine only has about 50 percent power. It goes away after a minute or two. It also seemed to first start happening after I would fill up the gas tank. Does this point to the O2 sensor?

Here is the new clue: If I run the engine at idle for about 10 minutes the rpms will drop slightly. If I open the throttle, the engine will sputter and cough and backfire out the intake before racing back to normal.

I've already changed out the EGR valve, and done the wires, plugs, rotor, cap, and air filter.

I'm thinking O2 sensor.....

I'd sure appreciate any ideas or suggestions anyone has...

Thanks

i had the same problem with mine exspecialy when it was damp out the problem was there was a leak around the front window seal on the passengers side and it was geting the computer compartment damp also happend alot if it would rain and would make it not have full power and then all of a suden the power would kick in and it would run fine